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Discussion Starter #1
Looking to install some new tires/wheels after I put the lift on next week. I have a few questions re: TPMS for everyone who’s lifted their ride... I tried to find this using search, apologies if I missed it.

- Did you just reuse your stock sensors? If so, did you reuse the stock spare TPMS on a full size spare as well?

- if you replaced them, you go with new Subaru OEM ($55 ea) or another brand?

- What pressure you run on your lifted tires? And (apologies, I have no exp with TPMS...), can they recalibrate the TPMS to your ‘new’ everyday pressure?

New tires are Falken Wildpeak 235/75-r15.

Again, sorry if this is posted elsewhere. If so, pls drop a link and I’ll delete (unless moderators beat me to it...). Thanks all!
 

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There is no TPMS on the spare. The car can only work with 4 TPMS sensors at a time
 
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Discussion Starter #3
There is no TPMS on the spare. The car can only work with 4 TPMS sensors at a time
Thanks Sheldon. So, with that said, how are people with full size spares updating to the new sensor when you swap in your spare tire to the rotation?

People have TPMS tools at home and add/change as needed?
 

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Thanks Sheldon. So, with that said, how are people with full size spares updating to the new sensor when you swap in your spare tire to the rotation?

People have TPMS tools at home and add/change as needed?
Yes,after putting the spare into the rotation,you will need a tool to do the sensor relearn procedure so the car will recognize it's sensor ID.I use the Autel Ts508 for this when I swap my winter tires/wheels.Among other things,it can also change values in the cars computer to allow you to run your tires at higher or lower pressures than factory without triggering a TPMS warning.The Ts508 can be had by itself for<$200.If you shop around,you can get the tool with a set of 8 sensors and valve stems.When you add up the cost of the sensors and stems,the tool is just about free.I consider this to be a must have for any toolbox belonging to anyone with a modern car.
 

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You'll have to relearn the car to the tpms sensors if you change sensors. As to using a full sized spare, that brings up an interesting problem. If you are going to have a true 5th wheel that you rotate in, you'll need tpms in each of the 5 wheels and then reprogram the car to the new wheel every time you rotate tires. If your spare is just a spare, you can go without tpms on it, with the knowledge that if you need to use it the dashboard light will be activated until you put the regular wheel back on.

Unfortunately, yes today you probably need to own the tpms tool. I gave in and bought it for swapping summer/winter wheels on the Subaru.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Unfortunately, yes today you probably need to own the tpms tool. I gave in and bought it for swapping summer/winter wheels on the Subaru.
Thanks. I’m starting to get the feeling I should pick one up too...

Which tool did you get? I saw that Mario recommended the Ts508...

After 17.5 yrs with my WRX (before the tread law) and not dealing with TPMS, I feel kinda held prisoner to another tool... my luck, it won’t work in the wife’s car (2019 Ascent) and I’ll have to hear about buying another expensive tool that’s only for me, or it stops being supported after 5yrs... sorry, /rant
 

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Thanks. I’m starting to get the feeling I should pick one up too...

Which tool did you get? I saw that Mario recommended the Ts508...

After 17.5 yrs with my WRX (before the tread law) and not dealing with TPMS, I feel kinda held prisoner to another tool... my luck, it won’t work in the wife’s car (2019 Ascent) and I’ll have to hear about buying another expensive tool that’s only for me, or it stops being supported after 5yrs... sorry, /rant
The Ts508 will work just fine on the Ascent,any other Subaru,any other car you can name that has TPMS and likely,many more that you can't name.

As far as support goes.There's no way of knowing how long any tool like this will be supported.The Ts508 is a pro level tool with free lifetime updates and will be supported for that 5 years and likely will be for many more.Other,more expensive tools,require an annual subscription to keep it up to date and support could also end at any time.When Subaru switched to the 433 Mhz sensors,people with a Ts508 got it updated and were able to get the job done even before the dealer could.How's that for support?

