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Discussion Starter #1
Hey folks,

I’m really excited to join this community! 2 months ago I bought an Orange 2013 Crosstrek XV Sport with 85,000KM from a family friend. The previous owner, didn’t really take too much care of the car apart from the regular oil maintenance. So I am slowly bringing the car back to life over these next few months.

I already replaced the front right CV Axle and a rear wheel bearing and made worked on restoring the body paint.

Over the past few days, I noticed that car gets quite rough when idling first thing in the morning, after about 10-15 mins of driving it goes away and the car runs smoothly. Reading from other posts this is due to the PZEV tech. However, this coming Tuesday I am planning on cleaning the Throttle Body as I’m sure it was never cleaned. I will also clean up the battery connectors and plan to reset the ECM to relearn the idle.

I have 2 questions:
1) in the idle relearn instructions, it says that I will need to leave the car idling for 10 mins. Will it be okay if the car is cold when doing this procedure? As when the car is cold, it idles higher than normal. Could it mess up with the calibration of the idling?

2) I brought my car to the dealership 2 weeks ago to get the Extended Cranking Reprogramming fix done. Will disconnecting and resetting the ECM, get rid of this update?

Thank you all in advance! PS: cars are not my forte so if I said anything stupid, please call me out!
 

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Throttle Body Alignment:

After reconnecting the battery, turn key to light up the dash. Don't crank the engine. Don't touch the peddles. After a minute turn the key off.
 

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Don't forget to clean the MAF while you are cleaning things out. When cleaning both the MAF and the throttle body, it won't hurt to disconnect the battery during the process as it will reset previous learned settings and start from a fresh start.
 

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Don't forget to clean the MAF while you are cleaning things out. When cleaning both the MAF and the throttle body, it won't hurt to disconnect the battery during the process as it will reset previous learned settings and start from a fresh start.
You read my mind, as I was just thinking of doing that as well! Thanks
 

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One more thing - if you are disconnecting the battery, take that opportunity to do some additional battery maintenance besides cleaning the terminals (which is always good) -

* apply some dielectric grease to the terminals after cleaning,
* remove the battery and give it a good wipe down as well as a coat of wax on the top (helps prevent water from collecting and attracting dust).
* Verify that the battery's heat shield (that plastic sleeve that goes over the battery) is in good condition.
* If it's the OEM battery, check the fluid levels while you have the battery out since the case is translucent. It's much easier than checking with the battery installed! And top off if needed.
* Give the battery a good charge and then have it tested to see if it's holding charge.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the help folks! I've successfully cleaned up the throttle body, cleaned the battery (and double checked @rlouie's tips) and reset the ECU module. I decided not to do the Mass AirFlow Sensor cleanup because we just had a lot of rain here in Vancouver, I don't have a garage and from what I've heard the sensor is quite sensitive. So I'll wait to do that until it's a little dyer and when I replace the serpentine belt or pulleys (I have the squeaky sound when I turn on the car).

On a completely different note, how long after the "Cold Engine" blue light goes off do your vehicles run a little rough? I'm a bit concerned about the knocking (sewing machine sound) when the car is running idle (~800-1000rpm). The sound goes away after 8-10 minutes. I've read that it's just a Subaru boxer engine thing/PZEV thing but I'm not too sure. I'll try to upload a video with the sound tomorrow morning.
 

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Thanks for the help folks! I've successfully cleaned up the throttle body, cleaned the battery (and double checked @rlouie's tips) and reset the ECU module. I decided not to do the Mass AirFlow Sensor cleanup because we just had a lot of rain here in Vancouver, I don't have a garage and from what I've heard the sensor is quite sensitive. So I'll wait to do that until it's a little dyer and when I replace the serpentine belt or pulleys (I have the squeaky sound when I turn on the car).

On a completely different note, how long after the "Cold Engine" blue light goes off do your vehicles run a little rough? I'm a bit concerned about the knocking (sewing machine sound) when the car is running idle (~800-1000rpm). The sound goes away after 8-10 minutes. I've read that it's just a Subaru boxer engine thing/PZEV thing but I'm not too sure. I'll try to upload a video with the sound tomorrow morning.
You're out in Vancouver as well, eh? (for those Americans out there, 'eh?' is a standard greeting used between Canadians - it can be used as part of a question or even a statement)

You don't have to worry about humidity really when cleaning the MAF if you take your sweet time about it. You just want to ensure that the solvent has all flashed off BEFORE reinstallation as most people will start up the car to test causing air to move past the MAF. On the off chance (which IMHO is very rare), some dust in that airflow contacts a wet spot on the MAF causing it to stick to the MAF causing issues with the sensor. If you ever saw how fast the MAF cleaner flashes off (even in cool moist weather), you'll know that a minute after applying it, the MAF should be dry. And if it isn't, just wave it around a bit. What you don't want to do is spray the MAF right next to the engine and quickly reinstall it into an enclosed space (like the airbox).

As for the Cold Engine blue light, it depends on the conditions - ie the ambient temperature of the air and how quickly you start driving after you start the car... What your habits when starting - ie do you idle until the engine is warm or do you start, wait a few seconds and go?
 

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@rlouie Hey Richard - sorry for reviving an old thread, we just got back from Holidays.

I ended up cleaning the MAF as well as the Throttle Body, the car is still running so I must have done everything right!

