Probably ok. I had the rear brake drums on my Oldsmobile powder coated. They rusted anyway. The important thing is keeping the caliper slides lubricated. Use brake Kleen to get any brake fluid off of the bleed screws so they don't rust and eventually break when the brakes are bled.

 

For one side of brake pads worn down with the other side not worn, points to worn or lack of lubrication of the two caliper slide pins. Examine them for wear and either wire brush clean or replace. Lube with high temperature brake grease, possibly silicone based to ensure the entire caliper slides easily from side to side; self aligning calipers allowing even pad wear. With new pads, refrain from using the same rotors as they taper, wearing unevenly from center to outside. Either have them machined with plenty of meat or replace them. Brake pads and rotors should always be replaced as a set or at least rotors machined once to restore parallel surfaces. It only takes one lesson, thousands of miles after incorrect brake repairs to see pads wearing unevenly from not machining rotors.

I don't know about brake painting and whether to use high temperature paint or epoxy paint. Regular paint may or may not hold up to the expansion/contraction rates of brake parts. Others more experienced may have better suggestions. If the backing plate is replaced, maybe epoxy paint for a longer lasting coat against road rash and salts?

 

For one side of brake pads worn down with the other side not worn, points to worn or lack of lubrication of the two caliper slide pins. Examine them for wear and either wire brush clean or replace. Lube with high temperature brake grease, possibly silicone based to ensure the entire caliper slides easily from side to side; self aligning calipers allowing even pad wear. With new pads, refrain from using the same rotors as they taper, wearing unevenly from center to outside. Either have them machined with plenty of meat or replace them. Brake pads and rotors should always be replaced as a set or at least rotors machined once to restore parallel surfaces. It only takes one lesson, thousands of miles after incorrect brake repairs to see pads wearing unevenly from not machining rotors.

I don't know about brake painting and whether to use high temperature paint or epoxy paint. Regular paint may or may not hold up to the expansion/contraction rates of brake parts. Others more experienced may have better suggestions. If the backing plate is replaced, maybe epoxy paint for a longer lasting coat against road rash and salts?

Thanks Nutjob. Ya i all good on the brake maint part...and agree with all your excellent recommendations...wish my dealer had been better about pin greasing. I am replacing everything but the knuckles.....kids are out of house now so I have more time to service our 3 DDs.

VHT paint I will use is Very High Temp...allegedly flameproof. I already did up the backing plates with that.

 

I like mine 'tidied up'....

 

Nice. I should have added why i want to paint bracket/calipers. It's not just about aesthetics.....not looking for bling on a DD Sube...more that I have brand new OEM brackets and nothing looks worse to me than rusted parts...cast iron. So why not paint. look a little better a little longer....and minimize rust spreading from them to pads and elsewhere.

 

I used the G2 Brake Caliper Paint System for the new Brembo’s I retrofitted to my FRS. It has withstood many DD miles and a dozen plus track days (high heat!).
Not sure how it would perform on crusty old calipers though.