[MichaelCJ]

By the time I've started the engine, then.... Safety belt, turn off the AS/S, Turn off the Froward auto, Set the heater and seat warmer......etc.. By that time the engine has done its RPM bump and I know the hydraulic pressure in the trans is up to specs.

 

[Silver Fox24]

I had the same question about idling at cold start and asked @terrum .
Thank everyone for the answers, some of us newbie in the Subaru world ask “silly” questions for you older members, we might overthink….
but is it difficult to answer without judging driving behaviours?
It’s not my first car, I drove quite few of them and none had this long idle even in warm weather.

 

[Closed Case]

Should You Warm Up Your Car Before Driving? - Consumer Reports

Consumer Reports fills you in on whether you should warm up your car before driving. Letting your car idle might not be the hottest idea.

www.consumerreports.org

 

[Closed Case]

Do You Need To Warm Up Your Car? Modern Cars And Warming Cycles

Cold Starts: How Long Should You Let Your Car Idle To Warm Up Before Driving?

Is warming up your car before you drive really necessary, or is it just a myth?

carbuzz.com

Getting your car up to the perfect operating temperature by letting it idle for a while is a concept carried over from the days when most cars made use of carbureted engines which were notorious for cold start issues. These engines make use of manual fuel and air adjustments and use what is called a choke to restrict airflow during cold starts, which in turn creates a fuel-rich mixture ready for combustion. This is because cold air is denser than warm air and makes a lean air to fuel mixture. New fuel-injected engines use electronic sensors to automatically adjust the air-fuel ratio so that the car will start, even on the coldest of mornings, and will continuously adjust this ratio until the vehicle reaches its optimal operating temperature.

Another thought that has carried over from older engines suggesting that warming up your car is vital is that when the engine is cold, the gasoline takes longer to evaporate, and when too much is introduced into the combustion chamber, excess fuel can make its way onto the cylinder walls. Gasoline is a solvent and can wash away the protective layer of oil that keeps the cylinder walls lubricated between piston strokes. Without the friction protection offered by motor oil, the cylinder walls can eventually become scored and damaged. While this is a true concern, most modern engines are fully lubricated within twenty seconds of start-up, ensuring sufficient lubrication..

So, the question remains - should you warm up your car before driving off? According to most experts and manufacturers, modern vehicles don't need a dedicated warm-up time and starting your car and spending twenty to thirty seconds adjusting mirrors and buckling up is usually more than enough. In extremely cold weather, most manufacturers recommend driving gently for the first six to ten minutes but do not recommend idling your car for extended periods to warm it up. Many performance car drivers and motoring enthusiasts still prefer to spend a few minutes getting their engine up to temperature before driving off, even if it's not mechanically a requirement.

 

[PDawg]

I forgot to mention, if you shift into Neutral and wait a moment before engaging Drive or Reverse the revs will drop down and it wont jerk when put into D or R.

 

[IcyFridge]

I drive a 6MT and I move as soon as I start the car up. My muffler delete is LOUD at cold start and don’t want to be pissing anyone off at 6-7am. I do keep the RPMs below 3k until the blue light turns off.

 

[asa3066]

It's not my first car @erader , but it is my first Subaru

I admit, sometimes I'm reading too much and overthinking it, hence asking questions here when I'm not sure if I'm reading it correctly, ha-ha

There are no stupid questions. I haven't owned a Subaru in 20 years and recently bought a '24 Crosstrek Limited. Even though I have owned about 20 cars in my 50+ years I had never bought a NEW one. I also tend to overthink things at times but I want(ed) to find out as much as possible about my $30k "investment" I have already done a break in oil change at 1000 miles and plan to do most of my own maintenence and baby this car until the wheels fall off. I live in a cold hilly place and my work commute is only 10 minutes. I DO let my car warm up until the indicator reads "normal" and I drive gently until I reach the intersate a couple mile away. Because I only have about 10 minutes daily at highway speeds at least once a week I take a more circuituous 20-30 minute route on the highway just to get everything up to ideal operating temps and get its "juices flowing". Will any of this add any more longevity/durabilty--tiime will tell? Remember it's YOUR car. Treat it the way YOU value it--because everyone has an opinion and different experience. Enjoy your new car!

