Just a few comparisons for the shifter locations for Neutral, First, and Second.
1. Just double check all the parts when you receive the box. I would recommend buying the grease if you don’t have any because you won’t get much off of the OEM Shift Arm.
2. Get all of your tools ready to make sure that you have everything. I decided to use my ¼ inch socket set so that I don’t over tighten bolts. No bull in a china shop syndrome. Just as a side note, if you have a pair of fine needle nose pliers with the biter grips on the inside then you can omit the snap ring pliers. My fine needle nose pliers were SMOOTH and they DID NOT WORK, I couldn’t get a solid grab on the eyelids of the snap ring. Pictured I used the following: Rubber gloves if you prefer, Short 12mm Socket, 12mm Closed Wrench, 10mm Socket with a Short Extension, the Snap Ring Pliers, Small Phillips Head, and a Medium Flat Head.
3. I would recommend starting with the removal of the E-Brake Boot, this is the most frustrating part. I tried to use interior tools to loosen the top mounts and this failed miserably. I found it easier to simply slide my hand between the seat and the lowest rear point of the e-brake boot, towards the back seat,t and Pull Out towards the Driver Seat and then UP towards the roof. There are Two (2) retainer clips on the inner driver side of the panel and Three (3) along the top visible mid-line of the E-Brake boot. I have a picture of the internal clips of this boot. Leave the Boot on the E-Brake handle, it will get in the way every so often, but it is not worth completely removing for this install.
4. Now slide the seats forward a bit so that the Rear Console Back Seat Area is exposed. Here there are two lower exterior Pop Panels visible, one on the driver side and one on the passenger side. Again, the trim tools failed and the good old hand method worked better. Pull the Rear Console panel out a bit and slide your fingers up and under the panel to simply Pop these little Quarter Sized Panels out. Behind it you will find a 10mm Bolt on each side that will have to be removed. Now that the Rear Rear Console Bolts are removed, slide the seats back again and move to the Front of the Rear Console.
5. At the Front of the Rear Console, just before the actual shift panel cover is located, you will see the Little Metal Phillips Head Screw that was previously covered by the E-Brake Shifter boot. Remove this screw and put it in a secured place on the Driver’s Side floor. With the Screw removed there is One More Push Panel Clip on the Passenger side that you need to Pop by Lifting the Entire Front of the Rear Console towards the roof. It is straight up, so grab both side of the Front Rear Console so that you don’t crack the panel. At this point the front of the Rear Console is loose, I simply flipped it back and rested it against the back seats so that it was out of the way.
6. You can now move onto the Lid of the Front Console Removal. This is where the videos are actually helpful to watch. There are Six or so Pop/Push tabs that hold this Lid Cover in Place. Start by Lifting the Lid Cover closest to the hole where the screw was. It will eventually start popping out. Once you get the Six or so push tabs out, it is best to Start loosening the Shift Knob, WITHOUT fully sliding the top lid cover off yet.
7. The Shift Knob on the XV is actually really genius. There is a Plastic Spindle Ring attaching the Vinyl Shift Boot to the actual Shift Knob. I do not know how it works because I didn’t take it apart. What I found is that you can grab that Plastic Spindle through the outside Top of the Shift Boot and spin the Shift Knob Separately. This will prevent the Shift Boot from getting All Twisted Up. Keep Spinning the Shift Knob until it comes off the threads, this seemed like it took forever because of how long the threaded shaft of the Shifter Arm is. Once the Shift Knob is loose, LET IT REST ON THE SHIFT ARM, do not let it flop around because it may tear the shift boot.
8. You can now pick-up where number Six left off. To completely remove the Top Lid Front Console cover you need to pull the Front Front Console Retainer Tab Down at a 45 Degree Angle and Back towards the Rear Console at the same time. Wiggling it a bit helps, but remember, NO BULL IN A CHINA SHOP or you will break the retainer tabs. Once it is loose you can remove the lid, remember to Hold the Shift Knob because it will fall wherever gravity takes it. Put this Top Lid Cover for the Front Console in a Place that you will not scratch it.
