Thunks are normal part of the relearn. What the transmission is "learning" is what pressure/volume/timing the forward clutch, reverse brake, and transfer clutch engage.

If you do not have any codes or a transmission light it is VERY doubtfull you have a valve body issue. The TCM is smart enough to know if a solenoid is acting up, it looks for current draw and back EMF which changes when the mechanical part of the solenoid is not working correctly.

Either you used an incompatible CVT fluid (non-Subaru) or you have developed an engine drivability issue - carbon buildup on valves, dirty injectors, worn/wrong plugs (should have been replaced at 60,000 miles) or some other engine performance issue.

Based on the information you provided in the OP the issue started after the first drain and fill - what CVT fluid did you use?

 

Genuine Subaru CVT fluid apologies that was a good detail I missed. I did the differentials, sparkplugs and CVT drain and fill at the 75,000 mile mark.

 

it is all depend on what price you can get, new, refurbished, used, change solenoid with aftermarket.
if you can source new one with good price then it may be the best, because not many workshop can provide long warranty for refurbished or aftermarket solenoid change.

 

I’d just drive it as-is until more symptoms show up.
Our 2024–25 does the same — it imitates fake gear shifts, which can sometimes make it feel like there’s something wrong with the CVT.
If there’s a bad valve, it’ll most likely trigger a check engine light (CEL) anyway.
Spark plugs replaced?

 

my experience on the valve body problem, it didnt throw CEL. The slight punch feeling when accelerating at the bottom rear has been happening occasionally for a while, but I brought it to workshop only when the punch really very noticeable and becomes more frequent.

The interesting part, when I reached workshop, i could not replicate the issue. The mechanic found the issue only when they put the car on the lift and engage Drive mode, they found only the front wheels rotating

 

Wow! 100% votes for solenoid replacement instead of the entire valve body. I'm presuming diyers willing to get down and dirty and save a ton of money compared to most repair shops and dealers going the valve body way to eliminate revisiting this repair.

What I'm curious of is when either valve body or solenoid are replaced, air in a hydraulic system becomes the temporary issue along with unusual valve body operation translated as erratic cvt operation until air is purged from passages. Perhaps the reason for using Subaru's SSM or aftermarket scan tool? Hydraulic operation relies on a system completely free of air. This can be understood from air in brake systems; poorly serviced brakes with air in brake lines results in the mushy pedal feel during braking or when flushing/bleeding procedures are performed until air is purged. I haven't come across anything about electronically controlled automatics using solenoid operated valve bodies requiring air purging. Food for thought.

 

i guess the difference between cvt and brake lines is in cvt they pump the fluid to circulate through, so no special air tool purge needed. Just follow standard cvt fluid change procedure, fill up until full. run the engine, operates gear throughout p,r,n,d and open the check port to confirm the fluid level.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't the 2014 have a bushing in the valve body, instead of bearings, and i thought that was the typical issue with valve body/solenoid failures. 2014 Crosstrek valve body failed at 190000km/118000Miles. I didn't notice anything before hand. I'd gone into town, shut the car off. Came back started the car, drove a little was then my dashboard lit up like a Xmas tree. Only thing, it during the summer, so a bit premature. I paid a shop to replace with Subaru part, wasn't cheap. Then a couple years ago, i happened to be checking some old documents on my computer and found a copy of something from subaru about extending the powertrain warranty and some verbiage about if the transmission had failed, there was a contact number etc. for reimbursement. Contacted them and to my surprised, the covered the cost of the solenoid but not the shop time because it wasn't Subaru shop.

 

Most common fault is the Lock-Up Duty Solenoid that controls the clutch in the torque converter. The coil in the solenoid would open or short, changing resistance.
This has been an issue with all automatic Subarus but since the advent of the CVT in 2010 it is a more common fault because the solenoid operates at near 99% duty cycle anytime the car is traveling over 7 MPH.

 

yeah i think the biggest difference I find after replacing the valve body is much better handling at the corner and less jerking when coasting and pressing and depressing the accelerator.

 

I vote for replacing the entire valve body at that point/milage. You are already in there. What's one more extra step? Cry once...pay once. Extend that peace of mind. My two cents.

 

I hear you on that. Was curious if anyone had experiences with the solenoid vs the valve body as a whole. Would like to prevent unnecessary damage to the CVT and I still don’t have a CEL for this issue.

 

My '13 CVT up & quit @ 100K+ miles. Valve bodies were going for $900 then. I saw about the solenoid replacement on you tube & found one on E-bay. That & the gasket was less than & 90. That worked for awhile until I got a bearing noise. I traded it in before it blew. My neighbor's '14 forester CVT crapped out & it cost her $1600 to have the valve body replaced. A couple of years & it's still running. She's 80 so I'm hoping that it lasts for as long as she can drive. (I do all her maintenance).