[Douglass10]

I just got mine back from the valve springs recall fix. It was running fine. Took it out of town. Literally the moment I got back in town it was Christmas time on my dash. I’ve no clue what to do except take it back. It’s a 2013 with around 118k. She has been running wonderfully since I bought her with the exception of a major tune up about a year or so ago. Is it still safe to drive with those lights on? The oil is fresh and new and they said everything was fine.

I'm at 120k and a couple weeks ago while out of state I had my AT Oil temp light start flashing and then my abs, traction and hill hold assist came on. Eventually got it into my local dealer a few weeks ago to do the recalls brake switch and valve springs. I was notified that the valve body in the tranny needed to be changed $1,500 and also the cam carrier was bad and leaking oil which was another $1,000. I will be getting it back tomorrow. FML... Literally why i bought a subie so I wouldn't have issues like this.

 

[mesree]

This same thing happened to me after the recall "fix". I was going 65 on the freeway and the hill assist light suddenly came on and my car slowed to 25 MPH. I was terrified. I took it back to the dealership and they told me the needed to adjust something. They clearly know it's an issue. After they fixed it they told me I had a front timing cover leak. I highly suspect everything is related.

 

[Danackley]

I would like to know if anyone can give me a difinitive answer as to what the issue is because I am having these exact same issues. It started 6 months ago and I have not had any problems other than the light flashes and the others stay on. Have changed the transmission fluid and still does. Sounds to me like another recall is due. Plus in the state of Maine Subaru does not have to share code information which really ticks me off. I figure I purchase the car I purchase the meanings of the codes.

 

[Court]

I was driving on the freeway the AT oil temp light flashing, ABS, VDC, Hill Assist lights are on. The Wentworth Subaru Service in Portland Oregon took care the problem for me. They are very nice and professional. John Saylese is very nice and very helpful. thank you.

What was the issue?

 

[subyrubyroo]

I would like to know if anyone can give me a difinitive answer as to what the issue is because I am having these exact same issues. It started 6 months ago and I have not had any problems other than the light flashes and the others stay on. Have changed the transmission fluid and still does. Sounds to me like another recall is due. Plus in the state of Maine Subaru does not have to share code information which really ticks me off. I figure I purchase the car I purchase the meanings of the codes.

Not sure where you got the info but the service manual and code reader both tell you what the code means. If they are telling you otherwise, find a new dealer. OBD 2 is a standard, it’s not secret. Plug your found code into a search engine and you’ll get an explanation. There is a trouble shooting procedure you need to follow though. You shouldn’t just throw parts at it without knowing what you’re doing. But they definitely don’t hide the meaning.

From your lights, sounds like you have the transmission valve body issue. Need the codes to confirm though. Bet they are P0700 and P2764 or close like 62 or 63. Pretty sure it’s the reason they extended the warranty on the CVT to 10yrs / 100,000 miles due to all the failures.

My just failed yesterday. I’m at about 149,000 miles.

 

[Court]

Mine is the valve body- Subaru wants $1800 to fix. I'll update you all once I know the next steps of what I'm going to do I have a 2014 Forestor with 145k on it. I think $1800 for that repair is ridiculous!

 

[subyrubyroo]

Realistically you are at about $1000 for the valve body, seals, new fluid, and such. You can repair without changing the fluid but since it’s open I would. My issue is with the relearning after the install. I have to talk to a few people and see what I can come up with. Some higher end scan tools can reset and relearn the parameters. The DS808 being one of them. I want to avoid the stealer.

Be sure to update. I’ll try and do the same. Thanks!

 

[Gally]

Not sure where you got the info but the service manual and code reader both tell you what the code means. If they are telling you otherwise, find a new dealer. OBD 2 is a standard, it’s not secret. Plug your found code into a search engine and you’ll get an explanation. There is a trouble shooting procedure you need to follow though. You shouldn’t just throw parts at it without knowing what you’re doing. But they definitely don’t hide the meaning.

From your lights, sounds like you have the transmission valve body issue. Need the codes to confirm though. Bet they are P0700 and P2764 or close like 62 or 63. Pretty sure it’s the reason they extended the warranty on the CVT to 10yrs / 100,000 miles due to all the failures.

