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I have a 2014 Crosstrek with an air conditioner that works intermittently. I can turn it on and it blows cold air for a few minutes and then it blows warm air. I turn it off, wait a bit, then turn it back on and cold air blows and then warm air again. Any ideas? Most web searches I've come across state that I have leak... But if it's leaking then wouldn't it only blow warm air and not intermittently blow cold? Thanks for any input!!
 

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Open hood and see if compressor kicks off when it starts to blow warm air, that way you know if it is a refrigerant or A/C issue, or possible a damper issue.
 

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After running your AC do you see condensation dripping under your car? If not then it's possible your drain is blocked, when the tray fills the AC cuts out (I've seen this in other cars, an Avalon had a kinked line and another car that had a bolt screwed into it. My theory is oil change shop workers don't want to get dripped on and forget to unblock the hose.)
 

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I have a 2014 Crosstrek with an air conditioner that works intermittently. I can turn it on and it blows cold air for a few minutes and then it blows warm air. I turn it off, wait a bit, then turn it back on and cold air blows and then warm air again. Any ideas? Most web searches I've come across state that I have leak... But if it's leaking then wouldn't it only blow warm air and not intermittently blow cold? Thanks for any input!!
All good suggestions above:wink:

You might also want to purchase a Temperature probe to be able to place it inside you main dash vents (Yuuup like the ones that you seen used on a Turkey) Not the IR type..

Also here's a question your car is now 5 model years old, all things require regular maintenance, and just like you (may/may not) own your own home, Homes typically get regular Service maintenance, Furnace inspected Before heating season/ Air Conditioning same thing.

Cars Are no different, Dealers typically will look for the obvious, drain blockage, any signs of oil sweating off from fittings, or is this case be able to hook the A/C cart to your car and BE ABLE to Measure the Freon Level in the system( pressure operating at ). If low, which by the way it might possibly be, as those symptoms you have spoken about Might indicate....

Always look for the Simple things first, Preventive Maintenance is just that, keeps you and your car/house from losing its Cool:eusa_clap:

Troutbum
 

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My wife's '14 Crosstrek had the same problem. Took it in for service, they emptied the system, pumped it down and recharged it with their leak detector "freon"(generic term - R134a is the refrigerant) and found two orings were leaking. Orings replaced, system recharged. $400. When I inquired about the orings going bad their answer was they just go bad with age. Being a chemist who works in the refrigerant business I asked about material of construction and compatability with the refrigerant, and was met with deer in headlights looks. I also sent a letter to Subaru asking about the material of construction but never received a response. My guess is the orings are probably made of Neoprene because it's cheap. Viton would be a better choice but costs a little more. In the future if we have A/C problems with her '14 or my '18 I'll purchase my own orings and do the fix myself.
Good luck.
 

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I have owned my My 2014 Crosstrek for less than 3 years --it sat in the dealer's lot for a long time, since it is orange. Even now, it only has 39k miles. The AC has never worked right, and last summer I took it to the dealer, He recharged the freon and sent me on my way. But after 10 minutes on the road, it was blowing warm again. I work 2 jobs, and it's a 100 mile round trip to the dealer, so AC ws not a priority

Big heat wave here, so last week I brought it to a local shop. He told me the freon was OVER filled. He drained it, and sent me on my way. Once again it works for about 10 minutes at a time, but then blows warm. This is costing $. I do have an extended warranty that covers all the AC components...but diagnosing the problem is the issue!
 

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I have owned my My 2014 Crosstrek for less than 3 years --it sat in the dealer's lot for a long time, since it is orange. Even now, it only has 39k miles. The AC has never worked right, and last summer I took it to the dealer, He recharged the freon and sent me on my way. But after 10 minutes on the road, it was blowing warm again. I work 2 jobs, and it's a 100 mile round trip to the dealer, so AC ws not a priority

Big heat wave here, so last week I brought it to a local shop. He told me the freon was OVER filled. He drained it, and sent me on my way. Once again it works for about 10 minutes at a time, but then blows warm. This is costing $. I do have an extended warranty that covers all the AC components...but diagnosing the problem is the issue!
Double posting to multiple threads (even starting a new one) is against forum rules. Please refrain from doing this again in the future.
 

