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I couldn't get that trick to work while having to be conservative for a spinal issue, and when I was down there under the car struggling I was getting a bit envious of the the ones that got the trick to work. What finally worked for me was just shimming the rubber bushing back to make space, and then the differential plate can just slip in from there effortlessly. Then I just tapped the plate up with a mallet to make sure it's nice and secure. I think this trick helped a few fellow members, and I thought I'd post here again too for the future readers.


Thanks for the pic Wrigman! The silver sticker looks awesome. (I got green.)
We all use whatever tricks work for us! Bravo on another one explained up here! Good job...
 

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Uh hate to ask but I'll probably need to know when I get my diff shield. What do you mean by: "the old "tie down on the crossmember and foot" trick......".?? Please?
There is a cross member that the rear diff bolts to towards the front of the housing, I loosened the top bolts that hold the diff to the sub frame as instructed by paul on the sheet(top rear of diff housing), then, used a tie down strap to go to either side of the crossmember, hooked the ends of the tie down, then extended the tie down to a comfortable length, and put my foot in the "sling" and pushed the diff forward, while pushing the skid up into the studs that it needs To go onto. It took a few tries to get the timing right, but the skid just pushed into place when I got it right....... Hope this helps. If you don't yet have your skid, you'll get it when you look at it all......
 

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If you guys and gals could give me an me an estimate
on how long it takes to install front plate only with plastic gaurd left in place. What would it be?
 

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Look what I got in the mail last night. Can anyone guess what it's is

Edit: I attemped to do a video openning up the box, It didnt work out. I may take pictures of the install
 

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If you guys and gals could give me an me an estimate
on how long it takes to install front plate only with plastic gaurd left in place. What would it be?
I'd say about a half hour to an hour should be a safe bet. It's just got the 4 mounting points to deal with, but I had to crawl in and out from under the car to get tools when I was figuring out what I wanted to do with the plastic tray.

Please watch out for the torque specs. There are posts from forum members where they have overtorqued the bolts to the point where the plates couldn't be mounted without repairing the thread.

Have a good install!
 

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Yep, I'm equipped with the plates and SSD Bar. Mike with SSD was amazing to work with, definitely recommend.

And nothing beats the confidence of having that sheet of metal under your most important investment.

ImageUploadedByAG Free1431171215.625611.jpg


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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This might be dumb, but what website did you guys buy from? I found two.

Writerguy.com & get-primitive.com (which im guessing is the right one)
Yes Sir
 

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So, really late the the party here, but I installed the Primitive set today without any issues. I found that the plastic shroud could be retained by using a Dremel and cutoff wheel to slowly pare down the 'cone' on the inner surface of the shroud until it slipped easily around the standoff on the skid plate. Ended up with about a 1/4" of the plastic cone left but every thing slipped back into place easily. If I wanted to remove the plate for a dealer oil change it will only involve removing skid plate and I should be able to reattach the front of the shroud with a set of fender washers and some nuts. Like it was never there.
 
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I've been wanting to put this on my XV and am looking to do so soon.

Before I do, I'd appreciate some thoughts on the following.

I drive into the mountains daily, there is often snow, always grit/gravel, and when I leave my XV parked and it snows, it will often freeze to ice.

So my question...

With the skid plates, am I likely to have gravel caught up on the plate between it and the undercarriage. What about snow? Is there the possibility of packed snow/ice in the same place.

And if so, could that create problems?
 

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F1209,
The fitment of the front skid plate sets it close the the rear end of the bumper as it wraps under the vehicle and the upturned end of the plate has the front edge higher than the bottom of the bumper. So, could snow get up in there, yeah, probably but I think it would be most likely if you were backing up through a drift rather than moving forwards. If you don't modify the plastic splash guard so it can be retained with the skid plate then there is a greater opportunity for snow to enter the engine compartment from the side but it hasn't seemed to be an issue from my reading through the forums here or elsewhere.

The mid armor plate (also with an upturned front edge) fits a couple of inches behind the rear of the forward skid plate, but if you're moving forwards then I would think that the snow would have been packed down and would not be an issue.

The rear diff plate would likewise probably be less effected by snow ingress for the same reason as the mid plate.

The plates have louvers which should allow for some drainage once the heat of the drivetrain melted any snow that might have gotten up in there.

So, could grit get inside the plate, yeah, probably. I doubt the big stuff would get inside the plates, and even if you wanted to remove the plates on occasion to clean them out, it should be a fairly quick process for the front two and only mildly more involved for the rear diff plate. In my mind, you probably wouldn't have to worry overly much about grit entrapment.
 

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So what I've been reading on this subject is that the plastic engine cover can be left in place as long as you drill out access points to mount the PR Skid plate? Am I correct? Those with the drain valve installed. Does it have to be in a certain orientation with regards to the skid plate? Please post a pic if you can of the plate and drain valve. I have the drain valve already & I plan on getting the skid plates at a later date. Thanks for the responses!
 

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So what I've been reading on this subject is that the plastic engine cover can be left in place as long as you drill out access points to mount the PR Skid plate? Am I correct? Those with the drain valve installed. Does it have to be in a certain orientation with regards to the skid plate? Please post a pic if you can of the plate and drain valve. I have the drain valve already & I plan on getting the skid plates at a later date. Thanks for the responses!
I have the front Primitive skid plate with an oil drain plug access machined, a nice way to view positioning and clearance in my build thread. For the drain valveI have the version with a short nipple to adapt a drain tube to the valve, but actually just today the tube popped off during drainage, and I found the machined access hole in the skid plate big enough to allow the arc of the stream of oil to clear anyways. Hope that helps.
 

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With the skid plates, am I likely to have gravel caught up on the plate between it and the undercarriage. What about snow? Is there the possibility of packed snow/ice in the same place.
F1209,
So, could snow get up in there, yeah, probably but I think it would be most likely if you were backing up through a drift rather than moving forwards. If you don't modify the plastic splash guard so it can be retained with the skid plate then there is a greater opportunity for snow to enter the engine compartment from the side but it hasn't seemed to be an issue from my reading through the forums here or elsewhere.
Dynablue is exactly right. Having the front skid plate installed with the factory mud tray in place (install notes from my build thread for future readers, though Dyanblue's way is even more clever and reversible), the coverage for the engine compartment is quite complete still. The front, mid, and rear plates all seem to be designed with the front sections angled so that obstacles, debris, and snow wont' get caught while moving forward. Here in Ottawa, Canada, at times we would have to drive through thick snow, and moving forward never caused any problems, or reversing in the urban settings for that matter.

However, backing up in very thick snow can be a bit different. I once had to back my way out of what must have been more than several feet of snow at that point (picture below), and when I got out there was snow packed above all three plates. it would appear when the car is driven in reverse the plates form a bit of a scoop. When I got back on the road the snow was burning off and streaming quite a bit, and I was quite worried about the thermal difference this was creating for the components. (Probably ok, but I tend to be overcautious of anything bad that can happen.) The rear differential plate was quite open on the sides to clear the snow out with a snow brush, the mid and front armor I had to drop to clear the snow out. Having the factory mud tray kept the snow entirely out of the engine bay though, thankfully.

Additional notes: Glad we had the Subaru's drive train to get us out that time.

 

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Not sure if this was a 2016 change or primitive didn't manufacture the plate I received properly, but nonetheless I ended up having to widen/slot the hole for the mid plate. The other 2 plate went on perfectly. For the front plate, I recommend just using a hole saw and drill two holes under the radiator mount section (some people have suggested a hot knife), but I think the hole saw is much cleaner. Just remember to not cut continuously as this will heat up the plastic and fuse it together. I'll post some pic later...
 
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