Subaru Crosstrek and XV Forums banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,
I would love to have an audio expert double-check my findings before button up my install.

I'm replacing the stock dash tweeters with the 3.5" Infinity Reference speakers (REF-3032cfx). Others have posted positive reviews here and said they're a drop-in replacement. I can confirm they physically fit I'm just not sure about the electrical connection.
Hood Motor vehicle Car Automotive design Automotive tire


My assumption is filters are always put on the speaker's positive terminal. That's the case on the Infinity and so I'm assuming that holds true for the oem tweeter, is this accurate?
Automotive tire Font Gadget Cable Audio equipment

In which case the Metra wire harness is backwards and I should flip the connectors (Metra 72-8110) ?

My second question is, are the bass blockers (included with the speakers) necessary? I'm not seeing a bass blocker on the oem tweeter and both the oem and Infinity speakers have similar sized filters mounted to them (6.8uF oem, 5uF IR).

Here's one of the included bass blockers (270uF)
Circuit component Passive circuit component Capacitor Resistor Audio equipment


I'm wondering if the system already has something wired in and these additional filters aren't needed?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Flipped the wires, skipped the filters, holy ____ !! what an improvement!
The Rockford Fosgate kit was barely noticeable compared to this. I'll definitely need to upgrade the front doors again and throw in some better speakers in the rear as well now.
 

·
Registered
2023 Crosstrek Sport (Canadian) in Magnetite Gray Metallic
Joined
·
80 Posts
The filters on the speakers themselves are most likely high-pass (aka bass blockers). It appears that the capacitors are in series with one of the connections, which blocks low frequencies. What those frequencies are depends on the rest of the system.

I think bass blockers are only really needed at higher volumes, so you may or may not need bass blockers. You may hear that the dash speakers are distorting, humming, or making some other unintended noise without bass blockers, but the effects may also be inaudible - heat being the big one - and may reduce the life of the speaker.

I'd use the bass blocker and compare, since you already have them. If you can't tell the difference, or you can live with what difference there is, it might pay off in the long run.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
870 Posts
Thanks for the review. Those were the units I was going to install in the family's MY18. Already did the RF upgrade kit and installed RF speakers in the rear doors. If you have not done the rear doors yet, I'd opt out for the same brand(IE Infinity).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Good choice. I have replaced with the same and also door speakers with reference models. Huge difference. The sound of the 18 XV is now BETTER than from Harman Kardon in my 19 Outback. stronger, louder and crispier. I wish that I could modify HK in the Outback with Infinity speakers instead but concluded (reading Outback forums) that it can not be done.

BTW, i had to modify Metra connectors as well. The factory wires in the dash have not matched with speakers, I do not remember exactly all the details it was 3 years ago.

If anyone is interested in details I can look it up in my files per request.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
As you surmised, the filters included on the speakers are wired inline with the tweeter (as it's a coaxial 2-way speaker).

Before I finished the install I checked the speakers response and Infinity claims they're good for 85Hz-21kHz (and 75W !!! )without the blockers. That's about the same sort of range as the front door speakers ought to handle and I'm assuming the DSP in the amp ought to have been setup with it's own high pass filter/crossover setup for the front & rear channels.
I'll try to update this if they eventually fail.

They really moved the sound-stage up. I spent a bit of time driving around listening to it yesterday with the EQ flat and it's fairly bright, so I'll probably bring the treble down a notch or two. The tweeters in the Infinitys are not piercing like I've experienced in some cars. If there was no EQ I would still be 100% happy with them.

I did order some RF speakers for the rear doors. I wanted to get the Infinity Ref-6532ex, but Crutchfield currently has them on backorder. I ordered the front door adapter kit at the same time, so I'll swap the front RF speakers that came in the kit for the RF Punch 6x9's I already had kicking around in my shop.
 

