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Subaru Crosstrek 2017 - Wheel & Tire Sizes, PCD, Offset and Rims specs

Subaru Crosstrek 2017 - Find out the correct alloy wheel fitment, PCD, offset and such specs as bolt pattern, thread size(THD), center bore(CB) for Subaru Crosstrek 2017

www.wheel-size.com

 

My car is a 2018, and I think the wheel specs may be different than yours.

I put American Racing wheels with winter tires on the Crosstrek this year. A couple of comments about them. First, they are great looking wheels! The workmanship and quality seems excellent. They are made in China. I had to wait about 8 weeks for mine to be made and shipped. Purchased via Tirerack, which did not show them as a custom order which required the wait.

Overall, I would not buy them again, though. And not from Tirerack even though I've bought a bunch of tires and other wheel/tire sets from them. Here's why:

• The holes the lug nuts fit into are very narrow. The factory lug wrench won't fit. The cross-wrench barely fits, and it does scratch the paint in and near the holes. I had to buy a thin-walled impact socket. And now I have to carry that socket and a socket wrench in the car during winter in case I have to change the tire!
• The center bore is not a tight fit onto the hub. While this is not a disaster, it makes it really annoying to put the wheel onto the car. The center of the hub sticks out a bit, and normally the center of the wheel slips pretty tightly over it and holds the wheel centered while you put on the lug nuts. The American Racing center bore has a beveled edge which is as deep as the hub sticks out. So while the spec sheet says the center bore of the wheel is 1mm larger than the diameter of the hub, in reality the beveled edge makes it way bigger. But a centering ring cannot be used because it is a bevel not a straight walled bore. If that description doesn't make sense, picture two empty soup cans. If one is larger than the other, it can slip over the smaller one. The smaller one is the hub on your car, the larger is the hole bored in the center of the wheel. If the larger soup can is just barely larger than the smaller can, it will jiggle into place and be well centered. That is how a bore-centered wheel fits. But this wheel is like a large soup can much bigger than the smaller can, so it doesn't hold position.
• Due to the bore issue and the tiny holes for lug nuts, it is very fiddling to get the lug nuts threaded and then tightened. Until several nuts are moderately tightened the wheel will not be centered on the threaded studs. This means your wrench or socket will be rubbing the inside of the holes and scraping paint. No, the sockets with a protective plastic sleeve do not fit so they do not solve the issue.
• Also due to the bore size issue, the wheel is "lug-centered", meaning you have to carefully and incrementally tighten the lug nuts to get the wheel properly centered. Not rocket science but something to be aware of.
• All 4 wheels have a lot of weights on them for balance. Now it could be the tires are the culprit, but it could be the wheels are not well balanced inherently. It may indicate an inconsistency in wheel manufacturing.

As to why I wouldn't buy them again from Tirerack

• They didn't tell me until about 3 weeks after the order was placed that it would be another few weeks, which turned out to be actually another month+
• At least one of the wheels is out of balance at highway speeds. I have to go to a local shop to get them rebalanced. Tirerack will pay the bill, but this is a real inconvenience. Fwiw, another wheel/tire set from Tirerack also has some highway balance issues but not so bad. Their balancing doesn't seem so great to me.

If you do buy the American Racing wheels from Tirerack, do not use the lug nuts they send. I do not know what brand they are, but they are worse than junk. Labelled Made In China. They ruined the first few studs I put them on. Something about the threading was not quite right. I've been changing tires on cars since the 1960's, so I am not inexperienced. The nuts went on about 10 turns then started feeling snug. When I put the wrench to them they tightened in 1 turn but felt a bit spongy. When I went to back one off it was stuck tight. When I got them off, a bunch of metal shaving came out, from the buggered up threads. Long story short, I had to replace the studs on the car and buy new lug nuts. Get McGard lug nuts.

 

There are a few after market wheels that can use factory supplied lug nuts and you may be able to use the factory wrench as well. Most after market wheels have smaller lug nut bores and require thin walled lug nuts. If you use regular lug nuts and wrench, you will damage the lug nut holes. And if you manage to start the regular lug nuts, especially with impact tools or even continue cranking manually, you will potentially end up damaging the stud threads as well.

No affiliation with Tire Rack, but I have purchased wheels, tires and combos from Tire Rack a few times and have not been disappointed. They will ship you the hub centric rings that are compatible with the wheel/original vehicle bore combination. They typically include a spline drive Gorilla lug nut kit which includes the thin walled lug nut key. I am not sure whether they have switched brands in the last 2 to 3 years.

With respect to the hub centric rings, the wheel mounting surface should sit flush with the hub if the hub centric rings were installed correctly. If the wheel does not sit flush, there is something wrong, the hub centric ring was installed backwards on the hub, or the hub centric rings are not the correct part for your application. Note, the hub centric rings mount to the wheel flush, not the hub, then the flush wheel/ring combo mounts flush to the hub.

Separately, you should use the original lug nuts on the temporary spare wheel (in case of a puncture). Always carry 5 OEM lug nuts in your stash of tire tools in the rear.

 

They will ship you the hub centric rings that are compatible with the wheel/original vehicle bore combination. They typically include a spline drive Gorilla lug nut kit which includes the thin walled lug nut key. I am not sure whether they have switched brands in the last 2 to 3 years.

