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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Forum members with the High Grade MFD

High Grade MFD Limited Crosstreks

1. mcgheeda '14
2. YYZ-XV '15
3. AstroPoverty '16
4. yufasa '16
5. fhartell '16
6. RallyeBourne '14
7. afbeefcake '15 (w/Eyesight)
8. FFMDC '17 (w/Eyesight)
9. Zor '15
10. phaeacian '14 (60% done w/mod)
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High Grade MFD Base/Premium Crosstreks

1. privatepublic99 '15
2. long_road '13
3. drkicker '16
4. Sticks01 '17
5. njdrsubaru '13
6. TheGrandJury '13
7. vionjati 15' (w/Eyesight)
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High Grade MFD Premium Imprezas

1. Antonnio '16 (Country - Panama)
2. constablechatsworth '16 Impreza Sport Premium


High Grade MFD upgrade ('15 XV Limited)
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** No climate control display on Premium models **

Disclaimer: As with any modifications or upgrades to your XV you do them at your own risk of damage or injury.
* Remember to always disconnect your battery before installation.


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Post Contents:
Post 1: The Upgrade
Post 2: Parts / Tools
Post 3: Panel, switches and illumination harness
Post 4: Wiring, terminals & connections
Post 5: Conclusion
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The Upgrade

We always want things we don’t have. WRX’s and Foresters have high grade MFD’s but for some reason (cost?) Subaru didn’t include it for some of us XV owners. This just makes us want it even more. The high grade MFD should have been standard across all models.

I want to thank forum member mcgheeda the first to accomplish this upgrade. Without his success I may never have given it a shot. I installed mine with the center panel MFD switch since I have a steering wheel switch for the combination meter and mcgheeda installed a steering wheel switch to control the MFD on his '14 XV. Here is a link to his thread: http://www.subaruxvforum.com/forum/interior-audio/86009-part-number-high-grade-mfd-upgrade.html. This modification might be easier for some and difficult for others. You have to decide for yourself if this is something you can do. Electrical wiring & splicing involved.It's not a plug & play mod. I hope my guide here will help give you some insight in what is involved.

The display looks great and the MFD from '15, '16 WRX’s works well in the XV. I would probably guess a newer Forester MFD would also work with some minor differences. The Forester display adds oil & windshield wiper fluid check, an eco gauge along with eco history. Edit: Forester MFDs work and if you have Eyesight these are the displays you want. The turbo gauge on these MFD’s makes for another want but can’t have for our XV’s – turbos! It looks cools and does provide us with negative psi readings for vacuum system pressure. One thing noticed after the install is that the original select switch on the instrument cluster for the original info display no longer works. Not a big deal since the new switch takes its place. The trip meter switch works on the new MFD so no problems there.

HMboost.jpg HMclock.jpg HMtriplegauge.jpg mfdxv.jpg mfdxv1.jpg

Car settings available:

Hazard warning flasher – setting to turn on/off hazard flash when locking or unlocking doors

Defogger - setting for 15 minutes on or continuous (rear defogger on for 15 minutes / then off for 2 minutes until turned off). Continuous is only available on models with automatic climate control.

Interior light delay timer setting – set to off/10s/20s/30s

Auto Light Sensor - set auto headlight sensor to Low/Mid/High/Max

Welcome Lighting – set leaving & approach to off/30s/60s/90s

The only car setting that is not useful to me is the keyless buzzer volume setting – my XV is old school with a key.

For those of us getting up there in age it has birthday and anniversary reminders. It also has maintenance reminder settings for oil, filter & tire rotation. It displays both analog & digital clocks.
It has a triple gauge with a selection to display oil temp and it also displays Eco history, mpg and fuel economy.


Edit: MFD settings for auto light sensor and welcome lighting on Limited XV's. Also Limiteds have a 7 speed climate control fan and Premiums have a 4 speed fan. Not sure if mfd fan display will display just 4 speeds ? Update: Premium models do not display a/c climate control info.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
-----------------------------------------------------
Post Contents:
Post 1: The Upgrade
Post 2: Parts / Tools
Post 3: Panel, switches and illumination harness
Post 4: Wiring, terminals & connections
Post 5: Conclusion
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OEM PARTS

This modification requires new or used OEM parts, connector terminals and wiring. The wiring and connector terminals will have to be found in a junkyard or online from a used instrument cluster harness. Below are the parts, tools and materials that I used for my mod.

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High Grade MFD
Part Number: 85261VA200
Price (ebay) used: $194.99 shipped
Note: MFD from a '16 WRX. Forum member mcgheeda used one from a '15 WRX (85261VA011).

