Many newer cars have electronic devices that consume power even when the ignition is turned off. If you don't drive everyday or every couple of days, your power in the battery will diminish to the point your car will not start. I have to use a battery tender on my Porsches that get driven a couple of times a week, and less an bad weather. If not, my batteries will only last less than a year or two and I'll have frequent episodes of not being able to start the car.

 

That's not my experience. I usually only drive in the weekend, and sometimes my car is stationary for two or three weeks in a row. I've never had battery troubles or even trouble starting the car. Not even during particularly harsh (for our region) winter weather.

 

Sounds like something the dealer should fix for you, but I have an idea if you want to continue troubleshooting. You have to be careful, but you'll need a DC ammeter. It will probably be the inline type, but if you can get your hands on an amp clamp that does DC it would be the safer alternative. If it's the inline type the meter may have a warning on it that the high current amp test circuit is unfused. Get a quick blow fuse rated for the meter's max current and use it inline. Make sure the car is OFF, since it seems like the current drain happens at that time. Then, remove the NEGATIVE battery cable (EDITED: changed to Negative side, it's SAFER) and insert the ammeter into the circuit (or just clamp it on if you were able to get that type). Note the current draw at this time. Next, start pulling fuses one at a time until you see a large dip in the current and that is probably the sub-system with the electrical problem. If the problem is in the wiring somewhere before the fuse block, you won't find it this way. Also, you don't really know how much current is supposed to be drawn so you're just using this method to get a general idea about the relative change in current when you remove parts of the circuit. Do you know if your chargiong system is working properly? Before any of this, you should check the voltage at the battery while the car is off, then start the car. The voltage should jump when the engine is on. (EDITED: Voltage when key is not in should be 12.45 to 12.60 and 13.5 to 14.5 or more when engine is running, per article at link below).

EDITED: Check the following site for detailed info about diagnosing a battery that keeps draining. http://www.aa1car.com/library/battery_runs_down.htm
According to the site, anywhere from 20 mA to 400 mA could be considered normal "key off" current. Sometimes it may be close to 1000 mA, probably during a EVAP system test or if the radiator fan continues to run after shutdown.
Note that there could be trouble codes popping up and other consequences if you start disconnecting fuses, so you should probably go to the dealer if you're not comfortable doing the procedure. The link has a lot of details on all this.

 

Assuming you have made no Modifications to the XV that involve splicing into/around near wiring, and that little light in the cargo area is in the off position....you may have something as simple as a defective "new" Battery. Not often, but on occassion they do sneak out of the factory with a dead cell. Make a run back to the dealer and have em check it out.

 

Hi Hammerhead,
My xv is used similar to Sancho minus the harsh weather. I did notice on short trips where the car overrode the stop /start as the battery must have been getting low on charge and activated the engine whilst still stopped at traffic lights.

I have since for some time now connected a C-tek charger which is usually connected weeks at a time to keep the battery in the best condition possible. If you maintain your battery keeping it fully charged rather than fully flat or partially charged the life you will get out of it will be extended.

If your xv gets driven normally it still would be of benefit to weekly overnight hook the charger to the battery terminals which I might add in its basic form does not need to be disconnected from the car which makes it easy .

 

I have gone away for 2 weeks and had no trouble starting my car afterwards.
Of course, if you have an old battery it will not last as long as a new one. Also cold weather can cause an older battery to be less effective.

 

Glad to find another flat/dead battery! Have had my XV since January. Drive almost every day, including yesterday... today, battery/car is dead. Key fobs didn't even work to unlock the doors. Having car towed into dealership (under warranty) tomorrow morning... starting to feel like I bought a lemon and want my forester back!

 

This is definitely not normal. Get to the dealership .. either defective battery or drain/short somewhere.

 

Hi Hammerhead
I had a similar experience 2 weeks after taking delivery of my XV and it turned out to be a faulty drivers side auto window controller which jammed in the down position. Took back to the dealer and they disconnected and charged the battery then reconnected and has been fine since.

 

Can you update this thread Hammerhead? What was the problem?