The 2 sets of wheels/tires I purchased this autumn did not come with Gorilla lug nuts, nor were they splined. No-name but stamped "Made in China". I believe the threads were not cut completely, so the diameter narrowed deeper down. The first 10 turns or so they went on normally, then they bound up. Lots of metal shavings were evident deep in the nuts.

The expensive wheels came with lug bolts actually for that application. They seemed good quality. Note that those wheels also have the semi-round mating surface, not the tapered conical surface. Anyhow, the BBS shipped with good quality lug bolts.

I will opine the Subaru OEM lug studs seem lower quality than the Dorman replacements. Perhaps crummy Subaru studs and cheap Chinese nuts was a failing combination. I highly recommend McGard lug nuts on the Subaru.

With respect to the hub centric rings, the wheel mounting surface should sit flush with the hub if the hub centric rings were installed correctly. If the wheel does not sit flush, there is something wrong, the hub centric ring was installed backwards on the hub, or the hub centric rings are not the correct part for your application. Note, the hub centric rings mount to the wheel flush, not the hub, then the flush wheel/ring combo mounts flush to the hub.

Hub rings would not work on the American Standard wheels and the Subaru hub. The chamfered edge of the wheel bore prevents a ring from being installed where it would be needed. A ring could be installed deeper into the bore but then it would not mate to the Subaru hub (which only sticks out about 1/4")

But in fact the American Standard bore is the correct size if it weren't for the bevel they put on the edge of it.

The BBS wheels for my other car came from Tirerack with centering rings installed that work well.

Separately, you should use the original lug nuts on the temporary spare wheel (in case of a puncture). Always carry 5 OEM lug nuts in your stash of tire tools in the rear.

Yes! I put a laminated explanation in the wheel well with the spare parts, and printed paper version tucked into the owner's manual. That way if anyone else is driving the car when the spare needs to be put on they will have clear instructions and warnings to use the correct parts.

 

Also, you will have to calculate the offset and rim width to be sure the new rims won't rub anywhere. There are a bunch of wheel offset calculators on the internet. 1010tires.com has one that is easy to use.

Of consideration is the wheel itself rubbing a suspension or brake component, or the tire rubbing something. If you go with a factory standard tire size you don't have to add to the complexity of calculations. If you go to a larger tire you get into unknown territory (and thus the threads on this forum about what fits without rubbing).

A smaller offset sticks out more, and is probably ok. A larger offset sits further inside the wheel well, and thus might rub suspension or other parts. How much you can get away with is a good question, but one could guess you have 1/2" based on the factory options (some Subaru wheels are 7.5" or 8" wide). But even that is just a guess, because the tire width is important too, not just the metal wheel itself.

I would guess but not guarantee that you have a good inch to mess with by going to a bigger offset. Realize that this larger offset will sit further inside the wheel well, so from an appearance standpoint you may want to minimize how much bigger your offset is if you're using a Subaru tire size.

25mm to an inch.

It looks like your OEM 17" rim is a 7" width. If you get a 7" wide wheel, within 13mm on the offset and you should remain within the envelope of factory option wheels and tires. The original spec is 48mm on a 7" wide rim, so you could go maybe an offset as large as 61mm on a 7" wide wheel without rubbing something on the inside of the wheel well.

If you choose a 7.5" wide wheel, I would try to not go much above the factory offset of 48. You could in theory go up to about 54mm offset on the 7.5" wide rim and be ok.

When you go to a wider rim, the tire will still be the same width at the tread, just the wheel will be wider. But the offset is based on the center of the wheel. Thus for the same offset, if you go to a 7.5" wheel instead of the 7" wheel, the inside of the wheel is 1/4" further into the wheel well and the outside of the wheel sticks out 1/4" further. So when you calculate offset you have to bounce it against the wheel width, too.

Going down in offset with the same size tire should be safe. Go too far and the wheels will stick out and look goofy.

I went with 17x7.5 wheels with 10mm less offset than OEM. 10mm is just a bit under 1/2". So the tire sits about 1/2" further out. The outer edge of the rim sits about 3/4" further out, and the inner edge of the rim sits about 1/4" further out. So, no threat of rubbing suspension or wheel well.

So, bottom line to this mess of numbers: You can safely go to a smaller offset (assuming you are using a tire size within Subaru's specs). It will stick out a bit more but shouldn't rub anything. Something in the range of 35mm offset will give you around 1/2" to 3/4" sticking further out, which from an appearance standpoint will look beefier but not stupid. 35mm to 48mm would be the range I would be looking at.

If you go larger on offset, you have to worry about rubbing something inside the wheel well. In a 17x7 wheel I think you are ok up to 61mm. In a 17x7.5 wheel you are probably ok up to about 54mm. But I would try to avoid offsets larger than 50mm just for appearances.

 

For reference, this is the center of the American Standard wheels. The deep bore is the correct diameter for Subaru hubs, but that bevel is as deep as the hub sticks out. No centering ring can be installed in the bevel.

 

Most aftermarket wheels will have that angled machined surface. The hub centric rings should snap in and fit perfectly into the bore with the outer edge of the ring matched to the angled edge of the wheel bore. Are you saying that bore of the wheel in the picture is 56.1 mm and matches the Subaru hub? What is the dimension of the wheel bore?