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Audio upgrade - 2017 Crosstrek

36K views 34 replies 13 participants last post by  FLCrosstrekker  
#1 ·
Hello all. This is my first post, however, I've spent many hours reading through various posts. I recently purchases a 2017 Limited Crosstrek with the 7" screen with navigation. As most have pointed out, the stock speakers are pretty bad.

I've read through just about all the thread there are regarding upgrading the speakers. But most of the posts are some years old, so I was hoping I could get some updated information.

Here are a few details that will hopefully help the forum members give me some replies:
  • I would like to keep the stock Head Unit. The code on the face of the HU is FM666US. I did a google search for this and nothing came up. I'd love to see what the back looks like, but I'm wondering if it's still too new to be found on the web.
  • I don't want to install an amp to run the front and rear door speakers.
  • I have already ordered the Rockford Fosgate P300-12 subwoofer.

Now for some questions:

Door speakers
  1. A popular speaker seems to be the Polk DB651. Is that still a good choice here in 2017? It's rated at 4 ohms. I've read some threads that said an amp should be used for 4 ohm speakers. Will the DB651 sound good without an amp? As mentioned above, I'd like to avoid installing an amp to run the door speakers.
  2. Component vs Coaxial: I've looked at the Polk DB6501 (component with external crossovers) and Crutchfield did a nice article on upgrading a 2015 model. They used Rockford Fosgate Punch P152 (with internal crossovers). They used a Wire Worm to guide the speaker wire from the tweeter dash area to the doors. I've seen a couple posts where people were talking about doing this, but I didn't find any feedback or tips. Is it possible? Is it worth it? Or is it better to just install the Kicker upgrade tweeters and something like the Polk DB651 in the doors? I'm leaning towards component to have the crossover benefits, but I'm worried that routing the speaker wire may end in failure!
  3. I've seen some people say they intalled 5.25" speakers in the doors, and some said 6.5". Can anyone confirm what size I'll need for the front and rear doors of the 2017 model?
  4. Are there any tried and true mounting brackets for mounting the door speakers? I've seen posts recommending ordering custom mounts. I've seen some people say they drilled new holes into the door. I'd prefer something I could order off Amazon or similar. There's a great YouTube video for a WRX door speaker upgrade. The guy in it uses a bracket Scosche SAGMEQ656. It worked out well for him and I'd like to find a similar solution for the 2017 Crosstrek.
  5. Speaker harness connector for the door speakers: I've seen in older posts that the Metra 72-8104 worked in older models. Can anyone confirm if this same harness connector that will work for the 2017 Crosstrek? I'd prefer a harness connector because I'd like to avoid cutting off the existing stock connector.

The Subwoofer (Rockford Fosgate P300-12)
As mentioned, I've already purchased this. The sub allows for either a connection to the head unit, or it can be tapped into the rear speaker wires. I think I'd prefer to connect to the head unit, but it seems that a custom harness has to be ordered, people often refering to ae64 dot com. Is that still the case? Does the 2017 model not have a line out for a sub? I imagine that it will just be easier to tap into the rear speakers.

So I apologize for so many questions. Thanks in advance for any input you can give.
 
#2 · (Edited)
Suggest you rethink you criteria of not using an amp on the door speakers.
(note most of my stereo advice relates to my 2016 Forester with the same 7" HU).

If you really don't want to use an amp, I suggest you upgrade the tweeters to the Subaru Kicker ones for $100 and be done. You'll get what IMO is the best sound you can without an amp. We did this on our 2016 Crosstrek Limited and the sound is decent, at least close to an average new car stereo or better. The 7" HU has much better sound quality than previous Subaru HUs, but it has no power to move any speaker other than a cheap paper cone (which is what the OEM speakers are).

I did try to run aftermarket door speakers off the 7" HU, using what were some of the highest sensitivity speakers recommend (JBL GT series, which are popular replacements). The sound was lacking, very thin and tiny, nothing on the lower 1/3 of the spectrum. The HU just couldn't move them. I then tried the Subaru Kicker door speakers, powered only off the HU. Again, tiny and anemic, not worth it, IMHO.

Then I put my amp in, and wow. I ended up keeping the Kickers since the fit was plug and play, but I did try the JBLs and they were great too.

i understand running wires for an amp is a pain. Also, with the current dash, removing the 7" HU is also a major pain in the rear. I did it on my Forester, but like I said, we didn't bother on the wife's Crosstrek. If you are serious about audio, bite the bullet, do some research and use an amp. If you just want an improvement, upgrade the tweeters only.
 
#3 ·
Suggest you rethink you criteria of not using an amp on the door speakers.
(note most of my stereo advice relates to my 2016 Forester with the same 7" HU).

If you really don't want to use an amp, I suggest you upgrade the tweeters to the Subaru Kicker ones for $100 and be done. You'll get what IMO is the best sound you can without an amp. We did this on our 2016 Crosstrek Limited and the sound is decent, at least close to an average new car stereo or better. The 7" HU has much better sound quality than previous Subaru HUs, but it has no power to move any speaker other than a cheap paper cone (which is what the OEM speakers are).

I did try to run aftermarket door speakers off the 7" HU, using what were some of the highest sensitivity speakers recommend (JBL GT series, which are popular replacements). The sound was lacking, very thin and tiny, nothing on the lower 1/3 of the spectrum. The HU just couldn't move them. I then tried the Subaru Kicker door speakers, powered only off the HU. Again, tiny and anemic, not worth it, IMHO.

