If I read it correctly, we should change the differential oils/lube every 30K miles. If someone has done this what gearlube/oil did you use, please? The owners manual lists some specs but I gather that Subaru doesn't make a differential lube/oil; only engine oil and CVT fluid, correct? Any info on this is appreciated!! THANX!
Replacing Defferential Oil info please? How, when and what gear lube/oil did you use?
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ironman1518
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torque on front rear diff please can't find it in the manuel? cvt automatic and are all the plugs same torque ?
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front diff:
filler and overflow plugs: 50 N·m (5.1 kgf-m, 36.9 ft-lb)
drain plug: 70 N·m (7.1 kgf-m, 51.6 ft-lb)
rear diff:
filler and drain:
T-type diff:
49 N·m (5.0 kgf-m, 36.1 ft-lb)
VA-type diff:
50 N·m (5.1 kgf-m, 36.9 ft-lb)
taken from 2013 Impreza and XV Crosstrek Service Manual (Version 3)
filler and overflow plugs: 50 N·m (5.1 kgf-m, 36.9 ft-lb)
drain plug: 70 N·m (7.1 kgf-m, 51.6 ft-lb)
rear diff:
filler and drain:
T-type diff:
49 N·m (5.0 kgf-m, 36.1 ft-lb)
VA-type diff:
50 N·m (5.1 kgf-m, 36.9 ft-lb)
taken from 2013 Impreza and XV Crosstrek Service Manual (Version 3)
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379 Posts
Wow. I knocked out the back pretty quick but I don't see how you guys were able to access the front very easily. I have the passenger tire off and can see the fill and overflow plugs as well as the drain on the bottom. But as for reaching in there and then somehow having enough leverage to crack it? I dunno guys.. I might have a shop do it and hand over the fluid I already paid for to save a few bucks.
For the record, here is my rear drain plug with metallic sludge. the oil didn't look all that bad and it was still quite full after 71k.
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For the record, here is my rear drain plug with metallic sludge. the oil didn't look all that bad and it was still quite full after 71k.
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379 Posts
Reread the post about the breather tube and was able to access drain and overflow from the bottom. All done. Different issue though I'm going to put in another thread....
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Wow this thread has a lot of info. I must have read through it a dozen times.
So from what I can gather from 9 pages of numbers and specs and my own research for a 2013 XV CVT:
Rear Diff:
75w90 GL-5 fluid
2 plugs (fill & drain) are both 10mm hex
Each plug takes a Subaru part# 803918060 gasket/washer
Front Diff:
75w90 GL-5 fluid
3 plugs (fill, drain, overflow)
Fill & Overflow are 8mm hex (each take Subaru part# 803918060 gasket/washer; same as the 10mm hex for the rear)
Drain is T70 (Subaru part# 803926090 gasket/washer)
Popular 75w90 fluid choices are Valvoline, Mobil1 & Amsoil.
Crosstrek CVT models have standard (open) differentials and the fluid does not matter if it is for limited slip if the bottle states it is ok to use for standard/conventional diffs.
I am currently at 34,000 miles and plan changing fluids sometime soon. Just want to make sure I have everything on hand before dropping fluid. Has anyone rounded their plugs cracking them loose yet?
So from what I can gather from 9 pages of numbers and specs and my own research for a 2013 XV CVT:
Rear Diff:
75w90 GL-5 fluid
2 plugs (fill & drain) are both 10mm hex
Each plug takes a Subaru part# 803918060 gasket/washer
Front Diff:
75w90 GL-5 fluid
3 plugs (fill, drain, overflow)
Fill & Overflow are 8mm hex (each take Subaru part# 803918060 gasket/washer; same as the 10mm hex for the rear)
Drain is T70 (Subaru part# 803926090 gasket/washer)
Popular 75w90 fluid choices are Valvoline, Mobil1 & Amsoil.
Crosstrek CVT models have standard (open) differentials and the fluid does not matter if it is for limited slip if the bottle states it is ok to use for standard/conventional diffs.
I am currently at 34,000 miles and plan changing fluids sometime soon. Just want to make sure I have everything on hand before dropping fluid. Has anyone rounded their plugs cracking them loose yet?
You don't need to replace the washer per change. I was taking to the parts guy at the local dealership and it's typically a part that they don't replace - just clean all of the surfaces well and reinstall.
BTW> I did end up picking a 803918060 as a spare just in case....
BTW> I did end up picking a 803918060 as a spare just in case....
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ok, thanks. I think I'd like to have a spare on hand for each gasket and I was even thinking about a spare plug just to be safe..for a few bucks I don't think it hurts anything.
