To follow up... still have not been driving my car except short distances, but now need to repair (or correct) soon.. Will be calling SOA shortly. Just wondering if anybody in this forum, thinks the dealer could've screwed up the brake lamp recall (or, outside chance, not done anything at all)?.. resulting in my current technical issue? I have recently read a few negative reviews about the dealership that performed the recalls on my Crosstrek.

 

There has been many reports of the brake light switch not being adjusted properly causing issues.I haven't heard of that causing the paddle shifters to stop working.However,most people never use them so maybe they just didn't notice they weren't working.

 

You could have a bad battery that isn't taking a full charge. I haven't experienced it with a Crosstrek, but I know the newer Honda CRV's bring up all sorts of unrelated alarms when the battery starts to fail. The fact that the engine still starts does NOT mean the battery is ok.

Not driving much would exacerbate the situation. A flooded cell vehicle battery at rest should never read below 12.2 volts, as the plates in the cells will start to sulfate prematurely. Check your battery voltage with a digital voltmeter with the engine shut off and no load on the battery. Here's a chart that gives a guide to battery condition:

 

You could have a bad battery that isn't taking a full charge. I haven't experienced it with a Crosstrek, but I know the newer Honda CRV's bring up all sorts of unrelated alarms when the battery starts to fail. The fact that the engine still starts does NOT mean the battery is ok.

Not driving much would exacerbate the situation. A flooded cell vehicle battery at rest should never read below 12.2 volts, as the plates in the cells will start to sulfate prematurely. Check your battery voltage with a digital voltmeter with the engine shut off and no load on the battery. Here's a chart that gives a guide to battery condition:

True, although I found it very difficult to keep our OEM battery over 12.2V with normal driving. I did a lot of experiments, trying to get a dash cam working in parking mode. I eventually replaced it with an AGM and they have a slightly different state of charge profile:

Worth looking into though...

 

I had a loose air hose and my cruise control quit working

 

Thanks for the suggestions. We determined our battery to be in good shape.

Our local mechanic determined codes to be P700 (generic transmission control - MIL request); C1431 (TCM Fault); C1422 (VDC Interruption for "Engine Convenience");
**MOST RELEVENT code: C2763 (Lock Up Duty Solenoid Circuit High; other solenoid issues).
Indications: valve body and/or TCM (transmission control module) issue.
He said dealer needed to make repairs or "flash"/reset codes.)
All the aforementioned lights and glitches were happening because Crosstrek went into "safe mode" to coerce us to get into the dealership/repair shop pronto, although a flashing CEL light would be even more serious - ours was not flashing.

Called SOA and said I was concerned whether these codes indicated a common problem resulting from the two recalls - brake light switch, and valve springs replacement. SOA offered $400 towing cost into Subaru dealership to figure out- 2 hours away. Called dealership for appointment and also found out SOA would likely balk at repair cost because CVT-related repairs (extended warranty) would have to be within 100,000+ miles or happen by 2023. Our XV has over 122K. The Subaru dealership said if codes were accurate, valve body needed replacement (nothing to do with recalls) and would cost about $1300, including $175 diagnosis. They would keep car two to three days and loaner would cost $30/day. I had planned to request from SOA to cover loaner costs. Also, dealership said manager would request repair cost coverage, but doubtful SOA would cover.

We decided to research a couple of import mechanics closer to us. Found a mechanic/NAPA repair shop a half hour away who diagnosed same codes for $150. Then, repaired and replaced broken valve body and related solenoids with genuine Subaru kit ordered from aforementioned Subaru dealership... A four-part system as I understand it. NAPA two-year repair warranty includes official Subaru warranty for their valve kit. The NAPA shop felt this issue is common Subaru problem because the dealership had at least four kits in stock.

Subaru valve kit about $800+ plus other parts. Billed $1118 plus $150 diagnosis = total about $1270.
So, no big savings versus dealership, but time saved from dealing with a towing service, a loaner and getting back a forth for repair two hours away. Also, not sure if SOA would've helped out with loaner or repair/part cost, so decided to take care of it out of pocket, locally...Ouch. Time and (in)convenience is money. We also took calculated risk to drive, not tow, 35 miles to the repair shop.

Everything works great now and back to normal.

Hope this helps some of you. If your car has less than 100,000 miles and has these issues, get it fixed by 2023 and there's some chance SOA will pay for any CVT-issue repair.