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I have a 2014 Crosstrek with an air conditioner that works intermittently. I can turn it on and it blows cold air for a few minutes and then it blows warm air. I turn it off, wait a bit, then turn it back on and cold air blows and then warm air again. Any ideas? Most web searches I've come across state that I have leak... But if it's leaking then wouldn't it only blow warm air and not intermittently blow cold? Thanks for any input!!
Had the exact same issue. The problem is the AC clutch. It wears out over time. When you turn on the AC and the pressure builds, the clutch slips so you lose your AC. This is very common on Subaru's, tons of threads on the other forums, lots of videos on YouTube. The XV is somewhat new so not as many have had this happen yet but it is just a matter of time. The "clutch air gap" should be between .016" and .025" (.4mm-.7mm). Mine was around .025" and I was having issues with it slipping.

You have several options all of which I obtained from the other forums. The easiest and what will test to see if this is indeed your issue is to shim the stock clutch. Don't laugh but it actually works. What you need to do is find yourself some shim material. I made mine out of a heavy plastic wiper fluid jug. One guy used a CD case. You cut 3 rectangular pieces and place them between the 3 rubber bumpers and the front plate of the clutch. After inserted, you must verify that the clutch can still spin free and that you didn't use too thick of a shim. You don't want the clutch to drag. When the car is started and the AC or Defrost is off, the clutch should not be turning. This worked like a charm. It also proves there is nothing wrong with your compressor or charge. Just be careful of the shim size and also when inserting that you don't cut the rubber bumpers.

The second option is to remove a factory shim from the clutch. You take the center bolt of the clutch out and them remove the clutch. Behind it there are generally 2 shims. This is how the factory controls the air gap. You can remove one and most likely obtain the correct gap. Lots of videos how to but ours is even easier than the other Subaru's in that the clutch is not pressed onto the shaft. Remove the center screw and the clutch comes right off (at least on the DKV10Z it does). You do however have to use a tool to prevent it from spinning when you loosen and tighten the bolt. I bought the tool, it's triangle shape, 3 pins engage holes in the clutch to prevent it from spinning. Was $10 or so.

Lastly, Subaru does not offer the clutch by itself. They will only sell the entire compressor. You can however buy one brand new on Ebay for around $100-120. You have to check the sticker on the compressor to be sure you get the correct model. There are cheaper ones on Amazon and Ebay but they are not the correct part (at least in my case). Don't go by it saying it fits a XV, use the model on the compressor sticker. Mine was a DKV10Z Compressor with the grey plug not the DKV10R that is listed in the cheaper listings. This is a little more involved in that in addition to removing the clutch, you also have to remove and replace the pulley. So in addition to the tool to prevent it from spinning, you will need some kind of gear puller. A lot of kids use a hammer in the videos but that is very bad and can blow out your seals.

I did buy a replacement clutch but the shims worked so well, I just haven't installed it yet. I had planned on doing a write up with pictures but was going to do it with the clutch install as well. When I asked here a few months back about this issue, the reply's were to take it to the dealer. Yeah right, $1500+ vs free or $120 for a new clutch. As I mentioned, this is a common issue with Subaru's.There is a lot of info out there about it which I tried to sum up in this post.

Here is a video that shows where the shims go. His (not my video) shims are very crude but it gives an idea where to place them. As mentioned, be careful you don't cut the rubber bumpers when slipping them into place. Mine have been in there for several months and not moved at all.

 

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I've noticed that one of the rubber tab was missing and the other 2 looked like they are gonna fall off any minute. 3D printed a shim to see how it'll hold up.

The clutch gap was too large on the side the rubber was missing.
 
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