Open hood and see if compressor kicks off when it starts to blow warm air, that way you know if it is a refrigerant or A/C issue, or possible a damper issue.

 

After running your AC do you see condensation dripping under your car? If not then it's possible your drain is blocked, when the tray fills the AC cuts out (I've seen this in other cars, an Avalon had a kinked line and another car that had a bolt screwed into it. My theory is oil change shop workers don't want to get dripped on and forget to unblock the hose.)

 

All good suggestions above:wink:

You might also want to purchase a Temperature probe to be able to place it inside you main dash vents (Yuuup like the ones that you seen used on a Turkey) Not the IR type..

Also here's a question your car is now 5 model years old, all things require regular maintenance, and just like you (may/may not) own your own home, Homes typically get regular Service maintenance, Furnace inspected Before heating season/ Air Conditioning same thing.

Cars Are no different, Dealers typically will look for the obvious, drain blockage, any signs of oil sweating off from fittings, or is this case be able to hook the A/C cart to your car and BE ABLE to Measure the Freon Level in the system( pressure operating at ). If low, which by the way it might possibly be, as those symptoms you have spoken about Might indicate....

Always look for the Simple things first, Preventive Maintenance is just that, keeps you and your car/house from losing its Cool:eusa_clap:

Troutbum

 

My wife's '14 Crosstrek had the same problem. Took it in for service, they emptied the system, pumped it down and recharged it with their leak detector "freon"(generic term - R134a is the refrigerant) and found two orings were leaking. Orings replaced, system recharged. $400. When I inquired about the orings going bad their answer was they just go bad with age. Being a chemist who works in the refrigerant business I asked about material of construction and compatability with the refrigerant, and was met with deer in headlights looks. I also sent a letter to Subaru asking about the material of construction but never received a response. My guess is the orings are probably made of Neoprene because it's cheap. Viton would be a better choice but costs a little more. In the future if we have A/C problems with her '14 or my '18 I'll purchase my own orings and do the fix myself.
Good luck.

 

My wife's '14 Crosstrek had the same problem. Took it in for service, they emptied the system, pumped it down and recharged it with their leak detector "freon"(generic term - R134a is the refrigerant) and found two orings were leaking. Orings replaced, system recharged. $400. When I inquired about the orings going bad their answer was they just go bad with age. Being a chemist who works in the refrigerant business I asked about material of construction and compatability with the refrigerant, and was met with deer in headlights looks. I also sent a letter to Subaru asking about the material of construction but never received a response. My guess is the orings are probably made of Neoprene because it's cheap. Viton would be a better choice but costs a little more. In the future if we have A/C problems with her '14 or my '18 I'll purchase my own orings and do the fix myself.
Good luck.

I might disagree on the Viton and go with EPDM instead. I get better life as Viton tends to swell too much over time.

 

I have owned my My 2014 Crosstrek for less than 3 years --it sat in the dealer's lot for a long time, since it is orange. Even now, it only has 39k miles. The AC has never worked right, and last summer I took it to the dealer, He recharged the freon and sent me on my way. But after 10 minutes on the road, it was blowing warm again. I work 2 jobs, and it's a 100 mile round trip to the dealer, so AC ws not a priority

Big heat wave here, so last week I brought it to a local shop. He told me the freon was OVER filled. He drained it, and sent me on my way. Once again it works for about 10 minutes at a time, but then blows warm. This is costing $. I do have an extended warranty that covers all the AC components...but diagnosing the problem is the issue!

 

Double posting to multiple threads (even starting a new one) is against forum rules. Please refrain from doing this again in the future.

 

Had the exact same issue. The problem is the AC clutch. It wears out over time. When you turn on the AC and the pressure builds, the clutch slips so you lose your AC. This is very common on Subaru's, tons of threads on the other forums, lots of videos on YouTube. The XV is somewhat new so not as many have had this happen yet but it is just a matter of time. The "clutch air gap" should be between .016" and .025" (.4mm-.7mm). Mine was around .025" and I was having issues with it slipping.

You have several options all of which I obtained from the other forums. The easiest and what will test to see if this is indeed your issue is to shim the stock clutch. Don't laugh but it actually works. What you need to do is find yourself some shim material. I made mine out of a heavy plastic wiper fluid jug. One guy used a CD case. You cut 3 rectangular pieces and place them between the 3 rubber bumpers and the front plate of the clutch. After inserted, you must verify that the clutch can still spin free and that you didn't use too thick of a shim. You don't want the clutch to drag. When the car is started and the AC or Defrost is off, the clutch should not be turning. This worked like a charm. It also proves there is nothing wrong with your compressor or charge. Just be careful of the shim size and also when inserting that you don't cut the rubber bumpers.