 

[terrum]

Treat it the way YOU value it--because everyone has an opinion and different experience.

Thanks @asa3066 ! Wise advise that apply not just to cold engine start
My daily commute is roughly 40 minutes (one way), half of it on mostly flat, rural roads and the rest is typical to/from work driving experience in a moderate size city. My car is still less than half way thru the break in, so for now I'm letting it idle for about 1 minute until the rpm make a slight drop to 1700 and then I gently drive away. Within first minute of driving the temp indicator turns "normal", though I suspect the time it takes to turn is going to increase as the ambient temps fall. Haven't tested yet the P to N and from there to R/D trick that @PDawg suggested, but it's on my list of things to try. May revise my routine once the break in is over and/or nightly temps stay below freezing on a regular basis - which is only a few weeks away by the look of it.

 

[RatRod69]

I am lucky to have remote start. I hit the button as I am putting on shoes and by the time I get to the car the idle is good.

 

[asa3066]

I am lucky to have remote start. I hit the button as I am putting on shoes and by the time I get to the car the idle is good.

Great point. I do the same. Is remote start in the app standard across the lineup? My limited has it.

 

[saflakk]

I think some of these replies are missing the point of the original question. Although all participants should be praised for their concern, the original post does not question warmup time. The issue is throwing the Sub from park to reverse with the engine turning 1800 rpm. There is a significant jerk in the power train. In the last 40 years of driving, I have never had a vehicle that jerked like this on cold start. There has to be a negative effect on the transmission when it absorbs an 800+ rpm jolt several times a day. I am in Wisconsin-cold weather country. I have been waiting at least until the engine begins to slow down before shifting into reverse. It just feels right to me even if I have to wait 3 to 5 minutes and burn more gas.

 

[BillLin]

Back in while the car's warmed up?

 

[Sun engine]

Perhaps it's the hard jerk that happens when you put it in drive, this is normally a bad thing but I doubt many wait the extra minute for the revs to drop.

Exactly and when you look and ask those with CVT issues and catalytic issues and on the old cars head gasket issues they will all say they started driving before the car lowered RPM. I’ve always idle mine the reason was to heat the catalytic converters up so that they work properly. Idk about you but a lot of people pay no attention to the RPM’s so not going over 3k is very hard to do if you’re not paying attention. You should let it run till it drops you won’t have any issues.

 

[Sun engine]

The high idle is for the CAT to heat up to lower tail pipe emissions.

You are correct

 

[Greyfox]

https://www.subaruxvforum.com/threa...ees-fahrenheit.189836/?post_id=2207215&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-2207215

 

[Greyfox]

I think some of these replies are missing the point of the original question. Although all participants should be praised for their concern, the original post does not question warmup time. The issue is throwing the Sub from park to reverse with the engine turning 1800 rpm. There is a significant jerk in the power train. In the last 40 years of driving, I have never had a vehicle that jerked like this on cold start. There has to be a negative effect on the transmission when it absorbs an 800+ rpm jolt several times a day. I am in Wisconsin-cold weather country. I have been waiting at least until the engine begins to slow down before shifting into reverse. It just feels right to me even if I have to wait 3 to 5 minutes and burn more gas.

Agree with you regarding longer warming up times before shifting into gear. Do not care what others state, my experience in last +40 years of driving has taught me to 'wait' for the vehicle to slowly get up to operating temp before even crawling away in drive. Just like you, I live in similar scenarios in the upper Midwest. So I can relate. I too would rather burn more fuel than to possible prematurely wear a major part out because I did want to wait for the vehicle to warm up. Seems to have worked for me all these years so far.
Everyone has their opinions, experiences, and sources they get their 'facts' from. Just passing along my experiences to you. Thread below was started due to this exact question. You will see it is has many pro and against for warming up the vehicle. Good luck in your fact finding mission

https://www.subaruxvforum.com/threa...ees-fahrenheit.189836/?post_id=2207215&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-2207215

 

[BillLin]

I am not trying to change anyone's mind. May be worth a read if you're open to scientific evidence one way or the other.