Just wanted to mention I tried the floor jack method of getting the rear plugs loose. I only tried the filler plug and within a few seconds, it broke loose. WOW! I remember trying for hours on my ex's '09 Impreza to get those plugs off! I'm guessing the drain plug will break free just as easy. This job seems less daunting now knowing it won't be a repeat of the '09 Subie. Thanks!
Just wanted to mention I tried the floor jack method of getting the rear plugs loose. I only tried the filler plug and within a few seconds, it broke loose. WOW! I remember trying for hours on my ex's '09 Impreza to get those plugs off! I'm guessing the drain plug will break free just as easy. This job seems less daunting now knowing it won't be a repeat of the '09 Subie. Thanks!
Was your '09 Subie the first one you did? If so, I always say that no matter how much preparation, the first time you do something will be your worst attempt. It only gets better!
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Yup, first timer with the 2009. I never did get the plugs out, she ended up trading for a '13 for other reasons, mainly the "pretty blue" 
The XV is MY first Subaru & I plan to love it for a long long time! Coming from 8-9 years of Hyundai Sonatas..4 banger, turbo & a V6 I know Hyundai very well - the XV is a different beast, so there will be a learning curve I'm sure.
The XV is MY first Subaru & I plan to love it for a long long time! Coming from 8-9 years of Hyundai Sonatas..4 banger, turbo & a V6 I know Hyundai very well - the XV is a different beast, so there will be a learning curve I'm sure.
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I've been looking under the front end getting everything ready while I wait for my gear oil to arrive (I went with Liqui Moly 75w90 GL5). https://www.europaparts.com/liqui-m...liter.html?utm_source=google_shopping&m=simple&gclid=CNH3uZ3U0M4CFcZbhgodTNcL6Q
The rear is pretty simple so this post is a summary of the front differential. I took the time to make sure I can access & loosen every plug I need to for the job so there are no surprises. I found out I can get to the fill plug without jacking the car and removing the passenger tire or using the vent tube. I did pull the vent tube off and only a small nipple is at the bottom. Not sure how people are filling through the vent tube? I will be using the fill plug with access from underneath the car (I'm 6' & 185 lbs and I fit with room to wiggle my shoulders). WD-40 sprayed on the fill, check & drain plugs a few minutes before attacking helped I think along with a breaker bar. Pouring the oil in the front will be done with a 1/2'' interior ; 5/8'' exterior diameter clear tubing. The 5/8'' tube fits perfect into the fill hole and I have a funnel that will fit in the other end. Of course this will be poured from the top end. If you take the black air passage off between the air box and throttle body, you have plenty more room to work, but not needed.
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The rear is pretty simple so this post is a summary of the front differential. I took the time to make sure I can access & loosen every plug I need to for the job so there are no surprises. I found out I can get to the fill plug without jacking the car and removing the passenger tire or using the vent tube. I did pull the vent tube off and only a small nipple is at the bottom. Not sure how people are filling through the vent tube? I will be using the fill plug with access from underneath the car (I'm 6' & 185 lbs and I fit with room to wiggle my shoulders). WD-40 sprayed on the fill, check & drain plugs a few minutes before attacking helped I think along with a breaker bar. Pouring the oil in the front will be done with a 1/2'' interior ; 5/8'' exterior diameter clear tubing. The 5/8'' tube fits perfect into the fill hole and I have a funnel that will fit in the other end. Of course this will be poured from the top end. If you take the black air passage off between the air box and throttle body, you have plenty more room to work, but not needed.
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just a follow up after I changed the front & rear fluids. Easy enough job. I got just under a quart out of the rear, so .8qt on the dot. The front brought the total amount to just under 2 qt :blink: so only about a quart was in the front, not 1.4 qt. Metal shavings on both rear & front drain plugs. I wasn't expecting the front drain plug to be so big & heavy..dropped it in the bucket ooops, so be prepared for a heavy plug.
Pics of used fluid (rear & front mixed sample) next to new fluid. I know fluid color doesn't mean much but a good idea of what to expect. Both fluids move about the same when the bottles are tipped upside down. Also a pic of the metal shavings off the rear plug..was a fair amount but no chunks. The used oil had a sheen and black residue at the bottom of the container when poured into a jug for recycling.
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Pics of used fluid (rear & front mixed sample) next to new fluid. I know fluid color doesn't mean much but a good idea of what to expect. Both fluids move about the same when the bottles are tipped upside down. Also a pic of the metal shavings off the rear plug..was a fair amount but no chunks. The used oil had a sheen and black residue at the bottom of the container when poured into a jug for recycling.