The second option is to remove a factory shim from the clutch. You take the center bolt of the clutch out and them remove the clutch. Behind it there are generally 2 shims. This is how the factory controls the air gap. You can remove one and most likely obtain the correct gap. Lots of videos how to but ours is even easier than the other Subaru's in that the clutch is not pressed onto the shaft. Remove the center screw and the clutch comes right off (at least on the DKV10Z it does). You do however have to use a tool to prevent it from spinning when you loosen and tighten the bolt. I bought the tool, it's triangle shape, 3 pins engage holes in the clutch to prevent it from spinning. Was $10 or so.

Lastly, Subaru does not offer the clutch by itself. They will only sell the entire compressor. You can however buy one brand new on Ebay for around $100-120. You have to check the sticker on the compressor to be sure you get the correct model. There are cheaper ones on Amazon and Ebay but they are not the correct part (at least in my case). Don't go by it saying it fits a XV, use the model on the compressor sticker. Mine was a DKV10Z Compressor with the grey plug not the DKV10R that is listed in the cheaper listings. This is a little more involved in that in addition to removing the clutch, you also have to remove and replace the pulley. So in addition to the tool to prevent it from spinning, you will need some kind of gear puller. A lot of kids use a hammer in the videos but that is very bad and can blow out your seals.

I did buy a replacement clutch but the shims worked so well, I just haven't installed it yet. I had planned on doing a write up with pictures but was going to do it with the clutch install as well. When I asked here a few months back about this issue, the reply's were to take it to the dealer. Yeah right, $1500+ vs free or $120 for a new clutch. As I mentioned, this is a common issue with Subaru's.There is a lot of info out there about it which I tried to sum up in this post.

Here is a video that shows where the shims go. His (not my video) shims are very crude but it gives an idea where to place them. As mentioned, be careful you don't cut the rubber bumpers when slipping them into place. Mine have been in there for several months and not moved at all.

 

I've noticed that one of the rubber tab was missing and the other 2 looked like they are gonna fall off any minute. 3D printed a shim to see how it'll hold up.

The clutch gap was too large on the side the rubber was missing.

 

Was the problem resolved with your shim?

 

In 2021 I had a similar problem with my 2014 XV Crosstrek and had o-rings and expansion valve replaced for over $400. Two years later, when same symptoms of intermittent cooling occurring, the diagnosis is to replace the compressor and condenser for $2K. I don't even know if this is a diagnosis and fix or just a replace it and hope that does it. What the hell has happened to Subaru reliability???!!

 

If you are familiar with feeler gauges, measure the air gap between the clutch plate and pulley. As previously mentioned, the factory air gap should be between 0.016-0.025 inch/0.4-0.6 mm. If the air gap is larger then a diy shim placed behind the three buttons of the flex strap should reduce the air gap. If the air gap increases over time, the flex straps may not flex enough for clutch plate engagement to the pulley face, resulting in slipping and premature wear. Overheating of the clutch may also result in the electric clutch coil's thermal fuse to open, disabling the compressor altogether. If the thermal fuse in the coil is blown, replacement of the clutch coil is needed unless the thermal fuse is replaceable. There are separate clutch coil/plate assemblies but that depends on who distributes them. Most repair shops make profits on replacing the entire compressor and the obligatory combination receiver/filter/drier/accumulator - the little canister next to the condenser coil unless its integrated into the condenser coil ($$-$$$). Ac repairs are unforgiving of mistakes and not for the average diyer as it requires knowledge of refrigeration, diagnosing, troubleshooting, repair methods and using an electric vacuum pump and gauges to restore ac back to factory condition, the aim of all repairs.

 

For r134a systems, the standard green colored O-rings - HNBR (hydrogenated nitric butadiene) rubber material is the replacement of choice. However, most diyers unfamiliar with ac repairs may not know that PAG oil is the lubricant but not used for O-ring lube as pag oil is hygroscopic (readily absorbs moisture). If used as O-ring lube during repairs, moisture will be absorbed and eventually corrode aluminum fittings resulting in leaks. R12 mineral oil is recommended for r134a O-ring lube as mineral oil does not absorb moisture.