Warm up the rest of the car to the best of your ability and beliefs.



re: catalytic converter warmup - study suggests better ways to warm up the catalytic converter

https://www.weber.edu/wsuimages/ncast/projects/Cold_Hot_Start_Idle_Emissions_Final_Report.pdf

another reference

https://forsyth.cc/EAP/assets/doc/Idling_Myths.pdf

 

[Greyfox]

I am not trying to change anyone's mind. May be worth a read if you're open to scientific evidence one way or the other.

Warm up the rest of the car to the best of your ability and beliefs.



re: catalytic converter warmup - study suggests better ways to warm up the catalytic converter

https://www.weber.edu/wsuimages/ncast/projects/Cold_Hot_Start_Idle_Emissions_Final_Report.pdf

another reference

https://forsyth.cc/EAP/assets/doc/Idling_Myths.pdf

Appreciate the info, but no offense, when I see "Project funded by Utah Division of Air Quality Utah Department of Environmental Qualtiy" or similar, I take the info with a grain of salt.
They (government) are not paying nor maintaining my rides, equipment, etc. I am.

While I understand the need to ween us off fossil fuels, save the ozone, save the bees, save the pronouns, etc. I drew the line in the sand a while ago. I plant extra trees and try do MY PART in other areas to help save the planet. Saving gas is not one of them. I'm already paying for the "wasted" fuel (along with being taxed on top of it for using it and dirtying up the air) so I will use the extra gas to warm up my vehicle as I see fit. Spending the extra time (10-20minutes) of idling a vehicle in cold weather, while not eco-friendly, has worked for me for many years. Never had to replace a CAT, have a blown head gasket, or oil leak since doing the engine warm ups. YMMV.

@BillLin , appreciate the info. And while some of the info is scientifically backed, I know I can find many trucking/equipment operators/fleet owners who would counter those findings. Practical reality is where I obtained my education and information from for many years, before forums and YT were the place to go. I still get my info from today's garage techs as they are actually seeing what really works and what is just a solution looking for a problem. You won't save me, but maybe a new driver may appreciate the info ✌

 

[Greyfox]

I just wanted to add that while the infamous head-gasket issues with Subarus seem to be resolved, the fact that an actual metal gasket is STILL not used as a 'buffer' for the sealing of the parts is still a little unnerving for me. This is ALSO one of the reasons I will not push the motor to warm up quickly, and prefer to let it idle to warm up. That plain jane sealant/glue they are using right now, while seems to be holding for now, is not the optimal choice (see what most mechanics/tech recommend if ever replacing that gasket and why). Also, search other threads on this forum, head-gasket issues still arise even in the newer models from just a few years ago.
So to avoid putting undo pressure and at the weakest 'known' link, I prefer to do the longer warming up times. Time will only tell if I am correct in this theory.

 

[belchfire]

I just wanted to add that while the infamous head-gasket issues with Subarus seem to be resolved, the fact that an actual metal gasket is STILL not used as a 'buffer' for the sealing of the parts is still a little unnerving for me. This is ALSO one of the reasons I will not push the motor to warm up quickly, and prefer to let it idle to warm up. That plain jane sealant/glue they are using right now, while seems to be holding for now, is not the optimal choice (see what most mechanics/tech recommend if ever replacing that gasket and why). Also, search other threads on this forum, head-gasket issues still arise even in the newer models from just a few years ago.
So to avoid putting undo pressure and at the weakest 'known' link, I prefer to do the longer warming up times. Time will only tell if I am correct in this theory.

My '13 had the 2.0 engine. With the goofy offset rods & 0W-20 oil (my opinion) it sounded worse than a diesel on start up. The fact that it instantly went to 1500 rpm did not instill confidence in it not grenading at some point. I got 135K out of it when I traded it in because of trans issues. I'd fire it up, wait a few seconds for it to settle, back out apply the brakes, drop it into drive, wait for it to lock up & go. I have a mile of gravel road down hill so I ride the brakes to warm them up. The blue light's out when I hit the highway but I still roll on the power. Engine operated flawlessly the entire time.