My just failed yesterday. I’m at about 149,000 miles.

Hey y'all,

So I just hopped on this thread because 2 days ago as I was driving my 2014 Forester with 79k miles, and the AT oil temp light started flashing and the VDC, ABS, Hill assist all turned on at the same time. I am completely at a loss of what it might be!
I have had the brake light switch already replaced after the recall last year. I have checked the battery -- albeit it is in the last quarter of its life, it is totally operable. The alternator has been checked and it's good. I just had an oil change about 1000 miles ago (if that). But here's the strange thing, I have checked for codes on both my OBD2 scanner and the scanner at my local auto parts store and neither have any codes that come up. Which leads me to think this is electrical? If it were an issue with the valve body in the transmission I would be seeing codes right? Also the driving performance has not changed at all. Still shifts fine.
Every time I get in the car and start the engine there are no lights, but when I shift out of park and start moving the same lights come on. Sometimes there is a little delay in warmer weather I've noticed. Anyway, next step is to shell out a hundred bucks for a full diagnostic, but I just wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts or suggestions on what it might be.

ALSO, just to top things off and for your entertainment, the day after the lights came on I got a rock stuck between my rotor and the back plate. As I go to jack up the car and remove the wheel I find that one of my lug nuts was cross threaded... I broke the whole damn stud off. Which is totally an easy fix, I know! HOWEVER, the caliper bolts were holding on for deeeear life, but with enough leverage and muscle they broke free, but now the rotor is STUCK!! After attempting every trick in the book and reaching maximum frustration, I've decided to take it in. I'm nothing close to a mechanic and this is my first car, so I'm damn proud of my effort, but I never thought that damn rotor would be the straw that broke the camels back. Up to my ears in penetrating spray, I'll tell you what. If anyone is interested I'll report back what the full diagnostic shows.

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View attachment 226274

 

[subyrubyroo]

There are jack screws to remove the rotor. They do rust and get stuck but there are 2 threaded holes that you put screws in to jack the rotor from the hub. They are on the face where your lug studs are located 180 deg apart. Dumb question, could you not pry the back plate away enough to get the stone to drop out rather than a full disassemble? Or was it too far down in near the hub?

Had all of those lights when the valve body actuator went out on mine. Lights on after you start to move also but it did set 2 codes. The cruise control symbol was also flashing. I have read something about the brake switch and this condition but have no experience with that.

 

[Ronnie XV]

I'm having the same problem. Did they say what it was?

This just happened to me yesterday. This forum suggested it could be Valve body (on top of transmission) because the check engine light was also on. Las Vegas Subaru diagnosed, and that was the issue. They are replacing the parts and doing a transmission fluid flush.
$2,215.00 Oof 😰 Excellent service department though, trustworthy and nice. Gave me a Legacy hybrid loaner car— wonderful!

 

[mikee]

I was driving on the freeway the AT oil temp light flashing, ABS, VDC, Hill Assist lights are on. The Wentworth Subaru Service in Portland Oregon took care the problem for me. They are very nice and professional. John Saylese is very nice and very helpful. thank you.

Can you advise if you remember what they did? Thank you

 

[squirrelOFchaos]

Can you advise if you remember what they did? Thank you

Edit: traction to VDC
Hey, maybe you already got yours addressed, but thought I'd give you my experience from today 2014 Crosstrek (non-Hybrid). Flashing AT Oil temp, ABS, VDC, hill lights were on. Did extensive research online, but found no one answer. Brake light switch recall was previously fixed. I had a OBD reader, hooked it up, no codes. Took to my mechanic who does Japanese cars. He hooked up his reader right away no codes. He did a quick inspection for sensors, loose wires and didn't find anything. Suggested I go to dealer. I went to dealer right away. They checked me in. Told me diagnosis is $220 but will contribute towards any repairs. Normally I'd hesitate, as I started seeing $$$$. But, my trusted mechanic suggested it, so I went for it knowing I gotta get this fixed and am exhausted to find an alternative at this point. Got a call few hours later. Issue, "found solenoid defective in valve body". I was not prepared for the next part. Repair was covered under extended warranty. Dealer said it falls under emissions, and in CA, covered up to 150k miles, or 2029, whichever comes first. My car had 113K miles on it. Lucky. Issue identified and fixed same day. No cost to me. Asked dealer for info on the warranty and he said go to subaru.com and go to "for owners" section where there is helpful info about your vehicle. I haven't checked it out yet. Good luck on yours, if not already fixed.

