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Bypass is not at all important IMHO The oil filter's bypass will actuate just before the filter gets clogged (which is very unlikely to happen) .
What is the efficiency of the Mahle. I'm just kidding..its unknown. Most likely 95% at 40 microns where the Fram Ultra is 99% at 20 microns.
https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/30697/choose-oil-filter
The Mahle filters are at 32 microns, as far as I've been able to find out.

Granted that finer filtration is better. You keep tossing out that 20 micron number as if it's an unparalleled achievement by Fram, though, when Purolator and Wix both have filters at that performance level, and I'm sure there are others.

I do have to wonder where the tradeoff is. I would expect a finer filtration medium to clog faster. Of course that happens because the other filters are letting more stuff through, but if it clogs, the bypass is going to open up and let everything through. So I guess my question is, how long will it last? Do you need to change them more often?
 

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Granted that finer filtration is better. You keep tossing out that 20 micron number as if it's an unparalleled achievement by Fram, though, when Purolator and Wix both have filters at that performance level, and I'm sure there are others.

I do have to wonder where the tradeoff is. I would expect a finer filtration medium to clog faster. Of course that happens because the other filters are letting more stuff through, but if it clogs, the bypass is going to open up and let everything through. So I guess my question is, how long will it last? Do you need to change them more often?
Really didn't want to say more but there are no other filters that filter at 99% @20 microns. They will not plug bc they are fiberglass depth media.

https://www.fram.com/products/consumer-products/oil-filters/fram-ultra-synthetic-oil-filter/ The filter is good for 20,000 miles.
 

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This discussion reminded me of something I hadn't thought about in a long time.

Lo these many moons ago, when my hair was less white and more plentiful, there was an automotive catalog from the Warshawsky company of Chicago, AKA J.C. Whitney. They sold cheap auto parts. Some of them were legitimate replacement parts, like brake shoes and u-joints and so forth all the way up to complete crate engines; but they also had the most comprehensive collection of half-baked automotive gimmicks and gadgets you'd ever hope to see. It was endlessly entertaining to read pages and pages of breathless claims of better fuel mileage, longer engine and tire life, or what have you, just by installing some worthless doodad.

Anyway, they sold a bypass oil filter kit consisting of an adapter plate that you screwed onto your oil filter mount, with attached hoses leading to a big canister with a removeable lid held on by a big wingnut. The actual filtration material you'd use inside the canister was - and I am NOT making this up - a roll of toilet paper. No more buying expensive oil filters; just replace the roll with a new one every so often.

I shudder to think what that did to the engines of the cheapskate suckers who installed one.

Lest you think I hallucinated this whole thing, here it is:

A2UAQC.jpg

IzRLFt.jpg

$_57.jpg
 

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Really didn't want to say more but there are no other filters that filter at 99% @20 microns. They will not plug bc they are fiberglass depth media.

https://www.fram.com/products/consumer-products/oil-filters/fram-ultra-synthetic-oil-filter/ The filter is good for 20,000 miles.
It's plain impossible that they will never plug. All filters will eventually clog once they've caught enough gunk to coat them solidly. But if they last 20k miles without clogging up, that's long enough.
 

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This discussion reminded me of something I hadn't thought about in a long time.

Lo these many moons ago, when my hair was less white and more plentiful, there was an automotive catalog from the Warshawsky company of Chicago, AKA J.C. Whitney. They sold cheap auto parts. Some of them were legitimate replacement parts, like brake shoes and u-joints and so forth all the way up to complete crate engines; but they also had the most comprehensive collection of half-baked automotive gimmicks and gadgets you'd ever hope to see. It was endlessly entertaining to read pages and pages of breathless claims of better fuel mileage, longer engine and tire life, or what have you, just by installing some worthless doodad.

Anyway, they sold a bypass oil filter kit consisting of an adapter plate that you screwed onto your oil filter mount, with attached hoses leading to a big canister with a removeable lid held on by a big wingnut. The actual filtration material you'd use inside the canister was - and I am NOT making this up - a roll of toilet paper. No more buying expensive oil filters; just replace the roll with a new one every so often.

I shudder to think what that did to the engines of the cheapskate suckers who installed one.

Lest you think I hallucinated this whole thing, here it is:

View attachment 289408

View attachment 289410

View attachment 289412
I don't know... it seems to be the precursor to the cartridge type oil filters except the cartridge is a roll of TP! Hopefully, they use some of the more industrial stuff so that it will hold up better under pressure!
 

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Really didn't want to say more but there are no other filters that filter at 99% @20 microns.
Wow man, there's absolutely no other filters in the whole wide world that can compete with a FRAM?!? That's AMAZING..... LY wrong.

Do you work for Fram? It's ok if you do, everyone needs to work and to support their products.

PurolatorOne filters are 99% @ 20 microns, so that instantly invalidates everything you have to say.

Here's a couple others, this info is more than a few years old but I wasn't going to research it all out when someone did the work already.

Bosch Premium - 98% @ 15 micron first pass
Mobil 1 - 98% @ 10 micron first pass
Super Tech - 98% @ 20 micron first pass (even worse brand than your Fram, but it's right up there in the ratings)
K&N - 90% @ 10 microns multi-pass

And the cream of the crop, Donaldson filters, as low as 8 microns.

Anyways, enjoy your Fram filters, I'm glad you like them.. but please stop saying that they are the only filter that does this or that. You are providing inaccurate information. It's fine that you are a Fram fanboy but at least you need to provide the truth if you are trying to argue something.
 

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If it's not O I L it's oil filters. Great stuff. I'm going to try to see if I can get us going in a different direction: TRICO FOREVER!
 

