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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just a walk through (with lots of pictures) on how I set up my lights.

First I bought the ADF light mounts (LP and other companies many them as well) in their raw form.

How they arrived to me


I used the same spray can bed liner that I used on my front bumper guard to cost the brackets
(liner I used: https://amzn.to/2P8BwDD )


Then hopped over to Amazon to find a decent pair of lights to test. Now these are not the end-all-be-all... but for the money ($13 when I bought them..) they had great reviews and was worth a shot! You can always upgrade later too.
Here are the exact ones I bought: https://amzn.to/2vPKIod

As far as installing the brackets.. it was super simple (and I did it "the hard way" lol). Most people will simply unbolt the nuts holding the hood to the hinge, throw the brackets in, and reinstall the nuts. I decided to sandwich the brackets between the hood and hinges. Either way will work just fine.

I left the nuts a bit loose for both brackets so I could play with the positioning of them. I wanted them to sit where the light will not touch the hood OR the windshield when the hood is propped ALL THE WAY open (the second - furthest down - notch for the hood prop).
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Next it was time for the always fun wiring.

I made my own harness using waterproof connectors from the lights to the harness. So if I ever need to remove/replace the lights, I dont have to take all the wiring with it.
(waterproof connectors Ive been using: https://amzn.to/2BfhXq9 )

Power and ground from the light come into the connector. Ground gets tied into the strut mount on both sides. The harness (from left to right) goes from the passenger side of the car along the firewall to the drivers side. Both sides are soldered together and the power line goes into my switch system.

Connections were all soldered and shrink tube covering them all as well.





A shot from the passenger side.


What turned out to be awesome about the connectors I used and linked above, they fit PERFECTLY "inside" the hinges! The hinges get narrower as they go down to the firewall. So I was able to simply place the connectors in the channel of the hinges and slide them down. They are staying in place simply by friction. Easy to remove but strong enough to stay in place.
As an extra level of security if you wanted, you could also use a ziptie around the hinge or a piece of double sided tape to hold it in place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The lights I bought had a lot of adjust-ability. I flipped them on to get a general idea on how I wanted them pointed, then tightened up all the nuts. I also made sure that they clear the windshield when the hood if fully propped open.




Hood closed


Quick test in the garage. Garage door shut and all lights inside and on the car were off vs just the ditch lights on.



I will need to test them out and about without any light pollution when its dark. From there I will see if I need to adjust the positioning or not.

Whole process took me between 3-4 hours. That also includes putting around the garage putting random stuff away, dealing with the dogs, and generally just working slow lol.
 

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How about a shot directly in front of the car outside so we can see how they look from the front? Daytime with lights off....just to get a feel for how they look. :)
 

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Very nice write-up Thomas. Clean install and step-by-step instructions. Providing links to parts is a nice plus as well.

This is why it would be nice to have stickies. Put this sticky under Electrical - Exterior lighting !

Is your light bar missing ? I would love to have seen the write-up for that. It is on my to do list.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Very nice write-up Thomas. Clean install and step-by-step instructions. Providing links to parts is a nice plus as well.

This is why it would be nice to have stickies. Put this sticky under Electrical - Exterior lighting !

Is your light bar missing ? I would love to have seen the write-up for that. It is on my to do list.
Thank you :)

Yea figured I would start adding links to parts and such. I even went back to some of the older threads ive done to add links as well.

I didnt write one up for the front light bar. I did snap a couple pics when I did it and posted them in my journal... I wouldnt want to write one now as it would be "remove front bumper. Take this off. Take that off.." lol.

Id rather make something like "there are X amount of pop clips under and X amount on top followed by X amount of nuts/bolts in these spots".
 

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Very nice! I love how it looks....guess I can add that to my list! And yes, thanks for linking the parts you used, that really helps.
Keep up the good work!
 

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Very nicely done, including the photos and writeup! :)

I'm simply curious why you decided on that location at the base of the windshield as opposed to up top on the roof?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Very nicely done, including the photos and writeup! :)

I'm simply curious why you decided on that location at the base of the windshield as opposed to up top on the roof?
Thanks :)

The brackets are made specifically for hood mount.

I do have a basket for the roof and it already has a 32" LED light bar on it along with 3 lights in the back. I dont have the basket on a daily basis because it kills MPGs.
 

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Were your two brackets symmetrical? Mine are different in the bends where the light mounts.

Just a walk through (with lots of pictures) on how I set up my lights.

First I bought the ADF light mounts (LP and other companies many them as well) in their raw form.

How they arrived to me


I used the same spray can bed liner that I used on my front bumper guard to cost the brackets
(liner I used: https://amzn.to/2P8BwDD )


Then hopped over to Amazon to find a decent pair of lights to test. Now these are not the end-all-be-all... but for the money ($13 when I bought them..) they had great reviews and was worth a shot! You can always upgrade later too.
Here are the exact ones I bought: https://amzn.to/2vPKIod

As far as installing the brackets.. it was super simple (and I did it "the hard way" lol). Most people will simply unbolt the nuts holding the hood to the hinge, throw the brackets in, and reinstall the nuts. I decided to sandwich the brackets between the hood and hinges. Either way will work just fine.

I left the nuts a bit loose for both brackets so I could play with the positioning of them. I wanted them to sit where the light will not touch the hood OR the windshield when the hood is propped ALL THE WAY open (the second - furthest down - notch for the hood prop).
 

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Do you have some sort of connector or quick disconnect for the wiring on your basket mounted light bar? I would love to hear more, especially with how well written the write up for this thread was! Bravo!

I do have a basket for the roof and it already has a 32" LED light bar on it along with 3 lights in the back. I dont have the basket on a daily basis because it kills MPGs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Do you have some sort of connector or quick disconnect for the wiring on your basket mounted light bar? I would love to hear more, especially with how well written the write up for this thread was! Bravo!
Thank you :)

I used the same connectors that I linked in the 2nd post of this thread.

I didnt make a write up for the install of the Crosstrek, but I did make one when I initially installed it on my wife's Sorento. Basically I did almost the same exact thing for the Crosstrek. I set the basket up like I did knowing I was going to buy a Crosstrek later that same year.

Here is how I did that:

https://www.kia-forums.com/2016-sorento/269337-led-light-bar-cargo-basket.html
 
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