Subaru Crosstrek and XV Forums banner

Code P1449

85K views 35 replies 20 participants last post by  Usrl1967  
#1 ·
Has anyone had CEL come on for code P1449? The code is for evaporative emission cont. sys. air filter clog. I have no idea what that means. I've made an appointment to have this checked. I am just wondering what it is and how much to fix.
 
#2 ·
Do you have a hybrid?
 
#7 ·
My 2013 XV threw that code about a year ago. Seems spiders will build a web or block off that tube. Seems there is a small filter back there in the evap system that they like to build a web around. There is a TSB out on it. I was on the road at the time, 150 miles from home.
Took it into a Subi dealer in Winchester, Va, late on a Friday afternoon. They cleared the code for me, told me to take it to my local dealer at my convience. I did, they fixed the problem. For both dealers, a big thumbs up...no charge from either, and total time spent was under 30 minutes.
Grumpaw
 
#8 ·
I called my local dealer and told him the problem. They said they were familiar with that code and I asked if they had an idea how much to repair this. I was told it was a big job since they had to drop the tank. Probably cost around $600. I also asked if it was under the emissions warranty since my car has 69,000 miles. I was told no on that. I was under the car, and everything for the evap system is around the tank. Therefore, I see no reason why they would have to drop the tank. I think I'll call another Subaru dealer.
 
#10 ·
UPDATE I took my car to a local mechanic. He cleaned a few of the lines that were blocked up. He told me if it happens again, the vent filter would probably have to be replaced. It cost me $94. I also talked to a relative who is a Subaru mechanic and he said there have been a lot of problems with spider webs blocking the vent lines. But he informed me that the tank does not have to be removed.
 
#11 ·
So my check engine light came on in my '16 XV with 53,000 miles, I took it to AutoZone and got code P1449. I took it to a local shop and sure enough, it was a "huge" spider web blocking things up. They had never seen it before. I was charged $65 for labor to clean it out, which beats the $350-600 the dealership said it would cost to replace the EVAP filter.
 
#13 ·
With code readers being so cheap these days, I have the firm belief that anyone who can plug in a lamp, use a smart phone and do an internet search should own one so that they can better understand and save money on their car's maintenance. Even if you don't do the work yourself, you'll know how a relatively simple/cheap maintenance can save hundreds and may actually fix the problem where the more costly service won't.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Post like these are why I still come to this board. I like the technical help that is given here in troubleshooting and to permanently resolve issues, not the beat around the bush answers. Being a brutally honest person I enjoy when these shyster types get exposed.
Numerous times in the service waiting area you hear service writers with a dirty cabin filter in hand try to get $80 for replacement (where the filter was already removed, job half done) for a $20 part from some old lady or some young girl who was having some service done. If it were my shop I would only charge for the part and keep the customer coming back. Somewhere down the line these customers get told by friends and family that they were ripped off.
Thanks for looking out for consumers!
 
#16 ·
Let's try a easy fix first. I been resetting this for the last 6 month in order to get eyesight and other systems working again. Was waiting for warmer weather before i had to lower the front of the differential to get the charcoal canister out. It was clean as I reinstalled I got a air line and blew thru the 3 lines on the canister, also above the right rear axel is a white check valve with 2 half inch hoses removed them and blew air threw them also. If there was blockage ( spider webs ) or what ever I would clear the line. Cleared the code and has not returned. Was able to get thru emission inspection. Uncle Dee
 
#19 ·
I know I'm bumping an old thread here, but I've only ever lurked these forums and don't have enough replies to make my own thread yet so here we go -

Just recently bought a 2016 Impreza Sport 2.0i Premium with 124,004 miles on the clock. Car was in excellent shape aside from a worn rear bearing (already replaced, man that was easy) and a CEL with code P1449. Previous owner said he replaced the gas cap and when that didn't fix it he said "screw it, I live in a no-emissions-check county and it performs fine" so he stopped trying to remedy it.

Now I did some research beforehand and knew a few things to check, hoping I'd be able to find the issue and fix it quick. But here's the thing, I've checked everything I can think of and I'm still getting the code returning.

So yeah, P1449, car clears all other readiness checks but evap, no other pending codes.

Checklist so far:
-Replaced gas cap (P/O did, maybe I should test this new cap? nothing seems wrong with it)
-Pulled and checked Purge Control Solenoid Valve (per
) - holds closed, opens on 12v just fine, no blockages, no debris inside
-Pulled
-Pulled and checked Vapor Canister (circled in red), Emissions Check Valve (circled in blue), and Valve Canister Drain (circled in green) - this was a huge PITA and involved dropping the diff and exhaust, then a bunch of gymnastics to pop hoses of a wriggle these assemblies out from above the diff.
Image


I was sure I'd find an issue with one of these or the hoses connected to them, but everything was clean, flowed correctly, opened and operated correctly, etc. etc. I cleaned them all up and put everything back together exactly how it was, reset the code again, and BAM, threw P1449 on me after a 15 minute drive.

Now, it seems to specifically throw the code after clearing all other emissions readiness checks, and during a deceleration from 60mph down to low speed/stop without hitting the brakes (following recommendations on the optimal drive cycle to clear the checks).

I'm stumped and about to take it to a tech, but I'm not sure what they can check that I haven't already.

Any ideas anyone?
 
#21 ·
Same Issue: 2015 Crosstrek, 80k miles with CEL (yellow) on and flashing cruise and traction control indicators. Drove it 80 miles home and into the shop the next day.

Code: P1449, fuel tank vapor system.

Diagnosis: Vent plugged by spider web.

Resolution: Once the web was cleared and the computer reset, all clear.

Many thanks to Ackermans, Berkeley CA.
 
#22 ·
Dealer wanted $1400+ to replace Evap leak detection pump (Emissions check valve circled in blue above) so I replaced it myself along with the Evap vapor charcoal canister (circled in red), needless to say this was a PITA due to the placement. I also replaced the evap purge solenoid valve (under hood) and the P1449 keeps returning after driving a while. I can't see what other parts could be causing this and how can spiders create a web in a closed-off system of hoses and tubes?
 
#23 ·
Hi, the part numbered 42042B in the parts diagram above is the part that gets clogged. It plugs into the subframe to prevent water and snow from doing exactly what the spiderweb does - plug the vent. Literally 5 min check. It's the only part that is not encased in or controlled by the system
 
#29 ·
My problem was resolved when I removed a mouse nest which had been built next to the filter which is located alongside the fuel filler tube. I had to remove the rear passenger wheel, then the plastic wheel liner to find the filter and the nest was next to it. This was on a 2021 Crosstrek. Hope that helps.f
 
#31 ·
Our 2013 just threw a P1449 at 61k miles and this info was useful. @Bluediamond has a good description up above and I thought I would add to it.

The white plastic drain separator is the 'valve canister drain' circled in green in the explosion diagram above. The tube leading from the bottom of it (closest to the ground) goes to the elbow which connects to the frame.

This photo shows the view, it is just on the drivers side of the diff looking up. The elbow into the frame is in red, the tube to the 42084 is the blue arrow. I didn't want to break the elbow pulling it out of the frame so I just took a shopvac to the tube marked in blue (modified the end of the shopvac with duct tape).

Hopefully that fixes it, if not I'll update this.
Image