I would change it. Personally. Just Me

 

is there any reason to change sooner other than a warm and fuzzy feeling?

Have you, or a shop, ever topped off the coolant with anything other than Subaru Super Coolant? If so that would be a reason to change it now.

 

There are lots of posts here by folks who think it's good to change oil or whatever earlier or more frequently than the manual says. I'd rather pay attention to the Subaru engineers than the armchair quarterbacks on the Internet.

Generally I agree to change as the owner's manual says. However, 11 years is a long time for any coolant to be in a car. Sort of reminds me of GM's 100,000 mile spark plugs. Yes, the plugs may last that long. However, in that amount of time, there is a good chance the plug threads may be seized in the engine.

 

When I installed the block heater I used that spill free funnel, worked awesome! I was very impressed. I didn't even need to burp the system.

 

There are lots of posts here by folks who think it's good to change oil or whatever earlier or more frequently than the manual says. I'd rather pay attention to the Subaru engineers than the armchair quarterbacks on the Internet.

 

Our 2015, Premium and Limited were both changed out around the 5th year. There were points when we had to add 1/4 gallon over hot summers due to temps, not each season just over all. Read up on how-to filtre out bubbles in the system. Look for cold shut down points and do not panic when the reserve point dips really low. Check it when fully warm. Overfilling is worse than a touch low then max. You can buy mixed OEM. But if you think it need water, make certain it is distilled.

The mixture is important to the head gasket integrity and can compromise that as well. Have the dealership check the mix level or a certified centre. Auto Zone has the ability as well as Monroe, NAPA, etc.

 

Our 2015, Premium and Limited were both changed out around the 5th year. There were points when we had to add 1/4 gallon over hot summers due to temps, not each season just over all. Read up on how-to filtre out bubbles in the system. Look for cold shut down points and do not panic when the reserve point dips really low. Check it when fully warm. Overfilling is worse than a touch low then max. You can buy mixed OEM. But if you think it need water, make certain it is distilled.

The mixture is important to the head gasket integrity and can compromise that as well. Have the dealership check the mix level or a certified centre. Auto Zone has the ability as well as Monroe, NAPA, etc.

All my Subarus have needed a little added coolant once in a while... but I never use water of any kind. I use only the 50/50 premixed Subaru Super Coolant as specified in the OM. The top off to the Full mark is also done when the engine is cool.

 

It's interesting that the first coolant change is 11 years / 137.5k miles but subsequent coolant changes are 6 years / 75k miles according to the Subaru recommended maintenance schedule.

 

Well I made the executive decision to change...mfg date 2014, brings me to 9 years, change 2 years a early....

Pulled the petcock and only about a gallon came out...Any suggestions? (Thinking that is why after the first change the schedule is shortened as there is always dilution.

 

Did you remove the radiator caps? There are two on this car. That should reduce air pockets. Do you intend to do a flush?

 

2 radiator caps? Not aware of a second. I will look. The service manual only denotes the one.
Usually my previous vehicles I used one of those kits, a "T" inline on the heater hose, my concerns with those is the residual of tap water that remains. (minerals and such)
Thought that ifI could get 95%+ of the old coolant out and it looked good, I would just add in 2 gal of pre-diluted flavor.

 

2 radiator caps? Not aware of a second. I will look. The service manual only denotes the one.

Well OK, not on the radiator itself. But that cap next to the dipstick is part of the cooling system.

 

...just looked, I don't have that second cap, just the one at the radiator.
I let it drain over night and measured 7 QTS, given the capacity to be 8.5, not sure if it's possible to get the remaining coolant from the nooks and crannies.

 

...just looked, I don't have that second cap, just the one at the radiator.

Hmmm. That must be something on only the 2nd generation or FB20D engines. I believe your engine is the FB20B.

 

Different pressures, different valves. It's too late now to explain... if you haven't found the system operation by then I'll explain tomorrow.

The main thing is... do not mix them up if you have two caps... keep the lower pressure one on the upper radiator tank by the expansion tank... or the engine will overheat.

The caps look exactly alike---but the one near the oil dipstick says 137kPa and the one near the overflow reservoir says 108kPa--lower pressure.

 

Take another look.

Not sure your point. That's what I said... your quote is accurate. What's the question?

However, the caps do not "look exactly alike" ... not only is the pressure rating different, as you acknowledge, but the high pressure one (137kPa) near the dipstick is round, meaning without "ears," and the lower pressure one (108kPa} on the radiator has ears. So two separate differences.

Glad yours are in the correct locations.... that is, the higher pressure one is in the lower [meaning relative to one another, measured from the plane the tires are on which should be close to level (meaning, being a surface perpendicular to all lines of force in Earth's gravity field like the surface of still water] and the lower pressure one is in the higher position. So you're good.

Also, if you ever have the two caps in your hands you will find that they are built differently inside as well. That's three differences between them.

Just keep them in the locations you've described and you'll remain good.