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If anyone cares, the way the system works is that when the shifter is in park, a long rod that rides inside the shifter makes contact with a microswitch at the base of the shifting mechanism. Thumping the shifter straight down would probably be the most effective way to "jiggle" a fussy switch. The same bracket also holds the switch for the manual shifting mode.

The only way to permanently resolve this issue with all the original safety mechanisms in place is to replace the plate the switch is mounted in as described above, or have the dealer deal with it.

Fm
 

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I've been keeping this in my pocket for a while but I had the same issue with my 07' Rabbit. The culprit was my key chain.

I was carrying too much weight and after a few years, gravity made a fool out of me.

Excessive weight damages the ignition's and ignition lock's tumblers. Next thing you know, you key won't go in, won't turn or won't come out.
 

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I found another temporary "SOLUTION"!! As described on page 7-22 (at least in the 2013 Impreza/Crosstrek manual), under the heading "Shift lock release using the shift lock release button", instructs you on how to remove the cap for the Shift Lock Release Button.

All I did is remove the cap and the key removes 100% of the time so far!! I did NOT continue with the instructions that covers the screwdriver with tape or cloth, or poke the screwdriver down to push the actual Shift Release Button.

So now, I just keep a small screwdriver in my door so that I can easily grab it and pop off the cap, take the key out and replace the cap. Then I'm on my way! I'm hoping to get it fixed soon, but it works so far!!

I hope this helps!
 

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16 Crosstrek Premium Quartz Blue Pearl
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What's working for me so far is to always set the parking break before putting the car in park. 🤷‍♂️
 

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I started running into the same problem on my 2016 Crosstrek. I HAVE FOUND THE SOLUTION. So very thankful for this youtube video as this problem is minor but such a headache. It is really an easy fix, just follow his instructions. You only need a phillips head screwdriver and something that can pry.. I used a small hunting knife. The fix took me about 10-15 minutes and sounds like it saved multiple trips to the dealership.
How can I be granted access to watch the video? Thanks
 

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I had this issue a while ago, and surprisingly don't have it anymore... what I did every time it got stuck was to pull (push?) the "trigger" on the CVT shift knob a few times. Then it always came out after a few pulls. No calls to the dealer, I forget where I read about this so I'm sorry can't give credit except to "somebody on the internet". Hope this helps.
 

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hello

my daughters 2017 crosstrek started to have this problem. of course it happens 6 months and 2k miles past the 3yr/36 month warranty. after reading the board here i called subaru of america. they had me bring the car in to the dealer. then they called and said they are going to cover the cost of fixing it. they were actually very helpfull.

oldschool
 

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My daughter's 2013 impreza cvt is doing the same thing.. One way we figured out to get it out is to pop the hood remove the battery cable from the ground and it comes right out. Every time. Other times forcefully putting it in park works.. But removing power works great.
 

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I watched a video on YouTube about this. It happened to me a couple times. If you depress the button on the shifter 4 times, it does something and you can then get the key out. I tried it, and it worked.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Hi FM, did u made any video? Also did u put car on the lift to repair the issue?
OR you can replace park range switch from within the car?
Also what is the torque value?
I will appreciate your response.
Thank you.
Joy

[UOTE="Floridaman222, post: 2060749, member: 297460"]
Hi All,

Just to follow up. I just did this repair on my 2016. It is doable, but the skill level required elevates it beyond a simple swap. I would only tackle this if you are very comfortable with tools, taking things apart, and putting them back together with no parts left over. This is a no kidding "moderate" job, well past swapping out the stereo head unit or fixing a broken window motor. You also need a torque wrench because there are 4 large bolts and the nut to the transmission cable that require being torqued to spec when you put it back together. You really need the Crosstrek service manual and the exploded diagram. You need to order a few more parts (push nuts) besides the new plate itself.

It took me about 4 hours, full on, to do once I had the parts, not including disassembling the console trim. The time it takes at the dealer is legit.