I paid Tirerack something like $40 US each for sensors in my snowtire and wheel set.I got the Ts508 with 8 sensors for $340.At $40x8=$320 worth of sensors.That means I got the Ts508 for just $20.I've had it for a year and a half and about to do my 3rd tire swap with it.Among other things.Even if they stopped supporting it today,I would still consider it money well spent.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just picked up the TS508 with 8 of Autel’s 1-valves for ~$310 after tax, due to arrive the day I’m putting the lift on later this week. I found a special thru one of the nationwide auto parts shops that got me free shipping and 15% off.

Thanks for the input!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
FWIW, posting this website re: figuring out ideal pressure for new tires that are different size from stock, and may not be on your door label plate (apologies if this is a foul of any posting rules...?).


According to this, my new tires only need approx 28psi compared to the stock size 32-33. I figure I’d do the chalk test to verify once they’re on.
 

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FWIW, posting this website re: figuring out ideal pressure for new tires that are different size from stock, and may not be on your door label plate (apologies if this is a foul of any posting rules...?).


According to this, my new tires only need approx 28psi compared to the stock size 32-33. I figure I’d do the chalk test to verify once they’re on.
That site is referencing maximum load capability of the tire, not the recommended inflation for every day driving. You need to be sure the new tires can carry the full maximum weight of your car, which for us should never be a problem. If you're hauling heavy loads in a truck then I could see how you would want to run the numbers.

The 28psi that site says for your tire size just means that, if the tire is rated for it, your new tires at 28psi can carry the same maximum load as your oem tires at oem inflation. Your new tires may be capable of carrying more (or less) total weight than your original tires, which is only of concern if you are going to actually run at such heavy weights.

As to proper inflation, when we aren't using a size recommended in the owners manual we are simply guessing as to correct inflation. The chalk method is only a vague indication of if you are grossly over or under inflated, but imho it isn't a useful tool for finding your every day inflation.
 

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2021 Crosstrek Limited, Magnetite Grey, 1.5" ADF lift, RRW RR2-V 15x7, Geolandar G015 235/70R15
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FWIW, posting this website re: figuring out ideal pressure for new tires that are different size from stock, and may not be on your door label plate (apologies if this is a foul of any posting rules...?).


According to this, my new tires only need approx 28psi compared to the stock size 32-33. I figure I’d do the chalk test to verify once they’re on.
The Crosstrek inflation pressures are 33 PSI front 32 PSI rear. This corresponds to a load rating of 1610lbs per tire in the front and 1590lbs pre tire in the rear. I used the link to that web site and it's spot on to the load tables and conversions I'm guessing you're looking at a tire with a load rating of 102. My experience going to a larger size than factory on most vehicles I have owned is even though the lower pressure is technically fine from a load standpoint they may not have the "feel" you're looking for. I tend to run mine a few PSI higher. I'm running 235/70R15 102T Geolanders at 31 PSI front and 30 rear, tehcinically to keep factory load rating I should have run them at 27front/26rear but at 26 psi they were too soft and the handling was wallowy and sluggish.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The 28psi that site says for your tire size just means that, if the tire is rated for it, your new tires at 28psi can carry the same maximum load as your oem tires at oem inflation. Your new tires may be capable of carrying more (or less) total weight than your original tires, which is only of concern if you are going to actually run at such heavy weights.
Correct - my intent was to find out the everyday/normal loading pressure (i.e., similar loading that lead to the stock psi of 32/33). I knew the new tires could carry more at lower pressure, just didn't know what would nominal psi is at the normal load and don't want to overinflate unnecessarily. I do appreciate you further clarifying the website data for anyone that may stumble upon the post.

