Our 2014 Crosstrek XV started acting up. Warnings lights came on ("Oil At Temp", ABS, Uphill/Downhill, etc...) I suspected the alternator is NOT charging but when I checked, it is actually charging at 15.8V. Then we suspected the voltage regulator had gone bad - overcharging. So, we bought a new alternator expecting it will fix the problem but the new alternator is also producing 15.8V. What could be the problem?
jp7342
How did you come to the conclusion it was battery related? I had all those lights and it was the convertor clutch valve body solenoid. Check the trouble codes to see what the actual issue is or at least guide you in the right direction. That should be step one before throwing any parts at the car.
I think both alternators are outputting higher than specs and may damage electronics and battery if not diagnosed soon.
Anecdotal evidence; years ago, my Mercury Sable wagon 3.8L(?) V6 killed a new battery after replacing a faulty alternator. Ford decided to use a separate, externally mounted regulator back then. Old battery died, replaced, and new battery couldn't turn over the engine. Thru store tests, the regulator was faulty; it allowed the new alternator to output over 17vdc while getting hot. Too hot to touch. New Ford regulator stopped overcharging, new battery replaced under warranty.
Virtually every vehicle with alternators, dumb or smart, do not output above 15vdc. Something is very wrong. Do you have a battery sensor? It's usually on the battery negative cable, near the terminal. The battery sensor serves at least one purpose; sending voltages to the ecm determining when to regulate alternator output. Smart charging as another tweak in fuel mileage. Worse case scenario with or without smart charging; alternator output is regulated never to exceed 15vdc as this can cook electronics and battery resulting in major problems.
A part of service manuals describes Subaru using their proprietary scan tool, SSM, to command an alternator low, medium and high output. No mention of voltages, which model or year.
Easy things to examine and correct; loose, corroded battery connections and major grounds (battery to chassis, chassis to engine block), and slipping drive belt from a worn out belt tensioner. This can reveal whether corroded power connections are preventing electrical conductivity, fooling electronics into false error codes (it does occur). If output voltage remains above 15vdc, you may need either a very experienced mobile technician or Subaru services to determine the cause of higher than 15vdc.
Anecdotal evidence; years ago, my Mercury Sable wagon 3.8L(?) V6 killed a new battery after replacing a faulty alternator. Ford decided to use a separate, externally mounted regulator back then. Old battery died, replaced, and new battery couldn't turn over the engine. Thru store tests, the regulator was faulty; it allowed the new alternator to output over 17vdc while getting hot. Too hot to touch. New Ford regulator stopped overcharging, new battery replaced under warranty.
Virtually every vehicle with alternators, dumb or smart, do not output above 15vdc. Something is very wrong. Do you have a battery sensor? It's usually on the battery negative cable, near the terminal. The battery sensor serves at least one purpose; sending voltages to the ecm determining when to regulate alternator output. Smart charging as another tweak in fuel mileage. Worse case scenario with or without smart charging; alternator output is regulated never to exceed 15vdc as this can cook electronics and battery resulting in major problems.
A part of service manuals describes Subaru using their proprietary scan tool, SSM, to command an alternator low, medium and high output. No mention of voltages, which model or year.
Easy things to examine and correct; loose, corroded battery connections and major grounds (battery to chassis, chassis to engine block), and slipping drive belt from a worn out belt tensioner. This can reveal whether corroded power connections are preventing electrical conductivity, fooling electronics into false error codes (it does occur). If output voltage remains above 15vdc, you may need either a very experienced mobile technician or Subaru services to determine the cause of higher than 15vdc.
I think I might have found the problem to my vehicle. Posted by SquirrelOfChaos on this thread:
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It explains why sometimes the warning lights turn on only after I shift from PARK
It explains why sometimes the warning lights turn on only after I shift from PARK
If you drive where lots of road salt is used you should check the ground cable connections for the battery and alternator and possibly others. Make sure the battery cable connectors are clean and the battery posts are clean.
To the best of my knowledge alternators no longer have a voltage regulator. Usually there is a computer module that regulates the alternator.
Does this help: Google Search
To the best of my knowledge alternators no longer have a voltage regulator. Usually there is a computer module that regulates the alternator.
Does this help: Google Search
Sorry for the terse question... the intent was to check on the 12V battery health. Older? Newer? Holding charge up around 12.5V most of the time without the engine running?
12.96V is nice and high, but likely related to recent charging and hasn't drained off the "surface" charge yet. Something I read, not something I understand.
The "inconsistency" is troubling...
12.96V is nice and high, but likely related to recent charging and hasn't drained off the "surface" charge yet. Something I read, not something I understand.
The "inconsistency" is troubling...
[EDIT]
What do you mean "non-running" but loaded. Turn radio on, fan, headlights without starting engine? Did this. With headlights on, radio, fan and engine off, battery reading is 11.8v
So, after more thorough observation/checking, without the engine started, battery voltage is at 12.96V. The warning lights turning on has inconsistency. There are times lights will be on as soon as you start the engine. Other times it's after you shift from PARK to REVERSE
What do you mean "non-running" but loaded. Turn radio on, fan, headlights without starting engine? Did this. With headlights on, radio, fan and engine off, battery reading is 11.8v
So, after more thorough observation/checking, without the engine started, battery voltage is at 12.96V. The warning lights turning on has inconsistency. There are times lights will be on as soon as you start the engine. Other times it's after you shift from PARK to REVERSE
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