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Great finishing touch to this thread! Thanks for the location pics and before/after samples
I have the PDFs but i cant attach them in a PM.
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Okay, so I read through this whole thread, and here's my plan for changing the front diff fluid on my 2015 CVT. Please let me know if I'm not factoring something in
1) jack up front passenger side of car, remove wheel
2) crack (but don't remove) all 3 bolts to make sure they can all be removed easily
3) open drain bolt, carefully lower car (without wheel) down to normal height to get all to drain out (is this necessary, or does the front passenger side being higher up help drain things better?)
4) raise car back up again, close drain bolt, torque to 51.6 ft-lb
5) use fill hole in wheel well to fill with more than 1.4 quarts. close fill hole, torque to 36.9 ft-lb
6) put wheel back on, lower car
7) open check bolt to remove excess oil - shouldn't be too hard with car on the ground since the bolt was already cracked open.
8) close back up, torque to 36.9 ft-lb(may need to raise car back up once more to get good enough access to properly close)
what do you guys think, does this all sound reasonable?
1) jack up front passenger side of car, remove wheel
2) crack (but don't remove) all 3 bolts to make sure they can all be removed easily
3) open drain bolt, carefully lower car (without wheel) down to normal height to get all to drain out (is this necessary, or does the front passenger side being higher up help drain things better?)
4) raise car back up again, close drain bolt, torque to 51.6 ft-lb
5) use fill hole in wheel well to fill with more than 1.4 quarts. close fill hole, torque to 36.9 ft-lb
6) put wheel back on, lower car
7) open check bolt to remove excess oil - shouldn't be too hard with car on the ground since the bolt was already cracked open.
8) close back up, torque to 36.9 ft-lb(may need to raise car back up once more to get good enough access to properly close)
what do you guys think, does this all sound reasonable?
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Alright, I recently did the front diff fluid change and i just wanted to leave a couple of notes in hope of helping others going through this the first time
I couldn't crack open the fill bolt even with a breaker bar and the front wheel off- there just isn't enough room to get the proper torque even with the extensions I had- I think if i had a long enough extension to get the breaker bar outside of the wheel well, i probably would have rounded off the 8mm hex bolt first
So, I had to add fluid through the vent hole, which is the only tube not clamped onto the top of the front diff as others mentioned. The Plews 55001 Lubrimatic Fluid Quart Pump that is so popular fit right over the vent hole. the only issue is that it's not a super tight fit, so it can easily slip off.
you'll want to use a clip of some kind to lock it on there to prevent spills down onto your CV boot and exaust. if you do spill, wipe it up to prevent smoking and possible fires!
somehow, I misread the info and thought we needed 5 of the same gasket for the front and rear, but it's 4 of one (or 3 if you don't open the fill hole), and 1 of the other.
essentially, you need 4 plugs with subaru part# 803918060, 2 front, 2 rear, and a larger gasket for the front drain plug, part # 803926090
the rear was a piece of cake. the front? the whole cake.
I couldn't crack open the fill bolt even with a breaker bar and the front wheel off- there just isn't enough room to get the proper torque even with the extensions I had- I think if i had a long enough extension to get the breaker bar outside of the wheel well, i probably would have rounded off the 8mm hex bolt first
So, I had to add fluid through the vent hole, which is the only tube not clamped onto the top of the front diff as others mentioned. The Plews 55001 Lubrimatic Fluid Quart Pump that is so popular fit right over the vent hole. the only issue is that it's not a super tight fit, so it can easily slip off.
you'll want to use a clip of some kind to lock it on there to prevent spills down onto your CV boot and exaust. if you do spill, wipe it up to prevent smoking and possible fires!
somehow, I misread the info and thought we needed 5 of the same gasket for the front and rear, but it's 4 of one (or 3 if you don't open the fill hole), and 1 of the other.
essentially, you need 4 plugs with subaru part# 803918060, 2 front, 2 rear, and a larger gasket for the front drain plug, part # 803926090
the rear was a piece of cake. the front? the whole cake.
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793 Posts
EXCELLENT POSTING!! THANK YOU!! I raised my car in the air and had it level,, because I did the CVT fluid also. I (like a few other members), had a HECK of a time loosening the fill plug!! Needed a LONG cheater bar and a big armed younger guy loosen it it was on THAT TIGHT! Tried a 3/8' air gun then a 1/2" one, 1/2" electric impact wrench and nothing......
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