 

[dcdirtrider]

Not sure where you got the info but the service manual and code reader both tell you what the code means. If they are telling you otherwise, find a new dealer. OBD 2 is a standard, it’s not secret. Plug your found code into a search engine and you’ll get an explanation. There is a trouble shooting procedure you need to follow though. You shouldn’t just throw parts at it without knowing what you’re doing. But they definitely don’t hide the meaning.

From your lights, sounds like you have the transmission valve body issue. Need the codes to confirm though. Bet they are P0700 and P2764 or close like 62 or 63. Pretty sure it’s the reason they extended the warranty on the CVT to 10yrs / 100,000 miles due to all the failures.

My just failed yesterday. I’m at about 149,000 miles.

For anybody dealing with this issue, and has

Not sure where you got the info but the service manual and code reader both tell you what the code means. If they are telling you otherwise, find a new dealer. OBD 2 is a standard, it’s not secret. Plug your found code into a search engine and you’ll get an explanation. There is a trouble shooting procedure you need to follow though. You shouldn’t just throw parts at it without knowing what you’re doing. But they definitely don’t hide the meaning.

From your lights, sounds like you have the transmission valve body issue. Need the codes to confirm though. Bet they are P0700 and P2764 or close like 62 or 63. Pretty sure it’s the reason they extended the warranty on the CVT to 10yrs / 100,000 miles due to all the failures.

My just failed yesterday. I’m at about 149,000 miles.

If you're mechanically inclined and want to save some money, you don't necessarily need a whole new $800 valve body. All you need is a $90 solenoid off of Amazon, and a few o-rings and gaskets from Subaru. Subaru does not sell the tiny solenoid by itself, opting to only sell the entire valve body as a whole unit. TBH, Subaru is probably just padding their service department revenue with the "replace valve body" repair recommendation, while also wasting a perfectly good 20lb aluminum part. They make very little money on the initial sale of any vehicle, and most of their revenue is pulled from financing, extended warranties, maintenance services, and other optional services. The P0700 is just a simple code letting you know that your transmission is throwing a code, and you need a higher-end code-scanner to dig deeper. The P2764 is the code that actually matters, and is described as "Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control Circuit Low." In most cases, this code means there is a malfunction with the solenoid that controls the function of the torque converter within the valve body itself.

I just picked up a regular 2012 Impreza w/ the same exact codes, and fixed it in my driveway for less than $200. It would have been cheaper if I did not ruin the main valve body harness with a screwdriver, and if a ground-wire crimp-connector attached to one of the valve body solenoids didn't break in half. Below I have posted some pictures of the warning codes I encountered, some generalized pictures of the work completed, parts needed. and pictures of the actual valve body and it's layout. I'll also link a the video I found that provided the evidence that a completely new valve body is usually not required, although using a Forester CVT as reference.

Parts needed:
1) 31338AA020
2) 806912200 (x2)
3) 806921100
4) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XDNHQTM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (or similar product)

 

[subyrubyroo]

That is an option however if one of the solenoids failed, how long till the others go? They have all been exposed to the same heat and oil. I think that is more along the lines of what Subaru is thinking than gouging the customer. You pay to change the solenoid and then 2 months later another fails. That would not look too good on the service guys even though it would not be there fault. It's not a 5 minute change out.

The complete valve body can be had much less than $800. Buying the single solenoid is another option but I guess it depends if you have nothing better to do that to work on your car when the next one fails. It's been posted many times before as an option.

 

[dcdirtrider]

That is an option however if one of the solenoids failed, how long till the others go? They have all been exposed to the same heat and oil. I think that is more along the lines of what Subaru is thinking than gouging the customer. You pay to change the solenoid and then 2 months later another fails. That would not look too good on the service guys even though it would not be there fault. It's not a 5 minute change out.

