Subaru Crosstrek and XV Forums banner
41 - 54 of 54 Posts
There are quite a few, Castrol Edge Advanced, Total Quartz INEO, or Valvoline Modern Engine Oil to name a few from a quick search. Could be snake oil, could be minimally helpful, could be super effective shrug
Are you naming API SN+ oils? None of them have anything to do with DI engines.
 
Are you naming API SN+ oils? None of them have anything to do with DI engines.
SN+, to my understanding, is a step past SN specifically for GDI and TGDI engines.

From Valvoline's page on the oil I listed:
"Many manufacturers have adopted new technology, such as direct injection, to meet fuel efficiency standards. This advancement changes the way fuel enters the engine, which causes carbon build-up to occur during the fuel burning process. If ignored, carbon build-up can restrict airflow to the engine, which can lead to power and fuel economy loss and engine breakdown. Modern Engine Full Synthetic is formulated to fight carbon build-up in GDI, Turbo, and other newer engines. "

And now, since I don't own a DI engine, and don't care to research their needs any more than I did for some family members, I'll say that's all I know about them.
 
You need to research and pick one that is the least volatile and meets the manf specs. Look up their Noack tests. Some are a lot better for a DI engine than others even though they claim to meet the required spec.The way you guys like to pick apart an oil filter, this ought to be a no brainer.


How would anyone including the dealer know if the CVT fluid was bad and needing changed by "inspecting"? Do you inspect the motor oil to determine when it needs changed? Quite a bit different than a brake pad which you can physically see needs replaced.
The manual is quite clear on which oils are a match for the engine.. none of them are "a lot better for DI engine". Any API SN oil will do (provided it has a compatible viscosity).
 
SN+, to my understanding, is a step past SN specifically for GDI and TGDI engines.

From Valvoline's page on the oil I listed:
"Many manufacturers have adopted new technology, such as direct injection, to meet fuel efficiency standards. This advancement changes the way fuel enters the engine, which causes carbon build-up to occur during the fuel burning process. If ignored, carbon build-up can restrict airflow to the engine, which can lead to power and fuel economy loss and engine breakdown. Modern Engine Full Synthetic is formulated to fight carbon build-up in GDI, Turbo, and other newer engines. "

And now, since I don't own a DI engine, and don't care to research their needs any more than I did for some family members, I'll say that's all I know about them.
This may be a valvoline specific marketing claim, however:

The API SN category is an improvement over the API SM category in the following areas:

  • High temperature deposit protection for pistons
  • Better sludge control
  • Better seal compatibility
  • Aftertreatment compatibility

API SN+ oils offer low speed pre ignition protection, typical for cars with a turbo and small cc engines that manufacturers like to install these days.

  • What is “API SN PLUS”?

    API SN PLUS is a new motor oil specification developed for turbocharged engines that is being developed in response to automakers request for motor oils that protect against Low-Speed Pre-Ignition (LSPI). LSPI is an engine condition known to occur in Turbocharged Gasoline Direct Injection (TGDI) engines that can be mitigated by changing the motor oil formulation.

API SP oils provide even better protection against low speed pre ignition and timing chain wear.
 
The manual is quite clear on which oils are a match for the engine.. none of them are "a lot better for DI engine". Any API SN oil will do (provided it has a compatible viscosity).
My manual also said 7500 mile oil changes which anyone that works on a Subaru knows is a death sentence long term.

Noack values vary from oil to oil even if they are in the spec.You can be proactive or bury your head in the sand.
 
API SP oils offer no additional protection against carbon buildup in DI engines... I think you're confused.
Using a vehicle equipped with a 2.0L turbo GDI engine, the mechanisms leading to deposit formation have been studied and analyzed, and found to be a combination of engine oil, engine-wear elements, unburned fuel, and exhaust gas contaminants. The rate of accumulation was also found to be affected by engine lubricant formulation variables.
from here:

So if an oil formulation changes over a previous API (SN) rating to the next rating (SP), than one conclude going from an older spec to a newer one could indeed help with IVD.

If a certain standard of oil helps control LSPI better than the previous standard, then one can conclude it should also help reduce GDI carbon IVD issues seeing both LSPI and GDI IVD's are the result of oil vapor passing into the combustion chamber via the intake valve.


Like subyrubyroo also pointed out, NOACK volatility may also play an important roll in LSPI and thus also the forming of IVD. Although I have read conflicting reports on this. Some actually say higher volatility may be better for GDI IVD.


 
How would anyone including the dealer know if the CVT fluid was bad and needing changed by "inspecting"? Do you inspect the motor oil to determine when it needs changed?
You could say the same for front & rear differential fluids which are also "I" every 30k miles. Also, ATF for the 4EAT was "I" every 30k miles. Is Subaru saying never change ATF or diff fluid?
 
My manual also said 7500 mile oil changes which anyone that works on a Subaru knows is a death sentence long term./QUOTE]
Get an oil analysis periodically and use a filter that filters particles to 20 micron and you will be fine.
Have you looked at any oil analysis with 7.5K miles or 10K miles on the oil change? I have.
 
I have an ‘18 Crosstrek and I changed the CVT fluid at about 76,000 miles. The fluid was still green but slightly darker than the newer fluid I put in. I also changed the diff fluid at the same time and it was dark. I plan on changing both every 30,000 miles. Definitely the CVT fluid because you can only get about 5 quarts out when you drain it so you are mixing new fluid with old.. The CVT holds 11 quarts total.

In my observation with CVTs is that nobody has a definite answer on how to maintain them. But I know there is no lifetime fluid and any fluid eventually needs to be changed.

I also had a fuel induction service done to clean carbon build up and it seemed to help. Car idles smoother now. I’m at about 80,000 miles now. I also believe using good quality gas helps. I’ve tried different brands and octanes and there is a difference.
 
I had my intake valves boreoscoped about 2 months ago. Looked pretty carboned up. My 2019 was just 3 and a half years old. Did a clean of the valves. My mechanic said about every 3 years on a DI engine is about right. Whos to know.
$40 off Amazon. Have used it. Our new 2021 in DI, will dabble in the deep every oil change for Ha Ha's. Friends/family have higher mileage asking the same questions.
 
41 - 54 of 54 Posts