 

this is the Fourth battery flat.

we'd pinned it down to a stupid (now i think it's stuid) rust preventer unit that had a blown fuse and they left it. but then two weeks later after another weekend of not driving it, the battery was flat again. i'm in the country and the nearest dealer wont touch it cos the rust preventer isnt part of the warranty; and protech who supply it says i'd have to pay $120 call out fee.

anyway..... i'm thinking it might have been the blu tooth being left on ... my phone has been losing battery power really quickly as well.... could that be an issue here ... thanks

 

Hey! This just happened to us last week- I thought I left the key on with the seat warmers on, but I had just checked my mailbox thru the driver's window before parking in my garage. I will call my dealer to check this out because now the "auto" up/down window mode doesn't seem to be working since (the window works, but not auto up/down mode). I jumped the battery that morning, my wife drove to work, then I trickle charged battery overnight that night.

 

I hasd an old chevy pick up that only got driven once or twice a month. I threw one of those small solar panels from canada tire up on the dash as the cig plug was hard wired and it kept the battery up good enough so i could always start it. without it the battery was always flat.
But I agree with the others this shouldn't be the case here. the dealership needs to look into it.

 

Update-- Went to the dealer today to check auto up/down window switch. They said that when the battery is discharged, the auto window switch must be reset. Here is the procedure: Push & hold window switch down for 10-15 seconds -then without letting go of switch- lift up on window switch for 10-15 seconds. This should reset auto up/down switch to work as it should.
P.S.
Still no idea why battery was dead last week- I think I may have left key "on" (in my garage) with seat warmers on. I had to turn key back on to operate Homelink to close garage door & may have forgot to turn off. From now on- I will remove keys from ignition.

 

My wife and I are on our 6th Subaru and I have been working on most models 87' and up. In most cases.. most of us may remember that column park light switch being the culprit of battery drains. We have lost that feature a few years back.
However, for years and years 90% of global market subaru's will cut all accessory power when the key is removed. So, battery dying due to something left on other than interior lights, is unlikely. Have you checked that all lights fade out, including trunk? The trunks weigh very little and struts don't always get trunk to close on first try if you're trying to be gentle. When locking remotely, you get one chirp and not four. I have had a cpl bad door switches on new vehicles.
In my experience, batteries are like anything else made and none are perfect, even if branded by the auto manufacturer. For those of you who receive a replacement battery, please ask dealer how they store their batteries. I have worked at some that store them in very cold areas, even on floors (bad!). Even cool floors can kill a battery fairly quickly. I have seen some pull batteries out of cars that have not been run in forever, and cleaned them up and passed them off. I was at a dealership that utilized heavy amounts of silicone, instead of dielectric grease on battery posts to avoid corrosion. This did not prove well for proper conduction.

Not saying this has happened to you.... But my advice is to check manufacturer date stamp on battery case. You don't want to accept anything over 3 months old. If they give you the run around, ask to test battery before install and after and ensure voltage levels are proper.
If you are fearing your vehicle is providing inadequate load to charge your battery, grab a DC voltage monitor at your local auto shop and watch your voltage levels throughout your commutes, starts, warm ups, etc. seems like a bit much, but any insight for the dealer to review may help fix the problem. Check that date stamp.


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Glad to have read this thread. Must have missed it in my search before. I have a thread with much the same issue. After a month sat still no power, just enough to open the doors, once. Charged it up and went on a very long road trip, parked it for 8 or 9 days and it's flat again. I've asked the dealer to check the battery as the car is only 20 months old (owned anyway - it might have sat for a month I suppose).
Waiting to see what they say

 

Same problem, 4 times now

I have the same problem. My battery has died 4 times and been replaced by Subaru 4 times. The third time they said I had a bad alternator as well and replaced that.
Have you guys found a resolution to your problem? Im going to pursue a lemon law claim if (when) this happens for a fifth time (nevada it has to be repaired 4 times before lemon law can be used).

 

I have the same problem. My battery has died 4 times and been replaced by Subaru 4 times. The third time they said I had a bad alternator as well and replaced that.
Have you guys found a resolution to your problem? Im going to pursue a lemon law claim if (when) this happens for a fifth time (nevada it has to be repaired 4 times before lemon law can be used).

Since we are talking Nevada, it's not the cold that causing the failures.

As AWDfreak mentioned, there may be a parasitic loss at play here. I would ask the dealer to check the complete electrical system for a loss. Subaru has a TSB out for other models which spells out how to check and from what I've seen, that TSB can easily be applied here.

BTW> Welcome to the forum!

 

For those having this issue, do any of you have the proximity key (button push start models)? If so, are the keys being stored near the vehicle? If it is, the parasitic loss of the vehicle in "standby" mode with the keys nearby may very well be the cause of excessive parasitic draw.