If Subaru compressors have this weakness of premature clutch plate wear, increasing the factory air gap of 0.016-0.025 inch or 0.4 - 0.6 mm, either removing factory shims, if any, from the clutch hub or the diy method of adding shims to the three buttons of the flex straps. The three flexible straps allows the clutch plate to move axially towards the electromagnetic coil behind the pulley to engage the pulley for compressor operation. The air gap allows the disengaged, unpowered clutch plate to move away from the continuously spinning pulley when the engine's running. As a member in another forum, premature clutch plate wear was never an issue. However, leaks from normal wear and tear do turn diyers into ac repairmen as soon as the refill kits are bought from auto stores in hopes of a cheap fix. Unfortunately, repairs in a can rarely work and those containing sealer may do more damage resulting in a larger repair bill as contaminated systems with sealer is flushed out along with oil and any debris.

GM uses factory installed fluorescent dye to allow virtually anyone with an inexpensive uv blacklight to find leaks; invisible refrigerant cannot be seen but lubricating oil can but can be confused with motor oil. Dye glows under uv illumination and easy to find. I doubt any dealer or repair shop will share this information to customers when its easier to declare "Your compressor failed and replacement along with miscellaneous parts will cost $$$-$$$$". Compressors as a rule rarely fails when 97% of vehicle ac system failures are due to the leak no one wants to address. I do not know if Subaru installs dye during factory installation. A simple peek into the two ac service valves will tell as dye and oil will eventually seep out. GM dye is greenish yellow. Subaru? The service caps, closed tightly, are the main seals against leaks as the schrader (tire) valves aren't 100% perfect in sealing against standby pressures or high operating pressures exceeding 200 psi.

I've already looked at my service valves in my new Sport using r1234yf and do not see any signs of oil or dye. Perhaps too early to see expected leaks (calculated as approximately 10 grams per year). Other Subaru owners with r134a systems may offer their observations.

 

Very disappointed with a brand I was told I could trust! My new Subaru Forester 2.5i Premium used car I just purchased from CarMax had the A/C goes out on way to the 98 degree SC Beach. We are now on a third repair-replacement of compressor and one replacement Condenser so fingers crossed. The key fab also not working after they said they fixed the self starter switch. Just disappointed and incredibly frustrated now that I have read that Subaru did not put money into their A/C systems and 2018 models are recalled for condenser issues! Never getting one again.

 

I've been following this since the A/C on my MY14 has been having the same issues of not consistently blowing cool.

I popped my hood today to have a look at the clutch, and imagine my surprise to see that of the little rubber pucks, 1 was completely gone, and the other 2 seemed as if they were almost rotted away. Is there any way to actually buy those rubber pucks, or is my best bet to try the plastic shims fix?

 

I've been following this since the A/C on my MY14 has been having the same issues of not consistently blowing cool.

I popped my hood today to have a look at the clutch, and imagine my surprise to see that of the little rubber pucks, 1 was completely gone, and the other 2 seemed as if they were almost rotted away. Is there any way to actually buy those rubber pucks, or is my best bet to try the plastic shims fix?

I had the same problem in my ‘14. I bought an A/C Clutch Holding tool to remove the plate and then remove a shim. After that everything was smooth sailing and the clutch would engage as expected. I bought per the recommendation of a YouTube video about this issue. I think I spent ~$25 and problem solved. It held over for about a year until I traded it in.

 

I'm guessing that means the little pads can't be replaced?

A compressor clutch is made up of several parts; hub and inner plate to hold three rivets, three flexible steel pieces with holes on each end, and the clutch plate/outer ring with three rivets. The clutch plate is held onto the inner hub (that's bolted to the compressor shaft) with six rivets; three inner and three outer with three thin flexible steel rings or straps to makeup a clutch. The three thin steel rings or straps flex to allow the electro magnet behind the clutch and idler pulley to pull the clutch plate onto the spinning idler pulley, engaging the compressor. When powered off, the clutch plate springs back, away from the idler pulley, disengaging the clutch. Post #9 shows a good view of the six shiny rivets and three thin steel rings serving as flexure straps. When ac is off, there's an air gap between clutch plate and idler pulley face of approximately 0.016". When ac is running, no gap.

Unless you're a skilled diyer, can remove the clutch plate from the compressor and replace the rivet(s), the least expensive repair is buying the clutch plate alone, if you can find it online. Ebay may sell parts, new or used. Most clutch assemblies are sold complete with; clutch plate, coil assembly, idler pulley and spacer washer(s) to set correct air gap.