Then I put my amp in, and wow. I ended up keeping the Kickers since the fit was plug and play, but I did try the JBLs and they were great too.

i understand running wires for an amp is a pain. Also, with the current dash, removing the 7" HU is also a major pain in the rear. I did it on my Forester, but like I said, we didn't bother on the wife's Crosstrek. If you are serious about audio, bite the bullet, do some research and use an amp. If you just want an improvement, upgrade the tweeters only.
Grrr... I was afraid someone was going to tell me I needed an amp!! :)

Any suggestions on a small amp that would do fine for powering the door speakers? And any placement suggestions?

An amp would require dash removal and custom bracket, is that correct?

Thanks for the input.
 
#10 ·
Alpine KTP-445U. $120 on Amazon, can be had a bit cheaper on Ebay. Can be powered off the stock stereo harness, you do not need to run a separate power wire, and installs between the stereo and speakers, using the speaker outputs from the stock HU for the amp inputs. It then amplifies the sound and outputs directly to the speakers through the factory harness. You will need to get the "breakout harness" from ae64.com, so you will not need to cut the factory harness. It really is plug and play, since you can do all of the wiring in your kitchen or garage. The amp is small enough to fit inside the dash under your stereo.

Word of caution, since this is a class D amp and runs off the factory harness, you will get a low level hiss from the speakers when your amp is on (ie: whenever your engine is on or the key is in the ACC position) regardless of whether you are listening to the stereo or not. It's not intrusive at all and you can't hear it when the car is moving. The sound is much, much better.
 
#5 · (Edited)
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#22 ·
Hello again CRAZYHAWK. So I intalled the front speakers yesterday. The mounts from ebay you recommended were a life saver. Do you know if the same mounts are needed for rear doors? For some reason I ordered these for the rear doors: "1 PAIR UNIVERSAL 6.5" / 6.75" SPEAKER ADAPTER Angled SPACER MOUNTS RINGS". I'm not sure why but I must have read it in a different post.
 
#8 ·
Thanks Crazyhawk. I looked at these speakers on Crutchfield, but I didn't see any mention of the harness being included. Can you point me where it says that?

Thanks also for the link to the spacers.
 
#7 · (Edited)
One thing everyone needs to realise is perceived sound quality is subjective to each individual. Your not going to make your Crosstrek sound like the interior of a high end BMW. And there are a ton of reasons why that can't happen.That being said Crazyhawk has a point. Given the output of the HU, high sensitivity speakers is a good choice. Combine that with a powered sub with frequency filtering then you should be very happy.
 
#12 · (Edited)
#15 ·
Thanks for that info. That's the one (Metra 71-035LC) that Crutchfield noted when I ordered my speakers (I ended up getting the Polk DB651 that CRAZYHAWK linked to in a previous post). I ordered the Polk DB6501 components for the front doors from Amazon because Crutchfield no longer carried them.

So all is ordered. For the amp I went with the Alpine 4-channel MRV-F300, mainly because it's small size. I'm hoping to fit it under the passenger seat. It is also supposed to be really good at regulating its own temperature, so it shouldn't get too hot I'm hoping.

I ordered 36 sf of Noico 80 mil sound deadening mat from Amazon (Dynamat knockoff that is a lot less expensive and has pretty good reviews on Amazon and YouTube)

Speaking of which, from what I've read, Dynamat is a sound DEADENING application that dampens vibrations, but it is not a sound barrier. I've read that for barriers, I need to go with a self-adhesive CCF (Closed Cell Foam) and/or a MLV (Mass Loaded Vinyl). It seems that MLV is heavier and really only good for floor surfaces and CCF is better for inverted surfaces (door walls, roof). I don't think I'm going to tackle the floor of my Crosstrek, but I will do the doors since I'll have them disassembled for the speaker install, and the back hatch area. Can anyone make any recommendations for "best-bang-for-your buck" CCF and MLV?

If all goes well, I'll get to work on this next weekend!
 
#29 ·
Hey Guys. My first post on this forum.
Picking up the 2017 Crosstrek Limited next week. My wife's car.
Reading through this thread I'm surprised that there is no mention of upgrading both sets of front speakers - doors and tweeters. It is definitely more money but am I missing something? Putting 2 ways down in the bottom of the doors where you can not hear them seems like a bad idea. In all the years of playing with stereos the one thing I know is that tweeters should be at you head height for them to sound correct. I understand that if you just get 4 speakers but if that car come with the place for the tweeters?
So did anyone replace both front speakers and use a passive crossover? If so what speakers do you recommend? Was looking at the Alpine SPS-610C I would guess that almost any tweeter will fit under the large cover on the dash!
 
#31 ·
:welcome:
...to the forums, GregoryK!

You will see upgrades to all speakers, including the door speakers, tweeters, and even adding a subwoofer. You may not see them all in 1 thread, because they've generally been talked about separately: tweeters, 4 door speakers, and subwoofer.

There have been some creative upgrades, both straight forward with the OEM Kickers, and also with cheaper DIY/home upgrades, and other customized solutions. Look around, and if you have specific questions, you may want to start your own thread that's specific to your needs - I'd just recommend looking around, searching, and trying to navigate your own solution first. :)
 
#30 ·
#32 · (Edited)
I replace the tweeters and door speakers with the Subaru/Kicker upgrades. It's $300, but dead easy and the improvement is massive. I personally don't have a need for anything louder. When the volume is turned up, people in the rearview mirror look like characters from Dr. Katz, Professional Therapist. I'm sure that aftermarket is cheaper and better, but the Kickers were done in 30 min.
 
#35 ·
Though the Kicker is a perfect fit there are better sonic options out there. Depends on how much fitting you want to do and how good you are at it. HU is crap sound, adding an amp will make it louder, but not cleaner or better. I recommend ditching the HU and replacing it all.