2016MFDlabeled.jpg

Part Number: 85261SG410
Price (ebay) used: $70.00 shipped
Note: MFD from a '16 Forester. Installed Nov. 2016 Subaru Forester MFD research


Upper Center Vent Panel
Part Number: 66065FJ030
Price (new): $78.35 total w/shipping
Note: One expensive plastic bezel! If your lucky to find one used at a good price – buy it! This panel is like the one on a '15 XV Hybrid.

HMpanel.jpg

Interior Illumination Kit
Part Number: H701SFJ101
Price (ebay) new: $95.98 total w/shipping
Note: Spliced into this harness for the MFD switch background light. This harness is not required if you decide to splice into the hazard light wiring. Also used for my cubby light (pocket light) led.


Hazard Switch
Part Number: 83037VA000
Price (ebay) used: $19.99 shipped
Note: Accepts hazard light white connector i22 with no modification.


MFD Switch
Part Number: 83056VA000
Price (ebay) used: $29.98 shipped
Note: Grey connector i7 needed for install. mcgheeda installed his using a steering wheel switch assembly (83158SG000) and a new lower steering wheel cover (34317FJ030VH)

HMhazmfdlabeled.jpg

Harness / Wiring / terminals
Part Number: 81302VA080
Price (ebay) used: $99.99 shipped
Notes: The instrument cluster harness was from a '15 WRX STi and was the expensive way to go. It saved time and made it easier for me since I didn’t have to go junkyard hunting. CANBUS wiring/terminals, the MFD switch connector i7 and wiring/terminals and the pocket light connector were all acquired from this harness.

HMwiringlabled.jpg

Misc. tools and supplies

Subaru wiring diagrams, plastic interior trim removal tools, wire strippers, crimper, splices, protective wire wrap, zip ties, electrical tape, heat shrink, a 1.4 mm and 1.0 mm precision screwdriver or a Astro 78445 terminal tool kit.

Astro tool .jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
--------------------------------------------------------
Post Contents:
Post 1: The Upgrade
Post 2: Parts / Tools
Post 3: Panel, switches and illumination harness
Post 4: Wiring, terminals & connections
Post 5: Conclusion
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This is just a guide. I’m not providing a step-by-step installation but an overall general how to. You will have to remove the combination meter (instrument gauge) to access the joint connectors i232 and i233. The removal of the radio for the cubby light but it also gave me some room to tie back the illumination harness.

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Upper Center Vent Panel
I swapped the vent grill assemblies and silver vent rings from my panel to the new one. Not an easy task releasing the 4 plastic tabs at the same time.

Tip: I used a hair dryer to warm up the plastic and tooth picks to hold the tabs open. No panel tabs broken on removal or installation. ☺

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MFDwiringxv.jpg

CANBUS Wiring
The red and blue CANBUS wires run from the (joint connectors i232 and i233) to the MFD (connector i122) pin 5 (blue) wire and pin 6 (red) wire.

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HMharnesslabeled.jpg < Footwell harness and wiring ready to install

Hazard Switch
White footwell connector plugs right in ☺

Cubby Light (Pocket Light)
Spliced into footwell harness. Radio removed for led and footwell harness install.
Tip: protect your interior from scratches. Use tape and towels on plastic pieces when removing the radio.



MFD Switch wiring
The grey connector i7 from your junkyard harness plugs in here. I spliced into the interior illumination harness (footwell light harness) for the MFD switch light – illumination wires pin 1 (violet) and pin 4 (black/white). Pin 2 (green/blue) and Pin 3 (green/red) wires run to the MFD (connector i122) pin 12 (green/blue) and 4 (green/red). You could also splice into the hazard light wiring for the switch light.


HMi232i233.jpg < Joint connectors



HMi122.jpg < MFD connector


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1.4mmscrewdriver.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
-----------------------------------------------------
Post Contents:
Post 1: The Upgrade
Post 2: Parts / Tools
Post 3: Panel, switches and illumination harness
Post 4: Wiring, terminals & connections
Post 5: Conclusion
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This part of the mod is the tricky part but once you get a couple pins to unlock and out of the connectors your on your way to installing a high grade MFD!