 

I got 2015 Crostrek XV, AC compressor does not turn on. Is there a fuse, I see the relay which I will check. Just stopped working a few weeks ago, plug is connected to compressor.

 

There are several ways for vehicle ac failure; loose/missing drive belt, Subaru clutches suffering premature failure of rivets on clutch assemblies (easily seen), blown fuse, disconnected/melted power wiring to clutch coil, and last and least visible - damage to the ac system releasing refrigerant until a pressure sensor detects loss of pressure, sending a disable signal to the ecm to disable compressor power to prevent compressor self destruction from loss of refrigerant (the leak no one can see unless a system has factory dye leaving markers at leak sites. A pressure gauge will not display loss of refrigerant since a nearly empty system will show the same standby pressure as a full system. Anyone familiar with ac systems knows this but the majority of owners do not and attempt refilling..........a leaking system. A simple way to determine if a system like Subaru's lost refrigerant without dye for easy troubleshooting is to power the compressor directly from the battery.

A single power wire supplies 12v to the compressor clutch coil with frame as ground. A two wire compressor needs 12v and ground to power the coil. The engine does not need to run. Applying power to the compressor connector will do one of two things; a little spark (approximately 3-5 amps) and the clutch engages with a metallic click or nothing (blown thermal fuse in the clutch coil). The clutch engaging with power applied verifies the coil is operating but the chances of a loss of refrigerant is likely. Directly powering the compressor bypasses all wiring issues and the pressure sensor protecting the compressor. If you get this far in diagnosing, testing the compressor coil and clutch engage, disengage directly from the battery, you've narrowed troubleshooting that requires more knowledge of diy repairs or consider Subaru or reputable repair shop experienced in ac repairs.

 

Thx so much for posting these troubleshooting tips. Just found all 3 rubber pucks on my 2015 crosstrek ac clutch gone. This was after vacuuming the system and refilling etc. It would run cool for a few minutes then stop after taking off but would run pretty much forever at idle. I used some rubber grommets from a kit to replace then shimmed the gap to .016. Viola it works!

 

Additional information, soon after had to replace the ac relay. Advise replacement of all relays in the fuse box due to age. Ymmv

 

The Clutch Gap is what it important. Too loose and it will slip. Too tight and it will not be able to disengage. The correct specs are earlier in the thread.,

Turn on the AC and see if the clutch cycles properly and if after a time it starts to slip.

 

@subyrubyroo This was my concern, see how I’m completely missing that plastic piece? It’s at a mechanic now on its second hour of diag so I’m doing my own from the phone 😅

 

That’s not good. You can buy a new clutch for less than $100 but not from Subaru. There are several different kinds so you have to get the numbers off the compressor to be sure you get the correct one. Looking at your clutch missing the rubber spacer, I’d say it would most likely be slipping. The other 2 are there but the nubs are broken off which would still allow them to work.

I’m not sure what kind of kit he referenced above with what was called grommets?? Maybe bought a new clutch and only changed them which I think would be harder to do than just changing the clutch with 1 bolt.

 

The 3 round rings with a rivet at the end are springs that hold the outer clutch. The 3 rubber bumpers absorb some of noise when the clutch engages and disengages. Makes it work smoother. I think someone on here 3D printed replacement bumpers but it’s been a long time ago.

if you could find a rubber wire grommet that fit into the hole and was still able to properly set your air gap, you may be back in business. All it really does is cushion the clutch when operating. But when missing, I’d bet your gap is not correct.

Model Years 2012 to 2017 - Air conditioner cooling issue

I have a 2014 Crosstrek with an air conditioner that works intermittently. I can turn it on and it blows cold air for a few minutes and then it blows warm air. I turn it off, wait a bit, then turn it back on and cold air blows and then warm air again. Any ideas? Most web searches I've come...

www.subaruxvforum.com

 

May need to do that.

just got off the phone with the shop they think is the “heater climate control board”
72311sg010 part number I believe.

gonna get one off eBay and throw that in and see about this spacer business

 

Hopefully it wasn’t just the clutch and the other problems were created from trying to improperly diagnose or fix the issue. It is normal for the compressor clutch to engage and disengage repeatedly and often. That’s what wears out the clutch plates. When needing adjusted, the AC will blow cold a bit then as pressures rise the clutch starts to slip then no AC. Pressures drop then cycle repeat. Worse the warmer it is outside. That was a Subaru issue for many years.