9. Next it is time to tackle the actual Shifter Arm. There is another Rubber boot covering the mechanical area of the shift arm. There are two White Threaded Caps that hold the boot down. You can use the Medium Flat Head or your fingers to loosen and remove the tabs. I am not sure if you can simply pop them out or if you need to untwist them, that will be your decision. Remove the white tabs and Pull the Rubber Boot Back and Up to remove it. The Front of the Rubber Boot rests UNDER the Carpet, so remember that when you reinstall it.
10. With the Rubber boot removed you can now see the Mechanicals of the OEM Shifter Arm. **MOVE the shifter around
to get a good feel for it. Feel and Watch the mechanicals for smoothness, any sticking points, etc. This will be useful for reinstallation purposes** The Bolt Head is on the Left Driver’s Side and the Nut is on the Right Passenger Side, remember this is a US XV . **COUNT THE NUMBER OF VISIBLE THREADS and Take a picture of it so that you don’t forget it.** The directions say 10-12 ft/lbs of torque, I did not waste time with the torque wrench and simply retighten the bolt to the same spot on the reinstallation. If Subaru feels that is adequate then it works for me. If you have a second vehicle and the time I would recommend going to a hardware store and purchasing a replacement Nut with a Plastic Retainer built into it, this will reduce the likelihood of it ever loosening up again.
11. You will need to remove the Bolt with your 12mm Short Socket and the 12mm Wrench. Once the nut is off slide the bolt out. Again, put this where you won’t lose it, passenger floor if you want.
12. The second most frustrating thing is to remove the Snap Ring. You will squeeze both of the Eyelids TOWARDS one another. This will take several attempts and expect the snap ring to SPIN around and move with each failed attempt. Once the snap ring has agreed to release itself, slide it up the lower shaft of the Shifter Arm, this will get it out of the way.
13. I spun the Shifter Arm around several times to loosen the grease suction that is on the White Pivot Joint Plastic Piece. I am certain that there is a technical name for this artificial joint/socket, but I don’t know it. The next part is fun, simply LIFT UP on the Shifter Arm to remove it, twist and pull. It will dislocate and pop out. Now get those rubber gloves on because it will get greasy.
14. It is time to swap the hardware from the OEM shifter to the Short Shifter. Give the Snap Ring a mild Twist to remove it from the Old Shaft. Take the Medium Flat Head and Push the Center Metal Shaft out of the Circular Center Joint of the OEM Shift Arm. Once the shaft is removed you can see a Small Gap between the Two (2) Stock Plastic Circular Joint Bushings. I would recommend using some type of Spray Lube to get these Hard Plastic Bushing Out. This will take some force to remove these because they are snug. Work the bushing out, DO NOT TRY TO PUSH in the same spot the entire time. You will have to work it from the OPPOSITE side at a 45 degree angle and in a Circular Motion. Once you get the first side out the second side is a bit easier, you’ll get a straight shot at the bushing. Last and not least you can simply twist the lower White Joint and it will pop off, this is the GREASEY Step. Once the white joint, both bushings, the shaft, and the snap ring are removed it is time to install the hardware on the Short Shifter.
15. Before I reinstalled any of the OEM parts I used a fair amount of the purchased grease on and in everything. You can use your judgment if you want to do this or not. So stop reading and get the Short Shifter Arm rebuilt with all of the factory parts. Don’t forget to install the Snap Ring, it is easier to do out of the car as versus in the car.
16. With the Short Shifter reassembled bring it back into the car and put it on a shop rag that can be thrown out. **I would recommend putting some of the Grease Lubricant on the Mechanical Shift Arm that goes through the body towards the Transmission.** Do this BEFORE you Install the new Short Shifter, it is MUCH EASIER TO ACCESS. I have provided a picture as a reference. Some people complain of the Mechanical Arm rubbing against the Gasket and creating a squeaky sound. While it is apart do it now and prevent a future nuisance.
17. If you want to put some grease in the base of the circular floor pan where the white socket was removed from do it now. To get the White Joint Socket back into the opening simply Pop it back in by putting a Downward Pressure on the arm. You can do this by hand, DO NOT USE a Rubber Hammer, it is an overkill. If you can’t do it by hand then it is not aligned properly. Once it pops in the Snap Ring is ready for reinstallation.
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