DEPINNING Connectors - watch video

You’ll need some precision screwdrivers 1.4mm and 1.0mm. With these you should be able to depin the connectors. I bought the Astro 78445 terminal tool kit from Amazon.com and used the single face blade tool (1.0mm).

i122HM.jpg P3250112.jpg

Joint connectors i232 & I233
The 1.4 mm Screwdriver works on the joint connectors i232 and i233. Remove the black locking cover. Use the screwdriver to release the internal lock and at the same time pull the pin/wire out.

i232HM.jpg

MFD connector i122
The 1.4 mm screwdriver will not work in this connector. Open the connector wire lock covers and use a 1.0mm tool to release the internal lock and at the same time pull the pin/wire out.

Note: The 1.0mm tool from the Astro kit is very fragile. It bends easily.

Tip: Be patient, these terminals can be difficult at times but once you get the hang of it they come out easily. Practice on a pin/wire your not going to use.

i232i233.jpg

Wire Installation
Protect the wires with protective wire wrap (tubing), electrical tape and route to the connectors. With your wiring diagram and connector pin out view in hand, just slide the terminals in their correct positions. Make sure they lock in place. Secure the new wiring with zip ties.

P3250104.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
-----------------------------------------------------
Post Contents:
Post 1: The Upgrade
Post 2: Parts / Tools
Post 3: Panel, switches and illumination harness
Post 4: Wiring, terminals & connections
Post 5: Conclusion
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Well there you have it. I hope this helps with your install. It will take some time to install but I actually enjoyed the project and the results. It’s not a cheap mod but if you can find the parts used at a good price your cost should be much lower than mine. Was it worth it? Yes. It’s cool knowing my XV has a mod not many have and I have the ability to change some settings without having to go to the dealer. Plus I can always change back to a previous setting if I don’t like it. The display is also more pleasing to look at and makes the interior that much better. If you have any questions I’ll try to answer them. Good luck and happy modding!

By the way I would like to give credit to GeneralRap for the layout of my write-up. http://www.subaruxvforum.com/forum/subaru-xv-diy-how-tos-tsb/52546-guide-vdc-shut-off-switch-using-oem-buttons.html

radiocavity.jpg HMCL.jpg pocketlightcubby.jpg XVMFD1.jpg XVMFD2.jpg

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I LOVE it. But like you said at the very beginning, it ain't for some owners to do. I would love to do this but wouldn't have a clue where or how to start. Guess I'll just continue to look at what came with my 2015 XV SE YELLOW Subaru, YELLOW Subaru.
 

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Please note that a side benefit of the MFD (besides the cool looks) is that you should be able to attach a reverse camera to it for display. This is useful for those with an older XV that does not have the camera built-in and has the basic HeadUnit.
 

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Very nice; I love it! Thanks for the write up.

I was wondering why this thread looked a little familiar ;)

Honestly though, I've been wanting to do this ever since I saw that other thread; unfortunately, it's somewhat low on the totem pole of things I'd like to do to my XV. However, now that I know how to....
 

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Very impressed - great job! I agree that this display really makes the interior look that much nicer. If it weren't for this, I think I'd have different opinions on the XV. The old fashioned LCD display on the drivers dashboard is really disappointing. It seems like it cost you a bit over $500 and a price I'd agree is well worth it!


Please note that a side benefit of the MFD (besides the cool looks) is that you should be able to attach a reverse camera to it for display. This is useful for those with an older XV that does not have the camera built-in and has the basic HeadUnit.
I've found your thread on this, from your post a long while back. It sounds like quite an extensive upgrade that will take the better part of a day?
http://www.subaruxvforum.com/forum/lighting-electrical/767-backup-camera-multifunction-display-3.html#post17675
 

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Very impressed - great job! I agree that this display really makes the interior look that much nicer. If it weren't for this, I think I'd have different opinions on the XV. The old fashioned LCD display on the drivers dashboard is really disappointing. It seems like it cost you a bit over $500 and a price I'd agree is well worth it!



I've found your thread on this, from your post a long while back. It sounds like quite an extensive upgrade that will take the better part of a day?
http://www.subaruxvforum.com/forum/lighting-electrical/767-backup-camera-multifunction-display-3.html#post17675
Can be done in an afternoon or less... it really depends on how good you are with popping off the plastic trim. If you are going to do it, I would combine it with adding sound deadening to the hatch area as well since you are there. And if you are really good, adding in some extra lighting in the hatch as well as maybe a USB charging port or two back there. You have to pop off the same trim pieces in the hatch are so you should make the best of it.
 

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Wow, Awesome mod and even better write-up! Thank you!

I would love to have this MFD in my Crosstrek. Along with a more comfortable power driver's seat, it's on the top of my wishlist for interior upgrades. Besides the high(er) cost of parts, I'm not sure I would have the patients or skill to tackle a project like this. This upgrade is up there with a headlamp retrofit when it comes to daunting mods. Maybe someday...
 

