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Just trade in my Bridgestone Dueler HP Sport tires with Michelin Latitude Sport 3 235/55R18. Havent got chance to fully run in but already can tell improvement over cornering, comfort and less bouncy. Will need another 5k to run in and explore furyher. One biggest improvement so far for road use compared than strut bar etc.
 

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Just brought my 18 Crosstrek for alignment, saw the workshop using GP7 spec.
Quite disappointed that in 10k km, the alignment quite out of spec even though I did not really thrash the car or hit big pothole.
No uneven wear detected, but ends up the rear right camber only has -0 degree 38 minute on final reading when the left one is perfect at around -1 degree after all toe setting and front camber is corrected.
 

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Yeah if you're on track or going downhill a lot. You're heating up the brakes a lot more than in city driving; could also use manual downshift to lock the gears or X-mode.

Honda 2001 rotors never need to change, it was good thickness and no warp mainly only driven in city for 140k. It's really depends how long you heat up the rotors. Only changed the pads x3 on 140k lifetime.
Again, I'm disagreeing with "never need to change" - there are a LOT of factors that need to be considered.

You wrote, "Rotors last longer than your car unless you use your car on race track. Just waste of money"

That is wrong!
Actually depends on the car and pad usage, my Suzuki swift made it 250k miles with original rotor. The engine was overhauled and brake pad was replaced once.
 

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Finally get my CVT fluid changed with Redline and testing the Toyota Synthetic 0w20 motor oil, shift quality has improved noticeably, while still observing the engine oil temperature trend which typically only stabilize a week after brand change. So far noise level is good and engine seems rev lighter than Motul EcoLite 0w20. Perhaps to do second CVT drain next week to minimize contamination from old fluid.
 

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Finally installed AEM Dryflow with CAI, did not really follow instruction so got a few challenge to fit. First the heatshield hole is so small, it does not allow intake tube to go in with MAF attached. Second the heatshield top mounting stud need to be installed on the box and not the frame, otherwise it is tough to align for installation. Other is the whole set of intake, heat shield and air filter need to be installed as one package to fit, so bye bye maintenance except dismantle the whole thing.
Good part is to realize how restrictive the stock setup, the car now is more responsive and accelerate faster so I dont need to presss the gas pedal for so long to achieve the desired speed, so i would rate money well spent. The drawback is noise at high rpm is a bit too much so may not preferable if keep driving at 3500 rpm above continuosly. Will try on my next trip how bad it is but for urban driving this AEM is much better than stock airbox.
 

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Put on the crawford catch can, interestingly somehow mute a bit of engine noise and vibration, as well as less combustion noise. Installation is a bit tricky since it touch aircon compressor bolt, so need to add 2 nuts to raise its position.
 

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Just finish installing heatshield on the AEM CAI pipe and metal box to reduce heat soak, looks air intake temperature drop faster after the install. Waiting to have chance to test during hot day and park this week, would expect better fuel economy.
 

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Actually, warmer thinner air will make for a more rich mixture, unless adjusted by the computer, which I am sure the CT ECU does.

And yes, cooler air can increase power (depending if the ECU lets it). But in the end, in this case, it will not result in better fuel economy, so that point is correct.
Yep, I was assuming the ECU would compensate and lean the mixture...

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That is what I found out during hot day with the CAI heatsoaked (air intake detected >60 C), ECU compensate the mixture to be very rich . Original airbox never reach such temperature before.
 

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Today I open the MAP sensor and spray the CRC GDI cleaner, perhaps only for a quarter can and let it heat soaked for45 mins. Car start easily and I thought there is no more residue inside engine until I start drive and the engine keeps knocking during acceleration,
So I stop at kerb, race engine for short time to clear residue before driving again :LOL:.
Clear DTC, run on highway for af ew minutes and after 3-4 engine on-off cycle, everything is GREAT again! :love:
 

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Today receive 3 recall notice, brake hose, pcv valve and coil ecu program issue, so need to back to dealer and take out my aem intake. Really appreciate the silence and low-mid rpm torque, still monitor on fuel consumption change though
 

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Today i remove the crawford aos/catch can so I can go back to dealer to replace pcv. It surprise me that there is about 100ml oil inside the catch can that never goes back to engine, that makes me wonder if that cause the oil fume during hard acceleration. Since crawford provided hose that connect to pcv come without clamp but kind of stick to the valve, but around there has some oil greasy feeling, i wonder if the hose quality is not great on sealing off when engine is hot. Well, it seemed the catch can slow down the rate of performance deterioration before i need to use intake induction cleaner but the hose quality and amount oil still reside on catch can raise question on long run reliability of the catch can solution.
 

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Went for 60k service today since I could not stand the squeaky sound when riding hump. Found out the stabilizer bush dry and the hole inside get enlarged, so decided to change for the front ones. The rear get opened up and put more grease, and all turns to be quiet again. Just surprised that the bush can create so loud squeaky noise since all my previous cars never have same problem with squeaky noise, mostly just create bumping noise due to excessive clearance.
 

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My STI front support kit just arrived, and i brought my car to regular workshop to install. As usual sti product is very well designed and easy to install, even though for this need to take out the exhaust manifold and muffler to install. After install, i can feel the car is more linear on heavy turn. The install somehow changed the toe alignment a bit so did adjustment at some time. The linearity on the steering wheel boost the confidence during high speed turning.
 

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Replaced my air filter with k&n drop in model, and tested for a run. Got minor increase on response, went home and damn find th piotr video on k&n filtration test. So just find too much risk because i also can see holes on filter where I put in front of light, at the end take my new denso air filter and put it back to replace the k&n. Took the opportunity to clean the maf sensor, took another run to test, I think i can confirm the oem airbox has sufficient capacity and flow for the engine, so bye k&n and cold air intake.
 

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The pandemic somehow picked my interest to do carbon cleaning since the oil change is coming in 500 kms. So i saw the last can of b12 total combustion cleaner in my storage, as well as crc gdi cleaner. So i went to quiet place, and use the whole bottle of b12 with slightly higher rpm. So this time did not stall as bad as before, even though the sticky feel still can be detected after 10 mins drive. Reached home, i open the hood and finish my half bottle of crc gdi cleaning, it went well until i turned off engine without closing the windows. I tried to close on acc mode, it didnt work, and when i tried to start the car, the crank just spin slowly. So the engine couldnt start but i managed to close the window. Since crc recommend 1 full hour heat soaked, i leave the car for one and half hour.
Tried to start the engine, and voila it cranks fast and come to live immediately. So moral of the story i hate this on and off button and subaru e throttle also finicky to cause cleaner pooling, definitely need to race the engine longer before you shutdown the engine, to prevent difficult start afterwards. Hope this cleaning does not need to do often and I have installed catch can as well. So far the catch can catch a lot of oil every time even though not much moisture inside.
 

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Did second drive around after carbon cleaning, and can confirm performance is way much better, and feel a bit too much power for the aging suspension. The obd reports more decent timing advance during drive. So seems gdi problem is real even though it is way much better than 1st gen vw or audi that require blasting in 30k kms
 
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