[jp7342]

[EDIT]

What do you mean "non-running" but loaded. Turn radio on, fan, headlights without starting engine? Did this. With headlights on, radio, fan and engine off, battery reading is 11.8v

So, after more thorough observation/checking, without the engine started, battery voltage is at 12.96V. The warning lights turning on has inconsistency. There are times lights will be on as soon as you start the engine. Other times it's after you shift from PARK to REVERSE

 

[jp7342]

No problem at all. Just want to make sure I understand what you meant. Thanks

 

[jp7342]

I think I might have found the problem to my vehicle. Posted by SquirrelOfChaos on this thread:

https://www.subaruxvforum.com/threads/at-oil-temp-light-flashing-abs-vdc-hill-assist-lights-are-on.124962/page-2

.

It explains why sometimes the warning lights turn on only after I shift from PARK

 

[jp7342]

I think both alternators are outputting higher than specs and may damage electronics and battery if not diagnosed soon.

Anecdotal evidence; years ago, my Mercury Sable wagon 3.8L(?) V6 killed a new battery after replacing a faulty alternator. Ford decided to use a separate, externally mounted regulator back then. Old battery died, replaced, and new battery couldn't turn over the engine. Thru store tests, the regulator was faulty; it allowed the new alternator to output over 17vdc while getting hot. Too hot to touch. New Ford regulator stopped overcharging, new battery replaced under warranty.

Virtually every vehicle with alternators, dumb or smart, do not output above 15vdc. Something is very wrong. Do you have a battery sensor? It's usually on the battery negative cable, near the terminal. The battery sensor serves at least one purpose; sending voltages to the ecm determining when to regulate alternator output. Smart charging as another tweak in fuel mileage. Worse case scenario with or without smart charging; alternator output is regulated never to exceed 15vdc as this can cook electronics and battery resulting in major problems.

A part of service manuals describes Subaru using their proprietary scan tool, SSM, to command an alternator low, medium and high output. No mention of voltages, which model or year.

Easy things to examine and correct; loose, corroded battery connections and major grounds (battery to chassis, chassis to engine block), and slipping drive belt from a worn out belt tensioner. This can reveal whether corroded power connections are preventing electrical conductivity, fooling electronics into false error codes (it does occur). If output voltage remains above 15vdc, you may need either a very experienced mobile technician or Subaru services to determine the cause of higher than 15vdc.

I cleaned all the ground connections, battery terminal, etc...then checked the second time. This time, I was getting 14.9V. Still a bit on the high side. 14.5v is the ideal but I'll take 14.9v.

 

[jp7342]

"It’s a transmission pressure sensor solenoid. " - this is the issue?

Yes. When I tried shifting earlier, I felt a little hesitation. You can tell the solenoid is about ready to give up 100%. At that point, it would be impossible to drive/shift like many owners experienced.

 

[jp7342]

How did you come to the conclusion it was battery related? I had all those lights and it was the convertor clutch valve body solenoid. Check the trouble codes to see what the actual issue is or at least guide you in the right direction. That should be step one before throwing any parts at the car.

Yeah, that was stupid on my parts. Jumped into conclusion because of prior experiences. I need to learn, these new cars are built different. But all good, was able to return it for refund.

Anyways, I'm here to report after replacing the valve body, everything is good again. If anyone is experiencing the same problem, pay close attention when you shift from PARK. Does the warning lights turn on only when you shift? Does it hesitate or is it rough? Does it make an abnormal sound? Good luck to you all.