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Can be done in an afternoon or less... it really depends on how good you are with popping off the plastic trim. If you are going to do it, I would combine it with adding sound deadening to the hatch area as well since you are there. And if you are really good, adding in some extra lighting in the hatch as well as maybe a USB charging port or two back there. You have to pop off the same trim pieces in the hatch are so you should make the best of it.
Thanks rlouie! I'm looking into the parts now and likely adding a backup camera to the list. I looked at the OEM camera to install and really can't justify the price, was over $200!

I've thought about that and have a list going of installs I'm going to be doing at the same time: audio, lighting, and some other electronics since I'll be taking apart the car and running wiring the entire lengths of the car. What advantage is a USB port in the boot? It's not a bad idea, but I can't imagine when I'd ever need one?

What sound deadening would you suggest around the hatch area?
 

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The nice thing is that there's a lot of room in the hatch area for sound deadening between the metal frame and the plastic trim so almost anything bulky will do. I used fabric insulation (like Thinsulate) available at any store that sells fabric as well as closed cell foam underlayment. I placed some squares of Dynamat like material on the plastic trim to deaden those bits.

You will find that if you line the spare tire wheel well with closed cell foam, the spare will press against the metal skin which will deaden most of the floor of the hatch which is probably one of the best quickest things you can do to lower the road noise.

As for the USB in the boot, it's purely for charging things so that they are not in open view - most tablets just don't fit anywhere where you can charge it safely unattended in the car. If it's in hatch, you can pull the cover over so that you can't see it. I'm also planning on adding a 12V accessory port back there as well.
 

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Thanks - will have to take a look back there.

As for charging things unseen, I've put a laptop/tablet under the drivers seat with the wire sneaking into the center console 12V plug and unless you look really carefully, you don't even notice the wire and the device under the seat is completely hidden. It's true that it's switched, so only charges when you're driving. For me, that's good enough, but now that you mention it.....:)
 

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I'm also going to be putting in a voltmeter... After all, it's good to have a charged laptop or a cold beer (using a 12V cooler) but I'll settle for a cool beer and being able to start my car. :)
 

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What are the data read outs this high grade MFD display? I have a 16 premium. Would you recommend adding steering wheel controls or going the MFD switch near the hazard button route?
 

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Joint connectors i232 & I233
The 1.4 mm Screwdriver works on the joint connectors i232 and i233. Remove the black locking cover. Use the screwdriver to release the internal lock and at the same time pull the pin/wire out.
This is an awesome writeup... tanks for taking the time to do it. I have actually ordered the stuff to do this. My confusion might disappear when I actually get into it... right now, I have been studying the diagrams and pics and have some confusion over JCs i232 and i233. From the wiring diagram it looks like it doesn't matter which pin we hook up to here. As such, I am curious why we need to depin anything here (is the old MFD wiring in these?). Can we not just add to the JC? Also, I would expect to see instrument cluster and A/C leads coming into these JCs, but the pictures you have don't show that (or I am just really confused)

Thanks for any clarifications.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
This is an awesome writeup... tanks for taking the time to do it. I have actually ordered the stuff to do this. My confusion might disappear when I actually get into it... right now, I have been studying the diagrams and pics and have some confusion over JCs i232 and i233. From the wiring diagram it looks like it doesn't matter which pin we hook up to here. As such, I am curious why we need to depin anything here (is the old MFD wiring in these?). Can we not just add to the JC? Also, I would expect to see instrument cluster and A/C leads coming into these JCs, but the pictures you have don't show that (or I am just really confused)

Thanks for any clarifications.
Your welcome. Looking back at my write-up I explained how to depin the JC's i232 and i232 because you need to depin these wires from your junkyard harness. Sorry for the confusion but the picture of the joint connector from the donor harness was already depinned of the other canbus wiring. This picture shows the wiring and pins ready to be inserted into the JC on my vehicle -

174993d1458907627t-high-grade-mfd-upgrade-15-xv-limited-hmi232i233.jpg

The canbus wires have an optional wire arrangement so you are right it doesn't matter which pin goes where in the connecter - Red i232 and the Blue i233. Insert your donor wires and put the black locking covers on the JC's. Now run your canbus wiring to the mfd connector i122 red pin 6 and blue pin 5. Hope this helps.

I see you have a 2016 Limited and I assume the wiring should be the same as 2015 Limited. Good luck with your install & post when you get it done.
 
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