·
Registered
2021 Crosstrek Sport Cool Gray Khaki
Joined
·
220 Posts
Are any of you adding an amplifier to these speakers (dash, front and/or rear doors) or just running them off the factory head unit. For those not amplifying, are you happy with the results?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I did the Subaru Rockford Fosgate upgrade kit first which added an amplifier under the passenger seat.
If you're listening at reasonable levels, the stock head unit should be fine powering the infinity 3.5 speakers in place of the factory tweeters and likely the same if you upgrade the door speakers. As long as you match the impedence of the speakers, you shouldn't really draw any more power at the same volume levels. If anything better speakers usually give you a bit more volume at the same power draw.
I would go through the wizard on Crutchfield and let it point you towards compatible speakers. They also include the wiring adapters, mounting adapters, and instructions if you've gone through the wizard. They don't always have what I want in stock, but that's about my only complaint.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
870 Posts
Are any of you adding an amplifier to these speakers (dash, front and/or rear doors) or just running them off the factory head unit. For those not amplifying, are you happy with the results?
I already have the RF audio upgrade(amp, front dr speakers) and RF speakers in the rear doors installed. The factory upgrade kit was a bargain when I installed it at $300. They are an improvement for sure but for me, I always felt it has been unbalanced without all the speakers upgraded. The stock speakers in the family's MY18 are horrid. The only change I would have gone with is using Infinity units for the rear doors as I think they are a better speaker.
 

·
Registered
2021 Crosstrek Sport Cool Gray Khaki
Joined
·
220 Posts
The problem I am having with selecting speakers is that I cannot find the range of power the speakers are designed for, only the max power ratings. Rockford Fosgate R1675X2 show 2-45 watts and their P1692 show 6-75 watts on Crutchfield, which means they would run well on the factory head unit, but I have never cared for the sound of the Rockfords (no offense to anyone who did the upgrade). Crutchfield also has the brands Sound Ordnance and Retrosound that give ranges but I have never heard of these.

I had Polk MM components in my former Forester with a nice aftermarket head unit and big nasty amps to drive them and I loved the sound, but I am not up for those modifications or pulling my dash apart on my 21 Sport. I would like to get the Polk DB652, and their sensitivity is 92 dB, but I know how power hungry Polks are and I dont think I would be happy without an amp. The Infinity REF6232EX for the front and rear doors are rated at 93 dB but are 3 ohm instead of 4 ohm, but there is still no wattage range listed. The Infinity claim "compatible with virtually all factory or aftermarket car stereos" but without anything else, that is meaningless. Any speaker is compatible and will play, it is just a matter of what you want out of it and most do better with amps.

If I need to, I guess I can add the small Alpine amp behind the factory unit, but I really dont want to go that route either. It is not a lot of power and would involve tearing into the dash which I dont want to do.

One other concern - in earlier posts there were issues with changing the dash speakers interfering with Starlink due to the resistance of the aftermarket speaker being sensed. Did installing the Infinities in the dash cause any issues there?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,131 Posts
I love my 3032's, but I am very certain that you have the wrong capacitor.

I think bass blockers are only really needed at higher volumes, so you may or may not need bass blockers. You may hear that the dash speakers are distorting, humming, or making some other unintended noise without bass blockers, but the effects may also be inaudible - heat being the big one - and may reduce the life of the speaker.
Sorry, that's not quite right.

Blockers are needed at all volume levels because the speaker isn't designed to handle those frequencies however, it will still process them, auditable or not.

Lower frequencies require more power to reproduce, than higher frequencies. Adding bass blockers removes that power from circuit, bleeding it off as heat from the capacitor case. Keep that puppy off of things, or insulated. If that power went to the voice coil, it would eventually damage the voice coil because it converts the power excess into heat, as it attempts to process it.
____

I almost wrote a huge pile of info. Them I realized it wasn't necessary.

Go to Crutchfield, search for "bass blockers" and read the overview..

"Speaker Size Cut-off Frequency

3-1/2", 4", 4"x6"
— 600 Hz (low power)

3-1/2", 4", 4"x6" — 800 Hz (high power)"



FYSA; I used 800 Hz cutoffs (50uf) on my amplified 3032cfx's. The main reason is because the OEM setup only has one front channel, split into a parallel circuit between the door and dash. 2 X 4Ω speakers on 1 circuit = 2Ω resistance.

When I rewired the whole thing with 12AWG (a huge improvement over tiny OEM speaker wires), I kept the parallel circuit because my amp can independently run front and rear channels @ 2Ω or 4Ω, many cant.

And now I'd be starting the stuff that I threw out, because it was too long. In short:

With a 270uf
1. On a 4Ω speaker circuit, cutoff frequency is about 147 Hz, you get all vocal and then some lower freqs. (here
)
2. On a 2Ω speaker circuit, your cutting of @ about 295 Hz (here
)

With a 50uf
3. On a 4Ω speaker circuit, with an 50uf first order capacitor, my cutoff frequency is about 800 Hz. (
)
4. On a 2Ω speaker circuit, with an 50uf first order capacitor, my cutoff frequency is about 100 Hz. (
) - the money shot.


