OK, so I am a cheap ba$tard and I wanted new tweeters. I could barely hear the stock ones. So I give you the $20 tweeter upgrade!
I started by looking at the stock tweeter and determined that it has an impedence of 6 ohms. Most aftermarket car audio tweeters are designed to be used with an amplifier and are 4 ohms. I replaced the stock door speakers with a 4 ohm Polk DXI650 and wanted to replace the tweeters with new ones with the same 6 ohm impedance to keep the draw on the stock head unit amp the same or close to stock. I dont know the stock door speaker impedance, so definitely didnt want to increase the load any further by using 4 ohm tweeters..
My reasoning: Polk DXI650 (4 Ohm load) + Polk DB1001 (4 ohm load) = 2 Ohm load at the amp. This MAY overdrive the amp and cause overheating or possibly failure....therefore...
Polk DXI650 (4 ohm load) + Dayton Audio ND16FA-6 (6 ohm load) = less load or same as stock load at the amp when compared to all other 4 ohm tweeters.
Armed with this info, I searched for tweeters with 6 ohm impedance, that had good reviews, and were CHEAP! I came up with the Daytons here...
Dayton Audio ND16FA-6 5/8" Neodymium Dome Tweeter 275-025
Then I needed to block the lower frequency sound going to them with a simple inline crossover- a non polarized capacitor. This cap will cutoff the sound below approximately 4khz when placed inline on the positive lead (according to partsexpress tech forum- props to those guys and their audio knowledge)
6.8uF 100V Non-Polarized Capacitor 027-336
Total comes out to $20.46!! (plus shipping, of course)
Here are the tweeters, caps, and the stock tweeter.
close up of the dayton tweeter- It is a silk dome style and sounds way better than cheap paper cones.
Now the install!
Remove old tweet
Give the new tweeter a test fire!
Sounds good, time to make things permanent. I soldered the caps in-line on the positive lead. Then shrinkwrapped the connections.
A little more shrinkwrap for protection:
Now I hacked up the old tweeter and stripped everything off of its metal frame. You basically pry off the magnet and all the other plastic peices. then I add some sound dampening material to the frame. This is not really necessary but then I thought of a way to use it as a mounting plate!
stick some material to the frame, lay the tweeter on the FatMat and trace around it. Cut a hole with a razor blade.
Press fit the tweeter.
INSTALL!! I used spade connectors that I had to modify to fit the stock connector.
here is the wiring I used. couldnt find anything on tweeter polarity so I used the leads with red as positive (makes sense but not sure if correct). The foam wraps around the plug and connections to help keep them secure and to eliminate rattles.
Boom. How you like that?
Too shiny, added foam for appearance. You could see the silver FatMat through the grill. You could also paint it black if you take the tweeter out first.
Snap the grill back in place and repeat the process for the other side. The passenger side had a red wire too so again I used that for positive.
THESE SOUND GREAT! You can now actually hear sound from the tweeters. I had to dial the trebel to +5 and sometimes +8 on the stock tweeters just so I could hear they were even playing. I have the trebel set flat to zero with the Dayton audio tweeters! There is a more airy sound and wider sound stage and stero image. You definitly know theres an upgrade there. They sound great and more accurate to my ears, but might be a tad bright, so I may tweek the trebel settings. HUGE bang for the buck!!! I'll put them up against the kickers anyday.