Today I turned my car off and the key wouldn't get released from the ignition. It rotates in the core, goes from Lock to Acc to On to Start just fine. When I turn it to Lock (Off) I can't pull the key out more than 1/8" before it just stops. I got it out by turning to Acc a few times and carefully turning to Lock, and after a few minutes it came out. But after driving home, it happened again and now I can't get it out. I tried starting the car, putting in gear, putting back in Park, then turning off and it's still not getting released. I couldn't find a lock over-ride to release the key, so it's stuck in my ignition.
Joelbear5
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have you had any issues since bypassing the ignition safety lock?
I had the same thing happen on my 2014 Forester and found the same solution works for me
2017 Desert Khaki | Sparco Terra's | Yokohama G015's | Sports Mesh Grill
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Count me in as one of the lucky few who cannot get his key out unless I slam the shifter into Park. I'm going to try what VitaminRAD did tomorrow. No way am I willing to pay ~$500 to get this fixed. Looking for temporary fixes until the rumored 2021 2.5L comes out.
my ‘16 crosstrek, with just under 64000 km and 40 months, so it’s out of the basic (60k/36mth) warranty, started doing this. i checked with the dealer service department, and was told that the shifter isn’t covered under the powertrain warranty. yammv.
“warranty good!”
this isn’t a problem with the steering column lock binding - that’s a very common problem with all brands.
this is the (electric) interlock that prevents the key from being removed, unless the shifter is in “park”. either the switch or the solenoid isn’t functioning properly. jiggling the gear selector usually releases the key.
this is the (electric) interlock that prevents the key from being removed, unless the shifter is in “park”. either the switch or the solenoid isn’t functioning properly. jiggling the gear selector usually releases the key.
my dealer won’t do it under warranty (i’m past the basic vehicle warranty and they won’t call it powertrain or extended).
the part itself costs <u$30 by mail order, so i’m considering replacing it myself. (the shifter and console takeapart seem simple enough. and the leather shifter boot is a tempting upgrade.)
has anyone done this, and are there any tips or gotchas to watch out for?
the part itself costs <u$30 by mail order, so i’m considering replacing it myself. (the shifter and console takeapart seem simple enough. and the leather shifter boot is a tempting upgrade.)
has anyone done this, and are there any tips or gotchas to watch out for?
so I'm curious your dealer won't fix it under service bulletin 16-112-18R ? https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10153178-9999.pdf
Took mine into the closest stealership today as my 17 Crosstrek has been getting worser and worser. The service advisor acted like the service bulletin didn't exist or was incorrect. They insisted on starting with a $155 diagnostic fee to rule out a faulty ignition or faulty key before considering the park switch replacement advised in the bulletin. It needs to get done as the car is becoming a real PITA. I'll be having a long convo with SOA when the final bill arrives.
FWIW, there were probably 100 Subarus trying to get in for service today.
FWIW, there were probably 100 Subarus trying to get in for service today.
Had some significant success with calling SOA and asking for some help on the repair under TSB 16-112-18R. They agreed to pay for the repair ($450 which is ridiculously high) and I needed to pay the $155 diagnostic fee. Thats still malarkey, since I had already fully diagnosed the issue before bringing it in. Did get the brake lamp recall done too, so I can stop getting email from 3 different dealers.
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Had the same problem on my 2016. About six months ago, I took it to the dealer and they were well aware of the problem, but they were charging FULL retail for the repair despite knowing it was a "known issue". They wanted over $699 + tax to fix the issue. Then they tried to lay the "we can't really let you take the car with this discrepancy" nonsense. Paid the bill and left a very grumpy puppy.
Zero stars on their service process on this one. Made sure the survey reflected that as well.
Fm
I just took my car to the dealer for this problem and this is my plan. For ~$40 I am more than happy to spend a few hours re-pinning the part. I have previously done the leather boot upgrade, and have since taken the center console apart for a few varied upgrades, and there is nothing too tricky to it.
Here is a great video to follow along with:
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I made an account to post here because I just had this fixed on my 2016 outback. TLDR - call Subaru of America. I had an amazingly good experience with their customer service and they paid for the entire repair.
It started happening about a month ago - every couple days I wouldn't be able to get the key out without restarting the engine and shifting the gears around a bit. It gradually got worse and worse, to the point where every single time I drove anywhere I'd end up having to restart the engine multiple times after parking. I started getting worried that someday I wouldn't be able to get the key out at all.
I made an appointment at my local dealership and mentioned the service bulletin. At first the technician was pretty sure the repair would be covered under warranty. But he came back a few minutes later to tell me he'd checked with a coworker and it wouldn't be covered after all. He estimated $500-600 for the total cost. To his credit, he also recommended calling Subaru of America, as he thought they might offer to help out.