Pop your speaker lines at source and test resistance. It won't be 2 or 4 because it'll be counting line resistance, which is good. That'll tell you exactly what capacitor you actually need.
When you have the value of resistance, do the match and away you go.

I love this site: Basic Car Audio Electronics.
Specifically, check out section 54. Don't forget to calculate for roll-off values, if you like the challenge, but don't stress about that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,131 Posts
@ND Trekkie

Many speaker manufacturers make them 3Ω. The purpose is to provide room on the circuit for line resistance. The idea being [3Ω speaker + wiring = 4Ω on the circuit}

There is an answer to the compatible vs not compatible to factory system comment. The short one is the power required to effectively drive the speaker. Many OEM systems can't give them enough power to make them sound their best.

REFERENCE 6532EX


General Specifications
Description6-1/2" (160mm) shallow-mount coaxial car speaker
Power Handling55W RMS, 165W peak
Sensitivity (@ 2.83V)93dB
Frequency Response57Hz – 21kHzImpedance3.0 ohms

(Reference 6532ex | 6-1/2" (160mm) shallow-mount coaxial car speaker, 165W)
 

·
Registered
2021 Crosstrek Sport Cool Gray Khaki
Joined
·
220 Posts
"Power Handling55W RMS, 165W peak"

This is the question I have - it only states RMS and peak power handling. Not a range, ie 5-55 W. So, I dont know what the minimum power needed is to drive the speaker. I would guess that the larger the magnet, the larger minimum power needed, but it would be nice to have a number.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Hi guys!! First time Subaru owner here…was actually looking at upgrading my stock system with the Infinity reference speakers. What I gather is they are an improvement even over the premium RF speakers? I would probably run amplification and add a subwoofer, since I already sound deadened all of the doors (to try and improve SQ and road noise for the stock system…LMAO) rattling and road noise should be no issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,131 Posts
"Power Handling55W RMS, 165W peak"

This is the question I have - it only states RMS and peak power handling. Not a range, ie 5-55 W. So, I dont know what the minimum power needed is to drive the speaker. I would guess that the larger the magnet, the larger minimum power needed, but it would be nice to have a number.

I've never seen a minimum power rating on consumer grade speakers. It's not relevant because they'll function with any voltage applied; it's just that they may not sound their best until your driving them somewhere in the top 1/3 of their RMS. Most people can't audibly notice when a driver is at peak performance.

If that's the number you're looking for, that'll tell you what you need to buy the amplifier you want.
Alternatively, you can test what your speakers are currently receiving, at any given head unit volume. The idea is that you calculate the wattage at your volume (voltage) preference and select your new speakers based on that figure.

Where this talks about measuring at the amplifier outputs, you can remove the speaker and measure across the wire.

This is why consumer grade doesn't care about that.
 

·
Registered
2021 Crosstrek Limited
Joined
·
2,716 Posts
I put infinity reference speakers in my 2009 Impreza. I set the tweeters half way, not to have piercing highs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Go to Crutchfield, search for "bass blockers" and read the overview..

"Speaker Size Cut-off Frequency

3-1/2", 4", 4"x6"
— 600 Hz (low power)

3-1/2", 4", 4"x6" — 800 Hz (high power)"

FYSA; I used 800 Hz cutoffs (50uf) on my amplified 3032cfx's. The main reason is because the OEM setup only has one front channel, split into a parallel circuit between the door and dash. 2 X 4Ω speakers on 1 circuit = 2Ω resistance.
Those Crutchfield numbers for the bass blocker are based on a 4ohm impedance speaker. Since the 3032's are 3ohm speakers, you're actually installed a 1050hz bass blocker.

For an 800hz bass blocker, you actually need a 66uf capacitor. 66uf isn't easy to find, but you could wire 2 33uf's in parallel and get the same result. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075K8C6VK/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=AGNQZEOF5D5M3&psc=1

Personally, I made my own bass blocker using 94uf (2x 47uf capacitors in parallel) which is about a 560hz blocker. Works great for me until I swap it all out for a 3-way active system I'm planning to do soon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Do you need a wire harness for the tweeter upgrade with the 3032s? Or just unplug Subaru tweeters, plug the new ones?
You can get adapters, I used these. They work perfect, and plenty of room to cut the (+) and add in the bass blocker.

You can go without adapters, but that means you would have to cut the factory wires and add ends, which can be tedious up in the dash area cause there isn't a lot of room.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top