My key stopped stopped working so I replaced its battery. However, the car still won't respond to remote locking and unlocking. I consulted the manual and read that once the key's battery is replaced, one needs to resync it by pressing either the lock or the unlock button six times. I did that right next to the car, trying different speeds but nothing happens. I double checked that the battery was placed properly in the key (with the branding/positive side facing down) and tried again. Nothing. Then I tried using the back up key, found that that battery was dead too, so I replaced it, tried resyncing that key and got the same result. I then bought new batteries from a different brand (CR1620 again, of course) and tried those in both keys and still got nothing. The car's battery was replaced less than a year ago and was working fine all this time so I don't think that's the issue. If I unlock the car using the key and try turning the ignition, the lights in the dash come on but the car won't start. Something strange I noticed was that when I opened both keys to replace the battery the little compartment with the RFID chip was empty. Is that normal? I saw online there is supposed to be something there but in both of my keys there was nothing in that little compartment. Can someone please give me some guidance here? Thank you so much!
Giles
Models without "keyless access with push-button start system":
Press any button on the remote transmitter (except when the transmitter battery is discharged).
Insert the key into the ignition switch and turn the ignition switch to "ON".
Unless I'm mistaken, most key and keyless remotes use CR 2032 batteries.
![Image]()
Press any button on the remote transmitter (except when the transmitter battery is discharged).
Insert the key into the ignition switch and turn the ignition switch to "ON".
Unless I'm mistaken, most key and keyless remotes use CR 2032 batteries.
My apology about battery numbers and resyncing remotes after battery replacement. Without any more info, two remotes failing to operate, my guess leans towards possible immobilizer fault or failure. While not likely failure, possibly blown fuse? Below is a wiring diagram of the immobilizer circuit. If fuse(s) are good, you may have to call a mobile tech ot have your Subaru towed to Subaru for technical diagnosing.
![Image]()
The fob battery has nothing to do with the transponder in a non-pushstart car.
These may be obvious, but please clarify by answering these questions:
Are these the keys that worked with the car previously?
Do you have and does the valet key work (the key without buttons)?
Referencing the image below - you are saying the rectangle compartment on the lower right of the key above the words "ALLKEYLESS" is empty? Did the transponders fall out when you opened the keys? It should look just like the picture.
Did you have to jump start the car right before all this happened, and did you hook the jumper up backwards?
Does the security light illuminate and stay on when you turn the key on and try to start the car?
With the key on and the HVAC fan on high what happens when you turn the headlights on high beam?
![Image]()
These may be obvious, but please clarify by answering these questions:
Are these the keys that worked with the car previously?
Do you have and does the valet key work (the key without buttons)?
Referencing the image below - you are saying the rectangle compartment on the lower right of the key above the words "ALLKEYLESS" is empty? Did the transponders fall out when you opened the keys? It should look just like the picture.
Did you have to jump start the car right before all this happened, and did you hook the jumper up backwards?
Does the security light illuminate and stay on when you turn the key on and try to start the car?
With the key on and the HVAC fan on high what happens when you turn the headlights on high beam?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