My experience going to a larger size than factory on most vehicles I have owned is even though the lower pressure is technically fine from a load standpoint they may not have the "feel" you're looking for. I tend to run mine a few PSI higher. I'm running 235/70R15 102T Geolanders at 31 PSI front and 30 rear, tehcinically to keep factory load rating I should have run them at 27front/26rear but at 26 psi they were too soft and the handling was wallowy and sluggish.
To 21limited's point, I don't know how it'll feel/handle yet (and I usually don't go 100% off what I read on the internet) so, the chalk test will be an attempt to check it. I've had mixed experience w/ it in the past, as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The Ts508 will work just fine on the Ascent,any other Subaru,any other car you can name that has TPMS and likely,many more that you can't name.
Got the TS508 in the mail yesterday, pretty easy to use and had everything lined up for mount and balance today.

For the spare, do I use Auto Create to make a new ID? Then just roll that into the mix at tire rotations and relearn?
 

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Got the TS508 in the mail yesterday, pretty easy to use and had everything lined up for mount and balance today.

For the spare, do I use Auto Create to make a new ID? Then just roll that into the mix at tire rotations and relearn?
Yes,that's all you have to do.

I see you have a '21 model.I think it's safe to say that you have push button start?The TS508 also has a feature to check the health of your key fob.I have heard that when the battery gets low,the car will start and drive just fine.That's until you get to say the gas station and shut the engine off for a few minutes.When you are ready to leave,the engine won't start and you'll be call a tow truck.
 

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I didn't read all the posts.

I tend to just up and sell my stock set up with the TPMS included. This lets me set the price higher. It saves me the money spent at a shop removing the sensors.

I buy sensors with my new wheels and tires. Discount Tire is awesome for this. They will connect the new tires to your car as a service. I buy my tires and wheels online and have them sent to me. That way I don't have to deal with sales pitches and gripes about "that won't fit your car" at the shop. I just show up with my receipt and ask for them to match them. (I put the wheels on my car myself, more money saved)

discounttiredirectcom

Also. Avoid 15s if you want to go into mud.
This is what happens when rocks get caught between the brakes and wheels.

You can get a bigger tire in a 16 or 17.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I see you have a '21 model.I think it's safe to say that you have push button start?
No, got a manual - no nice features like that in a manual... but I did see something about that in the directions.

I did sat my wife’s key on her bumper one time to unload groceries or something. She thought they were in her purse still... she started the car and drove to another errand, key fell off somewhere along the way (no warning from car btw), stuck at destination until I brought the spare... ugh. Wasted quite a few bucks getting a new fob, think was about $350 for fob and programming to her car (and I’ll never live it down...).
 

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No, got a manual - no nice features like that in a manual... but I did see something about that in the directions.

I did sat my wife’s key on her bumper one time to unload groceries or something. She thought they were in her purse still... she started the car and drove to another errand, key fell off somewhere along the way (no warning from car btw), stuck at destination until I brought the spare... ugh. Wasted quite a few bucks getting a new fob, think was about $350 for fob and programming to her car (and I’ll never live it down...).
Actually,I don't think PBS is a nice feature.That's one reason I kept my '16 premium.It has a CVT but it also has a metal key,without which you go nowhere.It's impossible to leave the key behind as your wife did.

When,not if,when,the battery goes dead in your wife's fob,the same thing will happen as when she lost it.It can't communicate with car so the car won't start.If you use the TS508 to test her fob from time to time,you will know when it's getting weak and you can change the battery before she gets stranded again.
 

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Just picked up the TS508 with 8 of Autel’s 1-valves for ~$310 after tax, due to arrive the day I’m putting the lift on later this week. I found a special thru one of the nationwide auto parts shops that got me free shipping and 15% off.

Thanks for the input!
Mind sharing where you got this deal? Everything worked out good for you swapping wheels/sensors with this tool? I’m in the same boat as you, and if I’m going to spend $220 on oem sensors and then have to pay to get them mapped why not pay the extra $90 and get the tool and extra sensors.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Mind sharing where you got this deal?
I got it at O’Reilly auto parts online. I did a shopping search on Google and it came up as one of the cheapest prices. Then I found a coupon code that brought it down more - can’t remember but think it may have been a St Patrick’s Day sale.
 
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