The complete valve body can be had much less
than $800. Buying the single solenoid is another option but I guess it depends if you have nothing better to do that to work on your car when the next one fails. It's been posted many times before as an option.

Sure. But It also depends on if you've changed the CVT fluid before, and what actually caused the solenoid to fail. In most cases, if your car is over 100k with these issues, you're paying out of pocket. I bought my 2012 Impreza for $2.5k, so spending $2k to have a shop repair it just doesn't make sense. Heck, even $800 to do a full valve body myself is hard to swallow on a $2.5k car.

This is not a repair for everybody, but it is an option for those who don't mind some trial & error. And I'm not 100% sure the CVT fluid is what compromises the solenoids, or even that the fluid has any influence if it's properly maintained.

 

[Daniel_Outback_2013]

I'm at 120k and a couple weeks ago while out of state I had my AT Oil temp light start flashing and then my abs, traction and hill hold assist came on. Eventually got it into my local dealer a few weeks ago to do the recalls brake switch and valve springs. I was notified that the valve body in the tranny needed to be changed $1,500 and also the cam carrier was bad and leaking oil which was another $1,000. I will be getting it back tomorrow. FML... Literally why i bought a subie so I wouldn't have issues like this.

Hi, did you have your car working fine? I hit the same milestone with 120k and got the same lights on... did you fix it and still driving good? tks

 

[Klaird584]

My dash lit up like a Christmas tree yesterday. Hill Assist, ABS and VDC light are on and flashing AT oil Temp. I thought maybe the battery is done, it hasn't been changed yet and has died before from leaving flashers on for 30 min. Replaced the battery. From what i have researched so far:
Bad brake light switch will cause ABS, VDC and Hill Assist to come one. ( replaced it)
Also because of the wiring in subaru, sometimes if the light bulb burns out, same lights will come on, replaced it. ( If you ask me, very dumb design)
I was trying to read for any codes, nothing come up
Car drives just fine, transmission is shifting great in any mode, no lag or hesitation.
I tried resetting the system, afterwards its good, no lights. I put the car in Drive and its great! As soon as i spit on the brake, everything lights up again.
So this makes me suspect something with brakes. I haven't changed my brake pads yet and the car has 70K on it, but i never had this ind of issue with worn brakes! Could have Subaru Dealer given me bad brake switch? ( I guess)
So basically i am at a loss.
Any tip or direction would be greatly appreciated!!!

Oh, Subaru is all booked until mid May for diagnostics, and they want $150 for it

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I know this post is dated, but for anyone looking through for answers my fiancé and I had this exact same issue. We got the brake switch sensor replaced, and instead of replacing the valve body, they cleaned the throttle body and all lights went away. So I suggest fix the sensor and look into a throttle body cleaning first before resorting to anything else.

 

[Janet P.]

My dash lit up like a Christmas tree yesterday. Hill Assist, ABS and VDC light are on and flashing AT oil Temp. I thought maybe the battery is done, it hasn't been changed yet and has died before from leaving flashers on for 30 min. Replaced the battery. From what i have researched so far:
Bad brake light switch will cause ABS, VDC and Hill Assist to come one. ( replaced it)
Also because of the wiring in subaru, sometimes if the light bulb burns out, same lights will come on, replaced it. ( If you ask me, very dumb design)
I was trying to read for any codes, nothing come up
Car drives just fine, transmission is shifting great in any mode, no lag or hesitation.
I tried resetting the system, afterwards its good, no lights. I put the car in Drive and its great! As soon as i spit on the brake, everything lights up again.
So this makes me suspect something with brakes. I haven't changed my brake pads yet and the car has 70K on it, but i never had this ind of issue with worn brakes! Could have Subaru Dealer given me bad brake switch? ( I guess)
So basically i am at a loss.
Any tip or direction would be greatly appreciated!!!

Oh, Subaru is all booked until mid May for diagnostics, and they want $150 for it

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This answer may be a little late, but we had exactly that and the solution was found. Subaru thought our 2016 Crosstrek had some kind of intermittent electrical problem, and every time we brought it to the shop the lights would go off. But it became more and more frequent - AT oil temp, ABS, hill assist, etc. I became alarmed when one day I realized that when the warning lights were on, the hill assist was in fact not working. What else wasn't working? The dealer finally found the problem - and replaced a broken gasket transmission cover, Body AY-cont VLV kit, gasket oil pans, etc. We had in fact not had all wheel drive either! The cost would have been about $2000., but luckily we had an extended warranty.