 

Hi when you say have it repaired by 2023, doe it mean CVT repairs will still be covered even if you are out of standard warranty coverage>?... cheers

 

I know this post is dated but I hope my situation can help someone. I have a 2014 Forester with 133,000 miles. Recently got the Christmas Tree dash of AT oil temp, hill assist, ABS, traction control. Intermittent at first then consistent. When lights were on and driving at any speed rpms would drop to 1000 when foot was removed from the gas pedal. Other than that drove fine, car has always been jerky since we got it a year ago.
After plugging in my Autel scanner 1 code was in the transmission for the solenoid Value high. I knew it was the valve body after some quick research. I found that Subaru extended warranty to 100k.
Went to my local dealer for official diagnosis and documentation. They said of course it needs a valve body $1500 plus labor plus new fluid $250.
I responded “so Subaru won’t do anything with this?”
Dealer “no, and your way over 100k so there’s nothing I can do but you can contact. Subaru corporate and see if they will help you.”
They were completing the rear spring recall too, so 20 minutes later the service advisor came out and said she had some news.
She said she had her manger contact their regional rep at Subaru of America and he agreed to to cover the repair in full because it’s such a common problem. The only stipulation was he requested a fluid change that I would have to cover because it’s considered a normal maintenance item.
In the end I paid $262 out the door with new fluid, valve body, rear springs.
I hope this information helps someone, thx. If anyone is curious I Live in RI and the dealer was Balise Subaru

 

@Joepi Thanks for the great story about SOA support! Recently, I also reconnected with Subaru of America after my last post describing how we finally resolved our Valve Body situation. Months afterwards, I thought it wouldn't hurt to follow through and ask the "SOA Advocate" that had been communicating with me earlier, if SOA would be open to contributing financially to the Valve Body repair even though I did not go to an official Subaru dealership and even though our Crosstrek was sitting at over 100,000 miles; also, given the NAPA mechanic had ordered the official Subaru part/valve body; plus, ultimately I saved SOA the $400 they had offered to cover towing to the dealership a couple hundred miles away.

Long story short (and a great ender!): SOA, through my assigned "advocate", agreed to reimburse me $750.00 toward the valve body repair*... basically covering the cost of the part. The advocate said she wanted to offer support for the experience we had to endure and hopefully contribute to ongoing loyalty to the Subaru brand.

* We were asked to submit photocopies of our repair estimate and invoice from the mechanic; also, I voluntarily included a photo of the barcode from the new Subaru Valve Body box, which contained the old faulty part, which we had requested to be returned.

Indeed, we will be looking into buying a Forester in the future.

Love... Is What Makes A Subaru!

 

It seems they have been at least giving half off or 1k off very often on these valve body replacements they seem to be the most common issue with the cvt.

Always call Subaru of America and try to get some money back towards it, they seem to usually offer some money.

 

I've talked to Subaru Canada about this. Most service bulletins issued by SOA apply in Canada, but not necessarily all.
Ask your dealer about the TSB in question and they can tell you.

 

I've talked to Subaru Canada about this. Most service bulletins issued by SOA apply in Canada, but not necessarily all.
Ask your dealer about the TSB in question and they can tell you.

Appreciate your reply mate. Very vital information.
My Crosstrek warning light just showed up when i press the brake pedal too far maybe while going down the ramp in reverse. My engine stalled half way down the ramp and lights comes ON. Hill Start assist, traction control, ABS and engine warning light.
At on point, my infotainment, dome lights, central locking were gone as well but i manage to have it sorted.
With the lights ON, i tried moving the car forward and felt the front wheels draggging/loosing traction. And then the AT temp light starts to flicker.
Car still drives but it felt heavy and paranoid with the red AT light flashing. Still shifting OK no issues

Hopefully my cars issue is only minor, maybe faulty BLS or ABS/Traction control sensor/switch.
I believe that ABS is piggy backed with traction control or vice versa, meaning if one is faulty, goes the other one
If brakes are dragging, AT overheating will possibly occurs

Wosrt comes to wort, if mine is same as yours, will discuss with the dealer about the Subaru Service Bulletin and see what they will say
Hopefully Australia is covered.
will keep you posted mate. also for the info for the other members

My car is only 54,749 kms...didn't miss a beat for the last 5 1/2 years
only this this...as simple as driving down the ramp slowly in reverse

 

W0w so any advice on what to start to say to SOA when i call ..??
Ive just replaced my VVT’s x 4 and now getting all warning lights on - hill assist - engine light - ect ect .. 168k 2015 xv limited with eyesight ..
had brake light switch replaced via recall at dealer last year or two ago.. acting like same issue again.
so after replacing vvt - codes indicate needing to re program my ecm or replace .. so called local subaru shop and asked and they claim i need to Replace it and have something else done to synch up or wont start either .. anticipating cost is billing me as they not called back yet..
also im thinking i may need new seals as oil getting into my dang overflow tank .. wtf .?
uhgg .. what else ..hmm codes showing are p0016 p0024 p00B p00D p0014 not always the same tho some are persistent.. but all seem to relate to vvt saying to repair/replace vvt - which i already have done .. so i hoped flashing ecm but now apparently not .:/ as now getting cam codes —
About to just dump this car ..:/ don’t want to
But also not going to get into this deep when i can use that $ for down on a new ram truck or wrangler or something .. im stuck .