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This discussion reminded me of something I hadn't thought about in a long time.

Lo these many moons ago, when my hair was less white and more plentiful, there was an automotive catalog from the Warshawsky company of Chicago, AKA J.C. Whitney. They sold cheap auto parts. Some of them were legitimate replacement parts, like brake shoes and u-joints and so forth all the way up to complete crate engines; but they also had the most comprehensive collection of half-baked automotive gimmicks and gadgets you'd ever hope to see. It was endlessly entertaining to read pages and pages of breathless claims of better fuel mileage, longer engine and tire life, or what have you, just by installing some worthless doodad.

Anyway, they sold a bypass oil filter kit consisting of an adapter plate that you screwed onto your oil filter mount, with attached hoses leading to a big canister with a removeable lid held on by a big wingnut. The actual filtration material you'd use inside the canister was - and I am NOT making this up - a roll of toilet paper. No more buying expensive oil filters; just replace the roll with a new one every so often.

I shudder to think what that did to the engines of the cheapskate suckers who installed one.

Lest you think I hallucinated this whole thing, here it is:

View attachment 289408

View attachment 289410

View attachment 289412
It's still a thing.


Back in the days before children, we used to own a Diesel Trawler, and Gulf Coast filters were often used for fuel polishing with rolls of paper towels as a filter medium. If you google up Gulf Coast and paper towel you can find discussions like this:
Re: Gulf Coast Filter - Paper towel elements? [Re: LITOA] #309376108/12/13 05:40 PM

"AlaskaMike Offline

Joined: May 2010
Posts: 296
Alaska
Originally Posted By: LITOA

From what you are saying, it sounds like you are using paper towels straight from Cosco, into the housing. No fabric sock, no plastic ends, no removal of the center cardboard core, correct? It is my understanding that the most important thing is to get the most densely wound roll you can find with the diameter of the roll being as large as possible and still fit in the housing.


Yep, that's correct--the denser the roll the better. I do leave the roll as-is and reuse the plastic ends, but I don't use the plastic sock. I thought about ordering some of the GCF elements just to get some spare plastic ends, but I haven't bothered.

Quote:

I presume you are having no issues with the paper degrading to the point where it is flowing into the engine?

Thank you very much!


My pleasure, and no issues with paper floating around in the oil at all. If that were happening it would certainly be reflected in my analysis reports. Also, when I change out the paper towel roll, it comes out looking the same as it went in (except it's now all black and oily grin ). If it were disintegrating in the oil flow I expect it would look eroded or chunks would be missing--I definitely don't see either of that happening.

Mike"
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3092389/2
 

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Back in the day, I almost bought a Frantz filter for my car. IIRC Amsoil or their dealers were hawking them as something akin to the Holy Grail for filtering oil. They used TP rolls, and some brands did not hold up to the intended purpose, let alone filtering oil under pressure. :happy:

artosa
 

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Mahle and Mann filters are OEM for VW/Audi. I'm sure they will work with 0W-20 synthetic oil for 6,000 mile changes.
As for me, I use Wix 57055 oil filters.
On my previous 2009 Impreza, I used Wix and Mobil 1 0W-40 with 10,000 mile changes, for 100,000 miles with no problems.
Synthetic oils are far superior to the mineral oils. I don't think in 6,000 miles they'll sludge up.
 

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The black filters are a better-built filter - people who have cut those two filters in half have verified it as such. Having said that, we don't know if it actually needs to be that well built... the car may not utilize the higher built quality of the black filters. We have not had a report where the blue filters have failed in service which is a testament to the blue filters and the level of quality required.
This is the word. The black filters are made in Japan, but the blue (USA) filters work just fine. North America has a 6-month service interval and they are "good enough".

There has only been once instance where there was an issue. And (guess what?) the Subaru OEM filters are FRAM.

Edit: If you have an hour to kill, this video does a complete in-depth analysis and the OEM blue = FRAM Toughguard in every way.
 

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Are both the blue and black filters the same Subaru part number?
Blue filter: 15208AA15A
Black filter: 15208AA160 (Subaru branded) or N3R1-14-302 (Mazda branded)

As a result of this discussion, I just ordered six of the black ones from a Mazda dealer.

It's been a while since I did my own oil changes, because cars have been getting lower and lower in the nose area, and I finally wound up owning cars I couldn't drive onto my ramps. Plus which there was kind of a price war going on between the shops in my area, and an oil change could be had for $20. But now with full synthetic oil that price isn't available anymore, and with a Crosstrek and a Forester we won't have any trouble getting the cars up onto the ramps. So I bought new supplies and I'll be taking the job over myself.
 

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I find it puzzling why Japanese made Subarus come equipped with the cheap and inferior Fram filter for North American market which is the largest market globally, whereas we get the black (Tokyo Roki) ones even though our market is the smallest!
 

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I find it puzzling why Japanese made Subarus come equipped with the cheap and inferior Fram filter for North American market which is the largest market globally, whereas we get the black (Tokyo Roki) ones even though our market is the smallest!
If the car was built in Japan, then they do typically come equiped with them... the black ones just aren't available for sale in North America from Subaru so anything that is built in North America or serviced gets a blue filter. It probably has to do with the fact that Subaru builds cars in North America and swapping out the Japanese sourced oil filter with a North American one means that there is more North American content in the car.
 

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The filter made by Fram and Roki "should" be built to the exact specs that Subaru supplies. Just like there have be car companies that have contracted to build a competitor's vehicle. Can anyone here definitely say that the two filters are different. Just asking. Not implying anything anything.

I personally would not have any problem buying either one.
 
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