 

[RunForesterRun]

I too now have joined the fray. Same presentation of lights on the dash in my 2015 Forester with 80k miles. What did you find out from the diagnostic?

Hey y'all,

So I just hopped on this thread because 2 days ago as I was driving my 2014 Forester with 79k miles, and the AT oil temp light started flashing and the VDC, ABS, Hill assist all turned on at the same time. I am completely at a loss of what it might be!
I have had the brake light switch already replaced after the recall last year. I have checked the battery -- albeit it is in the last quarter of its life, it is totally operable. The alternator has been checked and it's good. I just had an oil change about 1000 miles ago (if that). But here's the strange thing, I have checked for codes on both my OBD2 scanner and the scanner at my local auto parts store and neither have any codes that come up. Which leads me to think this is electrical? If it were an issue with the valve body in the transmission I would be seeing codes right? Also the driving performance has not changed at all. Still shifts fine.
Every time I get in the car and start the engine there are no lights, but when I shift out of park and start moving the same lights come on. Sometimes there is a little delay in warmer weather I've noticed. Anyway, next step is to shell out a hundred bucks for a full diagnostic, but I just wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts or suggestions on what it might be.

ALSO, just to top things off and for your entertainment, the day after the lights came on I got a rock stuck between my rotor and the back plate. As I go to jack up the car and remove the wheel I find that one of my lug nuts was cross threaded... I broke the whole damn stud off. Which is totally an easy fix, I know! HOWEVER, the caliper bolts were holding on for deeeear life, but with enough leverage and muscle they broke free, but now the rotor is STUCK!! After attempting every trick in the book and reaching maximum frustration, I've decided to take it in. I'm nothing close to a mechanic and this is my first car, so I'm damn proud of my effort, but I never thought that damn rotor would be the straw that broke the camels back. Up to my ears in penetrating spray, I'll tell you what. If anyone is interested I'll report back what the full diagnostic shows.

 

[sas-XV]

I too now have joined the fray. Same presentation of lights on the dash in my 2015 Forester with 80k miles. What did you find out from the diagnostic?

Sounds like the CVT valve body problem.
If it is the CVT, your 2015 Forester should be covered under Subaru's Warranty extension.

On the affected vehicles, the warranty is being extended to ten (10) years or 100,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the date the vehicle was originally placed into service regardless of ownership.
Vehicles that exceed the terms of this extended warranty are eligible for warranty repairs if inspections and repairs are completed prior to July 31, 2018. After that time, all inspections and repairs must be completed prior to the 10 year or 100,000 mile warranty extension limits.

CVT REPAIR/REPLACEMENT LIMITATIONS
The warranty extension is only valid on original equipment CVT and Genuine Subaru replacement CVT assemblies re-manufactured by Subaru. It does not apply to salvage CVT assemblies, rebuilt salvage vehicles, or CVT assemblies that were re-manufactured, overhauled, or rebuilt by companies not approved by Subaru.

WILL MY CVT BE REPAIRED OR REPLACED
Remember that this warranty extension is not being issued to correct a specific problem. But if you have a problem or a concern regarding your CVT, you should contact a dealer to arrange for an inspection and possibly a repair or replacement.
Repairs may include parts replacement when technicians determine that part replacement will correct a failure. Examples of such part replacements include but are not limited to the torque converter, control valve body harness, sensors and switches. In cases where more extensive repairs will be required, a replacement CVT assembly may be installed.

Subaru dealers may perform a complimentary inspection of the CVT assembly even if the vehicle is displaying no symptoms.

WHAT IF I ALREADY PAID FOR REPAIRS?
Subaru is not currently accepting claims for reimbursement. If you believe that you should be reimbursed for prior repairs, we encourage you to contact Subaru.

FIND OUT MORE
If you have any questions regarding this warranty extension, contact Subaru at (844) 373-6622. Please have you Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) ready.