As I understand it. The Subaru is direct injection and not throttle body. Dang, I stand corrected. It does have direct port injectors AND a throttle body. I was thinking diesel, Which has no throttle butterfly.Any possibility there might be an issue with throttle body sticking or malfunctioning?
Plus that report of this have been popping up occasionally since before the gen, with GDI.As I understand it. The Subaru is direct injection and not throttle body.
Just to clarify. I was wrong. It does have a throttle body and port injection.Plus that report of this have been popping up occasionally since before the gen, with GDI.
If you qualify for your state's lemon laws it's certainly worth looking into, if nothing else to put some pressure on SOA. If you trade it in now you'll take a big hit on the depreciation.
Sorry to hear you're having this issue as well. Thank you for opening a problem ticket with SoA.Hey guys, new here. Same issue. High heat especially, which makes me think its an electrical component more readily affected by ambient air temps. Coudl be throwing of resistance.
My thinking is MAF, knock sensors, possibly tps, and coil packs.
The timing retarding sounds like knock sensors to me.
At any rate, i disconnected the battery, let sit, and reconnected. Turned key to on, waited one minute, then turned it on and let it idle for 10 minutes.
This seems to be a temporary fix.
I think the previous user may be right about the knock sensor and the car learning incorrectly..
I also made a ticket with regars to the issue, and cited this thread and the ideas herein.
I have had this issue on a tank that was just filled, On a tank that was at 1/4. In cool 60 degree rainy weather with the A/C off, At 90+ degree weather.I'm sad to see this isn't fully resolved. I have a 2019 Premium 6MT and about a month ago at about 11k miles I started experiencing this. I had been driving around fine all day then all of a sudden while getting on the highway I lost power (hesitation, slow acceleration) below 3k rpm. It was bad enough that if it took a turn and downshifted into second if I was below 3k revs I would nearly stall. No dash lights came on or have ever come on.
I brought it to the dealer to explain what was happening and they did the ECM update per the recall, and said my mechanic had put too much oil in and that's why it was losing power. The mechanic checked and said it may be 1/2 liter too much and fixed it. It didn't solve the problem, so I brought it back to the dealer. They did a "thorough check" (5 second peek under the hood and 3 minute test drive) and said the master tech says it's running like a normal Crosstrek. There was no error reported so no error occurred (!). When I said there is no way it was always like this he said, "what do you expect from a Crosstrek when the AC is on?" So I left there and won't be returning, but the problem did slowly fade the more miles I put on the car to the point where after a couple of weeks I felt it was back to normal, so I thought maybe the oil had something to do with it.
Flash forward to today. I was driving around and everything was fine. I stopped to get gas and filled the gas tank (first time I completely filled it since the original problem). Got in to drive away and within a quarter of a mile the power loss is back just as bad as it was originally. I did notice while filling the tank that the first few gallons were a pain because the pump kept stopping even though I was pretty much on E. I called my mechanic and he suggested as a shot in the dark trying to drive with the gas cap off to rule out a stuck gas tank vent. It maybe helped a little but not much.
Wanted to add this because I can directly connect the loss of power with a gas fill-up (this time). Planning on going back to the dealer (a different one) and explaining this, and I'll also mention this thread and the knock sensor. Hopefully they can figure this out because otherwise I love this car!
I'll mention the VDC when the car goes to the shop on Tuesday. This time, SoA will be directly communicating with my dealer.Hey guys this is CrawwsTrok from above (i cant sign into my other account).
I may have found a solution.
Upon looking at the Vehicle Dynamics Control or VDC:
"If this doesn’t produce the desired results, VDC will then take corrective action by adjusting torque-split front to rear (CVT models only), applying the brakes to individual wheels, altering engine timing and reducing fuel flow to the engine .This combination of Subaru symmetrical full-time AWD and VDC produces superior levels of active safety with even more unique added benefits."
This could very well be the problem, and would explain the timing retard that the previous user logged. A failing or faulty ecu programming for the VDC or perhaps the VDC itself.
Ive been driving with VDC turned OFF and have yet to run into the issue. Key word YET.
At any rate, i urge you guys to try turning it off, especially when it is occurring, to see if this amends the issue.
If so, Subaru needs to do a tsb/recall for a faulty VDC programme.
I would imagine that a lost signal from an antilock wheel sensor would very quickly throw a fault code. However, If another sensor such as the knock-sensor or the VDC sensor pack is telling the ECU that the engine is knocking or the car is in a vehicle dynamic situation (Slipping or sliding) That will not be a fault.So maybe faulty wheel speed sensors?
The tone rings attached to the wheel hubs are very problematic (rusting and falling apart) in some GM vehicles, does Subaru use a similar arrangement?