Calling them was the best decision I've made in months. I was on the phone for less than 5 minutes. The woman immediately knew exactly what I was talking about and confirmed that Subaru was paying to have it fixed on a case-by-case basis. She took down the info for my dealership and put in some kind of "priority claim" with their resolution department. An hour later I got a call from someone else at Subaru saying they'd been in touch with my service technician and they were paying for the entire repair.
The car was at the dealership for about 5 hours total and now works perfectly. It was an annoying problem to have, but overall I'm really impressed by how Subaru resolved it for me.
It started happening about a month ago - every couple days I wouldn't be able to get the key out without restarting the engine and shifting the gears around a bit. It gradually got worse and worse, to the point where every single time I drove anywhere I'd end up having to restart the engine multiple times after parking. I started getting worried that someday I wouldn't be able to get the key out at all.
I made an appointment at my local dealership and mentioned the service bulletin. At first the technician was pretty sure the repair would be covered under warranty. But he came back a few minutes later to tell me he'd checked with a coworker and it wouldn't be covered after all. He estimated $500-600 for the total cost. To his credit, he also recommended calling Subaru of America, as he thought they might offer to help out.
Calling them was the best decision I've made in months. I was on the phone for less than 5 minutes. The woman immediately knew exactly what I was talking about and confirmed that Subaru was paying to have it fixed on a case-by-case basis. She took down the info for my dealership and put in some kind of "priority claim" with their resolution department. An hour later I got a call from someone else at Subaru saying they'd been in touch with my service technician and they were paying for the entire repair.
The car was at the dealership for about 5 hours total and now works perfectly. It was an annoying problem to have, but overall I'm really impressed by how Subaru resolved it for me.
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Hi All,
Just to follow up. I just did this repair on my 2016. It is doable, but the skill level required elevates it beyond a simple swap. I would only tackle this if you are very comfortable with tools, taking things apart, and putting them back together with no parts left over. This is a no kidding "moderate" job, well past swapping out the stereo head unit or fixing a broken window motor. You also need a torque wrench because there are 4 large bolts and the nut to the transmission cable that require being torqued to spec when you put it back together. You really need the Crosstrek service manual and the exploded diagram. You need to order a few more parts (push nuts) besides the new plate itself.
It took me about 4 hours, full on, to do once I had the parts, not including disassembling the console trim. The time it takes at the dealer is legit.
Given that Subaru seems to be fixing this issue on their dime, I HIGHLY recommend people take advantage of the getting the dealer to do it.
Fm
Just to follow up. I just did this repair on my 2016. It is doable, but the skill level required elevates it beyond a simple swap. I would only tackle this if you are very comfortable with tools, taking things apart, and putting them back together with no parts left over. This is a no kidding "moderate" job, well past swapping out the stereo head unit or fixing a broken window motor. You also need a torque wrench because there are 4 large bolts and the nut to the transmission cable that require being torqued to spec when you put it back together. You really need the Crosstrek service manual and the exploded diagram. You need to order a few more parts (push nuts) besides the new plate itself.
It took me about 4 hours, full on, to do once I had the parts, not including disassembling the console trim. The time it takes at the dealer is legit.
Given that Subaru seems to be fixing this issue on their dime, I HIGHLY recommend people take advantage of the getting the dealer to do it.
Fm
Nearly 1 year after doing the simple fix initially described first by VitaminRad, I've had no issues whatsoever.
With the 'normally closed push-button momentary switch', the wiring to ignition is as Subaru intended.
In the event when I go to turn off the car and the key doesn't release, I simply hold the button down for a few seconds and the key releases.
It works perfectly and I've had no issues whatsoever with this approach.
Interestingly, the Subaru dealer here in Australia is using the exact same disable ignition approach as a 'temporary measure' for customers.
With the 'normally closed push-button momentary switch', the wiring to ignition is as Subaru intended.
In the event when I go to turn off the car and the key doesn't release, I simply hold the button down for a few seconds and the key releases.
It works perfectly and I've had no issues whatsoever with this approach.
Interestingly, the Subaru dealer here in Australia is using the exact same disable ignition approach as a 'temporary measure' for customers.
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I had this problem about a year ago. Every now and then I would have to slam my lever into park in order to get my key out. The strange thing is, it has gotten much better. In fact, it's probably been around 6 months since I've last slammed my lever home. Keeping my fingers crossed.
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Having the exact same issues and re putting the car into park and jiggling the steering wheel are definitely not working to resolve this issue. Did you ever find a fix to this? I just leave my keys in the car sometimes when they wont come out and praying someone will just steal my car so I can get a check to get a different one since no one can figure out a solution to this very irritating problem.
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