 

Sorry to hear of the frustrating end to your fun day but stoked that it all worked out for you. And pleased to hear of your experience with Gold Rush Auburn--that's my dealer and I've wondered how ther service department would be once I have need.

 

Hey Mate, after experiencing very similar problems to you.
(ABS, hill assist, traction control, at oil temp, emmission and cruise control, the car jumping when accelerating over 20kms)
I received advice from the mechanic, he scanned the car with a little system checker and it came up with a bunch of codes, I have been told it is quite possibly the transmission and that it needs to be taken to the dealership so they can work it out.

My quote is more than the car is worth, I am not financially ready for this nor do I want to sell the car as I am currently paying it off.

I am considering taking my car to another mechanic for a second opinion, as I feel the transmission may not be the answer.

Please help!!

 

Wife's car had all the same warning lights except engine light. Hooked it to a code reader and it threw a 1431 code. After much research seemed to point to either valve body $2k replacement cost) or brake light pressure switch ($35 part). Decided to try the pressure switch first before taking it to a mechanic, although confirmed brake lights were working. 1/2 hr to install but all warning lights were still on. No issues with car other than paddle shifters and cruuse control not working. Planning on taking it to a mechanic on mon but needed to move my daughter over the weekend 60 miles away. On way home i heard a beep and warning lights went out! I remember reading somewhere that in sometimes it takes a while for warning lights to clear so glad i did not take to a mechanic as it would likely have cost 2k for a valve bidy replacement. Saw many articles about 1st replacing brake pressure switch, which did not make the light go out, so assumed it was valve body and had mechanic replace. Wondering if it just needed some miles to clear. Hope this helps others not make this mistake.

 

My wife's car (2017 crosstrek) is doing the same thing... got the ABS, Hill light, etc. staying on and the car won't come out of park.. starts fine but just simply will not come out of park and therefore will no go. I'm going to replace the brake switch and see what happens. I'll follow up on the result.

 

I'm happy this thread exists, it's been immensely helpful so thank you. I've been pulling my hair out over this exact same issue with my 2013 XV Crosstrek (120k miles). I thought the issue originally had to do with my battery (which died, had to jumpstart, then recharged) and/or hot weather when the warning lights fired off. I replaced the old battery which I thought fixed the problem until about 5 or 10 miles of driving until the warning lights were set off again. I finally pulled the exact same codes with an OBD Scanner P0700 & P2764. I have yet to get it officially diagnosed, but I'm pretty confident it's a solenoid issue and I'm going to need a valve body replacement.

 

I know this post is dated but I hope my situation can help someone. I have a 2014 Forester with 133,000 miles. Recently got the Christmas Tree dash of AT oil temp, hill assist, ABS, traction control. Intermittent at first then consistent. When lights were on and driving at any speed rpms would drop to 1000 when foot was removed from the gas pedal. Other than that drove fine, car has always been jerky since we got it a year ago. After plugging in my Autel scanner 1 code was in the transmission for the solenoid Value high. I knew it was the valve body after some quick research. I found that Subaru extended warranty to 100k. Went to my local dealer for official diagnosis and documentation. They said of course it needs a valve body $1500 plus labor plus new fluid $250. I responded “so Subaru won’t do anything with this?” Dealer “no, and your way over 100k so there’s nothing I can do but you can contact. Subaru corporate and see if they will help you.” They were completing the rear spring recall too, so 20 minutes later the service advisor came out and said she had some news. She said she had her manger contact their regional rep at Subaru of America and he agreed to to cover the repair in full because it’s such a common problem. The only stipulation was he requested a fluid change that I would have to cover because it’s considered a normal maintenance item. In the end I paid $262 out the door with new fluid, valve body, rear springs. I hope this information helps someone, thx. If anyone is curious I Live in RI and the dealer was Balise Subaru

Hey ! Your post might just have saved me so much money! Literally have the same exact problem with my car right now ! Out of curiosity did they ever mention why this issue occurs?

 

Just had this issue come up, and getting to this thread fast helped me and saved a ton of time. I have a 2013, under 100k.

All lights came on, with the flashing oil temp light. Got towed to a dealership, and was able to point them in this direction from the start.

Confirmed the issues, and confirmed covered up to 100k. Thanks to anyone who posted here before.