As for the blue light -- I noticed that the blue light goes away after 8-10 mins in our current Vancouver weather BUT the car runs a little loud for another 5ish mins afterwards. The "sewing machine" sound only occurs when I am stopped (ie: at traffic lights or stop sign) and goes away after 15 mins or so after starting up the vehicle. Afterwards, the car runs perfectly. I'm assuming that's fine and it's just the PZEV? What are you thoughts?

On a completely unrelated note, do you have any recommendations for where to service our Subarus? I think you're mostly a DYI person but is there a shop or dealership you can vouch for? I have a CVT Fluid change coming up soon and I can't say I'm too comfortable dealing with all of the temperature and flushing on my own (I plan to change the spark plugs and the accessory belt on my own though!).

Cheers!
 

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@rlouie Hey Richard - sorry for reviving an old thread, we just got back from Holidays.

I ended up cleaning the MAF as well as the Throttle Body, the car is still running so I must have done everything right!

As for the blue light -- I noticed that the blue light goes away after 8-10 mins in our current Vancouver weather BUT the car runs a little loud for another 5ish mins afterwards. The "sewing machine" sound only occurs when I am stopped (ie: at traffic lights or stop sign) and goes away after 15 mins or so after starting up the vehicle. Afterwards, the car runs perfectly. I'm assuming that's fine and it's just the PZEV? What are you thoughts?

On a completely unrelated note, do you have any recommendations for where to service our Subarus? I think you're mostly a DYI person but is there a shop or dealership you can vouch for? I have a CVT Fluid change coming up soon and I can't say I'm too comfortable dealing with all of the temperature and flushing on my own (I plan to change the spark plugs and the accessory belt on my own though!).

Cheers!
Try to upload a recording of the sound in question. It's been my experience that one man's sewing machine noise is another's 'what I don't hear anything' noise. On another thread about oil, others have stated that a heavier weight oil will make the engine quieter so that might be a good next step. There is also a possibility that something in the engine is 'sticking' a bit until the oil gets warm enough to free up the part's motion.
 

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Hey folks,

I’m really excited to join this community! 2 months ago I bought an Orange 2013 Crosstrek XV Sport with 85,000KM from a family friend. The previous owner, didn’t really take too much care of the car apart from the regular oil maintenance. So I am slowly bringing the car back to life over these next few months.

I already replaced the front right CV Axle and a rear wheel bearing and made worked on restoring the body paint.

Over the past few days, I noticed that car gets quite rough when idling first thing in the morning, after about 10-15 mins of driving it goes away and the car runs smoothly. Reading from other posts this is due to the PZEV tech. However, this coming Tuesday I am planning on cleaning the Throttle Body as I’m sure it was never cleaned. I will also clean up the battery connectors and plan to reset the ECM to relearn the idle.

I have 2 questions:
1) in the idle relearn instructions, it says that I will need to leave the car idling for 10 mins. Will it be okay if the car is cold when doing this procedure? As when the car is cold, it idles higher than normal. Could it mess up with the calibration of the idling?

2) I brought my car to the dealership 2 weeks ago to get the Extended Cranking Reprogramming fix done. Will disconnecting and resetting the ECM, get rid of this update?

Thank you all in advance! PS: cars are not my forte so if I said anything stupid, please call me out!
Hey folks,

I’m really excited to join this community! 2 months ago I bought an Orange 2013 Crosstrek XV Sport with 85,000KM from a family friend. The previous owner, didn’t really take too much care of the car apart from the regular oil maintenance. So I am slowly bringing the car back to life over these next few months.

I already replaced the front right CV Axle and a rear wheel bearing and made worked on restoring the body paint.

Over the past few days, I noticed that car gets quite rough when idling first thing in the morning, after about 10-15 mins of driving it goes away and the car runs smoothly. Reading from other posts this is due to the PZEV tech. However, this coming Tuesday I am planning on cleaning the Throttle Body as I’m sure it was never cleaned. I will also clean up the battery connectors and plan to reset the ECM to relearn the idle.

I have 2 questions:
1) in the idle relearn instructions, it says that I will need to leave the car idling for 10 mins. Will it be okay if the car is cold when doing this procedure? As when the car is cold, it idles higher than normal. Could it mess up with the calibration of the idling?

2) I brought my car to the dealership 2 weeks ago to get the Extended Cranking Reprogramming fix done. Will disconnecting and resetting the ECM, get rid of this update?

Thank you all in advance! PS: cars are not my forte so if I said anything stupid, please call me out!

For my part, my idle speed was too low, my engine stopped often, 500 rpm instead of 750 rpm. I looked on the net for a procedure. But I have tried several without good results. but I try one of my own, which works, here it is.

My slow motion relearning procedure. (relearn idle) XV Crosstrek 2013
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1) Turn off the lights, air conditioning, stereo or any other system in the car that draws power.
2) Disconnect the battery.
3) Press the brake pedal and put the key on (ing) to drain the current that may remain (20 sec).
4) Remove the key.
5) Reconnect the battery.
6) Turn the key to (ING) wait (15 to 20 sec). Before starting the engine. So that the electronic throttle body or the IACV has time to return to the original position programmed in the factory.
7) After waiting, start the car and let it idle for (10 min) without any load, lights, A / C, etc.
8) Stop the engine and leave the key in the OFF position for at least (20 sec).
9) Remove the key.
10) Repeat as in step (4), return the key to (ING) for (15 to 20 sec) without actually starting the engine.
11) Start the engine and let it idle for another (5 min) without touching the accelerator and without switching on the other systems in the car.
12) Stop the engine again and wait at least (20 sec).
13) Remove the key.
14) Take the car for a test drive as the ECU should now be completely recycled.
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