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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Mike,
When you Dynamat your truck, just a money saving tip. You don’t need 100% coverage, or even close to it.
(I’m a rep for Dynamat)
A few squares on the outer skin will drop road noise drastically. Higher coverage on the inner skins (where the door panel mounts) will give you that deeper “thud” when closing the door.
The pre-cut kits sold for various models don’t provide 100% coverage. Not to be cheap, but because it isn’t needed.
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I have a limited amount of sound proofing material available, and thinking of doing some to my 2018 Crosstrek. I have enough to do the spare wheel area under the cargo floor. Is this worth while? Where is the biggest bang for the buck? I have about 18 sq ft of material to use.

I get a lot of road noise from my BFG K02s, and would like to quiet some of that.
 

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Best bang for your buck would be outer door skins, roof, and floor board.

I’d probably split that much like this:
~ 2sqft in each front door
~ 1.5 sqft in each rear door
~ 1.5 sqft on each front floor board and cargo area
The rest under the headliner

Basically, anywhere there is a big flat piece of metal.

Outer door skins will give you the most noticeable benefit, so focus on there first. Then the headliner. Anything left over on the floor board (split between front seat floorboard and rear cargo area).


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Discussion Starter #3
Best bang for your buck would be outer door skins, roof, and floor board.

I’d probably split that much like this:
~ 2sqft in each front door
~ 1.5 sqft in each rear door
~ 1.5 sqft on each front floor board and cargo area
The rest under the headliner

Basically, anywhere there is a big flat piece of metal.

Outer door skins will give you the most noticeable benefit, so focus on there first. Then the headliner. Anything left over on the floor board (split between front seat floorboard and rear cargo area).


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Great info. Thanks.
 

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Just to add but in my last hatchback there was a lot of noise from the spare tire area and side walls of the rear cargo area/hatch that leaked in due to less padding/carpet. Adding batt insulation where there is room was helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Can someone lead me to some posts about how to remove door panels? I had a quick glance at my doors, and didn't see any clips or screws to remove.
 

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On the front doors there is one screw behind the interior door handle and one inside the pull handle. and then 6-8 clips around the perimeter. You just pull away from the door with a trim tool and pop them, then lift the panel up and out over the top sill.

There's the lock/handle cables and the speaker connectors back behind there.

The back doors should be similar.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
On the front doors there is one screw behind the interior door handle and one inside the pull handle. and then 6-8 clips around the perimeter. You just pull away from the door with a trim tool and pop them, then lift the panel up and out over the top sill.
There's the lock/handle cables and the speaker connectors back behind there.
The back doors should be similar.
Hmmm, maybe I am blind, but I just looked again, and did not see any screws behind or inside the door handle, or clips on the perimeter of the panel.

I have a 2018 Limited, in case they are different.
 

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Hmmm, maybe I am blind, but I just looked again, and did not see any screws behind or inside the door handle, or clips on the perimeter of the panel.

I have a 2018 Limited, in case they are different.
The screw is behind a little square piece of plastic. It has a tiny notch that you stick a flathead under to pop it out.


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Discussion Starter #9
The screw is behind a little square piece of plastic. It has a tiny notch that you stick a flathead under to pop it out.
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OK, I see the little squ plastic piece at the front of the front door panel, but it is nowhere near the handles. And what about the perimeter clips, where are they?

Also looked at the rear door, and no little plastic square on them, and no clips.
 

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duh, i found a thread here. no more explanation needed lol

 

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Discussion Starter #12
Wow, those are great links, and exactly what I was looking for. Thank you very much.
 

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This Poor Man's Sound Deadener Solution:

I've never used Dynamat but was wondering if there might be other low cost alternatives. I keep a roll of something called Quick Roof I picked up at Home Depot a few years ago. It's a 6 inch wide roll of foil backed Butyl product intended for patching gutters or RV roofs. It has really good adhesion as long as the surface your sticking it to is clean and dry. I've used it for sound deadening for some small speaker enclosures at home and it did the job. I suspect it should work really well for cars as it seem very similar to the expensive stuff. A little thinner perhaps. I went on HDs web site and didn't find the silver colored backing of the product I purchased but they do have it with a white vinyl backing and a possible similar product.


The stuff I have is from Cofair Products Inc.
ProAluminum seems to what what I've been using.
In cold weather, I've used a heat gun to help it adhere when when pressing or rolling it on.
 

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I have used raammat a few times, figure if I have the panels off I would rather spend a few bucks for something at least made for it :cool: I did all 4 doors, and the rear hatch with raammat on my 2019 a month after getting it. Not sure how much of a difference it made for road noise, definitely tightened up the bass. And now I will never wonder "what if"
 

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This Poor Man's Sound Deadener Solution:

I've never used Dynamat but was wondering if there might be other low cost alternatives. I keep a roll of something called Quick Roof I picked up at Home Depot a few years ago. It's a 6 inch wide roll of foil backed Butyl product intended for patching gutters or RV roofs. It has really good adhesion as long as the surface your sticking it to is clean and dry. I've used it for sound deadening for some small speaker enclosures at home and it did the job. I suspect it should work really well for cars as it seem very similar to the expensive stuff. A little thinner perhaps. I went on HDs web site and didn't find the silver colored backing of the product I purchased but they do have it with a white vinyl backing and a possible similar product.


The stuff I have is from Cofair Products Inc.
ProAluminum seems to what what I've been using.
In cold weather, I've used a heat gun to help it adhere when when pressing or rolling it on.
I have used some of the "poor man's sound deadening" in the past, and it just doesn't perform the same. I am not saying this because I rep Dynamat. The chemical makeup is vastly different. The products you listed have a tendency to harden after a while, and I have seen it crack and fall off in little shards, like broken glass.
 
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