Given that Subaru seems to be fixing this issue on their dime, I HIGHLY recommend people take advantage of the getting the dealer to do it.

Fm
[/QUOTE]
 

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It started happening to me 'bout a month ago with my 2013 Subaru Impreza CVT. Yesterday took it to the mechanic that did something (as he said underneath the car), but I still get the issue (though much less frequent than it was before). From some of the video on the internet I found that if shifter is in position D,N,M,R the ignition lock receives 12V thus won't release the key, when shifter is in P - lock receives 0V and key can be released. I'm planing to first measure the voltage on the lock when in D or in P position to see if I get proper voltage, if not then disassemble centre console and get to the shifter to see if there's wiring\switch issue. I suspect this part (#35122FJ033) could be the issue, but we'll see.
 

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I found this thread after this problem started happening to my 2016 Crosstrek (Approx 70k miles) about 2 months ago.
For a little while, rocking the shifter in and out of park would do the trick and I decided not to pay much more attention to it as it was fairly sporadic.
But today I finally had to give up after 20 or so attempts failed to release the key, so I followed this guide on YT.
Also, DO NOT TOUCH THE GREEN PLASTIC COVER. There is a spring in there and its a pain to put back together. Ask me how I know, hah.


Thankfully for my Crosstrek, the cutout for the ignition cylinder was big enough that I could remove the column cover while the key was in without trouble.
All you need to do is feel around the bottom of the clip for a very irritating to reach push in tab and then the wire plug will come out.
Once out, I was able to remove the key. This does disable the key in ignition display message and chime, but I haven't noticed any other ill side effects.

Pretty sure several other members have mentioned this, just wanted to post my experience in the hope that someone else avoids removing the transparent green cover.
I'm amazed I didn't lose that tiny spring.
 

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Hey all - I just noticed this thread after I posted my solution to this issue on a smaller thread. If you've found that rocking your shifter back and forth eventually releases your keys, I recommend reading my response here (I don't want to have to rewrite it here).

To summarize what I did, I took some interior pieces off to get to the shifter and intended on replacing the guide plate (part #35122FJ033). However, I noticed that the existing part had a worn tab that didn't actuate a button that releases your keys. Once I had it straightened out I have not had my keys stuck since. I highly recommend this as an alternative to replacing the entire shifter assembly and as a troubleshooting procedure for this problem.
 

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Today I turned my car off and the key wouldn't get released from the ignition. It rotates in the core, goes from Lock to Acc to On to Start just fine. When I turn it to Lock (Off) I can't pull the key out more than 1/8" before it just stops. I got it out by turning to Acc a few times and carefully turning to Lock, and after a few minutes it came out. But after driving home, it happened again and now I can't get it out. I tried starting the car, putting in gear, putting back in Park, then turning off and it's still not getting released. I couldn't find a lock over-ride to release the key, so it's stuck in my ignition.
Mine does it all the time, just gotta play with it while twisting. Seems to be happening less, whatever is catching must be getting worn out.
 

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Has anyone mentioned heavy key rings?
I seem to remember that back in the ‘80’s?, that a major manufacturer had a recall on the key cylinder apparatus because it could not bear the weight of the heavy key rings popular in that time. You know- the type that you have to clip onto your belt because they won’t fit in a pocket.
Just a thought.
 

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I'm new to the forum here, so greetings everyone.
My 2016 Forrester has started showing similar but random key removal problems over the last few months, so I called my Subaru dealership who were very eager to quote $550 costs and gleefully recommended me to book the car in at the soonest. I'm sure they were very careful NOT to mention the two new keys required, tax and labor - bringing the bill closer to a Grand.
I've seen suggestions to WD40 (or similar) the barrel, and I'm trying that first because I begrudge paying any dealership that sort of money if it's a mechanical problem.
I've pulled motorbike engines apart and put them back together as well, so a piddly little lock should not tax me in any shape or form.
 
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