 

Hey Mobius were you still inside the 10 years? I have a 2012 but am at 99,300mi so about to call the dealership but just curious if you see this and reply. My cruise blinks, ABS and check engine on, and once driving the car will sort of hitch and the AT Oil temp starts flashing. I'm thinking it's the CVT issue commonly discussed here and maybe a O2 sensor(s) and really don't want to spend over a G...would like to avoid the dealership service dept but it seems like this type of issue is better for them than local mechanics? thank you

 

It happened to our 2016 Crosstrek at 59500 miles. Dealer repaired it under warranty. It just happened again at 146000 miles. I’m not happy.

 

Since this thread was so helpful to me and it helped me avoid a trip to the mechanic which i guarantee would have ended with a bill no less than 1k i am sharing my experience.

I am driving a 2014 subaru impreza and suddenly my “at oil temp” light starting blinking and the lights came on for my uphill and abs

its over 100k miles and i know its a matter of time before the transmission starts failing but i looked at some of the solutions on this thread and found that sometimes a faulty battery can set off these signals and i found white powder built up on one of the pos/neg terminals. i unscrewed it, tapped the white cake build up off and rescrewed it and since then the lights have not returned. tomorrow im buying a new battery and it should run for at least a little while longer.

Thank you everyone for your replies and posts, you’re amazing! Except for the people who just “took it to the dealership and it was fixed,” very unhelpful. By!

 

Has anyone tried replacing your ground wires, battery cables, etc.??

 

Has anyone connected this issue to the faulty TCM? 2013 Crosstrek here. Took it in for Key/stuck in ignition issue (98,000 mi) and told them to check for issues with the TCM because there was an intermittent clicking sound coming from under shifter when approaching stop lights. They had my car for weeks because they only had one technician that could pull the engine to fix the key issue. I get it back and was so glad they fixed a list of issues. A year later- Dash lights up. I take it in-drivability fine except for the burnt trans oil smell. Same guy behind counter. He never noted the problem and I can't expect him to remember. Of course, now a code pops up indicating TCM. Embarrassed to say- my Grand Cherokee made the same sound and they replaced it without hesitation..

 

I have been having issues with my 2014 Forester since Nov 2022 where all the lights come on - ABS, engine light, uphill assist, cruise control. My local dealership has been fixing a plethora of issues every time. I first replaced the A/F sensor, had the CVT trans removed, cleaned, dried, resealed, and a decarb, fuel-injection kit redone for a whopping $2217. Then I went back in in Feb 2023 for the same set of lights and that time, they installed a new exhaust manifold and replaced the gaskets for another $865. The array of lights came on again in May 2023 and that time they only updated my software (it apparently should have been done but hadn't the previous time I was in). No charge for that one. The lights came on again the following month (June 2023) and that time they adjusted my break lamp switch saying it wasn't always making contact. The lights came on again in Oct 2023 and it was recommended that I replace the mass air flow sensor (replaced it myself). Went back in this month for the same lights (plus the At Oil Temp light) and was told to replaced both O2 sensors, wheel bearings and resealed axels (because apparently those mechanical issues could also cause the engine lights to come on) and paid $2400. Less than 75 miles after picking up my car, the same set of lights came on (this time the at oil temp light did not come on, just the uphill assist, abs, engine, etc), my car did a weird thing where the whole dash flashed and then it shut off, took it in immediately, and was told that the transmission valve body needed to be replaced. I ordered the part and got it done (another $2000), called SOA but they said I was too far out of the 10 year, 100k warranty to help me. My car is at 122k miles. I picked up my car yesterday and it's shuddering a bit. This morning the dashboard flashed at me and it felt like it was going to shut off (I was coming to a stop at a stop sign). What are your recommendations?

 

I'm adding a note for a 2017 Forester. This has happened quite a few times. I noticed everyone panics and gets towed/thousands of dollars in transmission repairs, etc. The Christmas tree of lights has happened to me about a half dozen times from 50k to 150k miles. Maybe nobody will like this approach but I just keep driving.... and guess what happends in a few days or a few weeks? ...the ligts go off and don't appear again for 15k miles or more and then the same cycle again. Sure you don't have ABS and hill assist for a brief time but it seems to drive normal otherwise, and to me the Subaru fixes aren't really fixes and just expensive repairs that also temporarily cause the lights to go off. That means I've gone a 100k miles or more even though I needed transmission repairs? Seems unlikely. More like a sensor that throws an error at random every once in a while.

 

Welcome to the Crosstrek Forums @markharris_7 .

Please note @mobius01 one and only visit to this site WAS back on October in 2023...

 

Thank you Chris! Hoping for the best and expecting the worst here haha, take care. I'll share what happens either way, seems like a semi-common thing. I may have to wait to take in the car until mid-next week now. ✌