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Converge, your comments indicate that putting a coaxial 3.5" in the dash with bass blocker caps, and sound deadening in the front doors behind stock 6x9s is maybe as far as one can get here with the original HU and HK amp?

I ask because I just went through all of this just now with a 2013 Outback with the same audio package. There I ended up putting the stock dash mid-tweets back in, but swapped all the doors for aftermarket.

I have the '18 Impreza HK, and wondering if I should just add an Alpine sw8 powered sub on the HK amp front door output at the kick/sill, sound dampen front doors a bit, and 'abandon ship'?

1. Do I have to loose the Subaru 6x9 and exagerated bass, or just cover it up by adding midbass punch with the Alpine?

2. Should I leave the "interesting" dash sound alone even though it distorts really early, or swap those with Polk db352 3.5 coaxials with bass blockers (starlink service long gone already)

3. Rear doors to Polk or Infinity coaxials, or leave that as well?

Thanks for any opinions,
SF
 

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It is hard to say, the deadening was definitely the best thing I did. I would start with that and see if it tightens up the bass to your liking.

I don't regret replacing the speakers, but it definitely was not a night and day difference. At least now I will never wonder "what if" and I am happy however many months later!

I think vulcans dsp was interesting but overall dealing with the hk head unit and amp made this all more of a pain than it was worth regarding speakers/bass blockers/etc.
 

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Amps piggy-backed and velcroed together, had to remove the factory amp bracket to achieve clearance under the seat. Still waiting on the damn speed wire

Harness in the middle with the wire lume is the seat harness, it normally clips the the top of amp bracket but I’m leaving it free for purposes of seat travel.


Seat in place, all the way back

Rear view, seat all the way forward


There’s no damn way HK is getting 432 Watts of power out of that little thing, fed with two 18AWG wires each for power and ground!! More marketing BS (8-speakers?)
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Any pics of the final install? Did you tap into the audio channels coming from the HU prior the amp? Or the speaker outputs coming from the amp?
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 · (Edited)
Any pics of the final install? Did you tap into the audio channels coming from the HU prior the amp? Or the speaker outputs coming from the amp?
You're looking at them! The only thing youre not seeing in the pics above are the speed wires i ran from HK amp outputs (front/rear L & R) to the aftermarket amp inputs, and then back out of the aftermarket amp speaker outputs to the factory speaker wires, in essence i wired the my aftermarket amp in between the HK speaker outputs and speakers. The dash speakers are still powered from the HK amp (thru the DCM) with bass blockers installed under the passenger side kick plates in order to avoid interference with the DCM /telematics.
 

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You're looking at them! The only thing youre not seeing in the pics above are the speed wires i ran from HK amp outputs (front/rear L & R) to the aftermarket amp inputs, and then back out of the aftermarket amp speaker outputs to the factory speaker wires, in essence i wired the my aftermarket amp in between the HK speaker outputs and speakers. The dash speakers are still powered from the HK amp (thru the DCM) with bass blockers installed under the passenger side kick plates in order to avoid interference with the DCM /telematics.
… hi there, it is my first post here. after searching google Gods on which path to take in upgrading my 2019 outback LTD HK / AMP system, i found this thread. thanks for this, you guys rock!
looks like the set up is the same as what you guys have here, i do have a question, my ob came with a sub (sort of 6x9 sub)… would you recommend doing the same set up HU > HK AMP > AMP for sub > sub (using same oem wires)?
thanks again.
 

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I have a weird problem I'm hoping someone can help with. I used posi-taps to tap into the Rear right speaker wires on the 30 pin HK amp harness. But I'm getting zero bass from the powered sub. (Rockford Fosgate P300-12). Afterwards I noticed that if i set the fade on the head unit to only the rear speakers, the rear speakers have ZERO bass. But the front speakers and dash speakers do have bass. Any idea why there's zero bass coming from the rears?
 

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Yes at least in the 2021 Limited model with Harmon Kardon audio. I had the dealer test another one, and they confirmed there's no bass coming from the rear speakers. I think the HK amp under the seat must be setup that way. If you add a sub, make sure you tap into the front speaker wires and not the rear.
Just noticed this in my 2021 Crosstrek limited with HK. All of the bass comes from the front door speakers which are woofers only. The rear door speakers only produce highs etc which I though was odd being they are are about 6.5”?! I guess it’s the way the HK mixes the sound? Again, just odd to have larger speakers that don’t produce bass, maybe it’s just bc they are using the same cutout as the non HK on the door etc?!
 

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Amps piggy-backed and velcroed together, had to remove the factory amp bracket to achieve clearance under the seat. Still waiting on the damn speed wire

Harness in the middle with the wire lume is the seat harness, it normally clips the the top of amp bracket but I’m leaving it free for purposes of seat travel.


Seat in place, all the way back

Rear view, seat all the way forward


There’s no damn way HK is getting 432 Watts of power out of that little thing, fed with two 18AWG wires each for power and ground!! More marketing BS (8-speakers?)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It’s actually not 432 watts in the real sense — they say in the press release that it’s an “equivalent”:
— Why “equivalent”? Harman Kardon’s GreenEdge™ digital technology provides the volume and quality of a traditional 432-watt amplifier while requiring far less energy to operate. —
Press release for the Impreza which uses the same setup: Modes of Operation - All-Around Sound
 

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Joined the forum just for this thread lol. Any chance someone made progress for this project? I bought my 2020 Forester in May of last year an I love most things about it but the HK system makes me regret not testing its stereo first. I’ve honestly quit listening to music while driving it’s such a disappointment. Let not let the project die! I think my mood depends on it😉
 

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I didn't read this thread as it is too technical for me. I believe the amp is rated at 432 watts with highly efficient , sensitivity, speakers. It comes with a digital sound processing amp which sends low frequencies to the large 6 X 9 front speakers.
To get a significant improvement in SQ, toss the DSP amp, and get all new speakers. Good luck.
 

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Joined the forum just for this thread lol. Any chance someone made progress for this project? I bought my 2020 Forester in May of last year an I love most things about it but the HK system makes me regret not testing its stereo first. I’ve honestly quit listening to music while driving it’s such a disappointment. Let not let the project die! I think my mood depends on it😉
I "solved" this for what I needed (extra DSP) (I have an Ascent, but this applies to any HK amp)

I got a harness from AutoHarnessHouse.com <[email protected]>. This is a 24 pin male to female bypass cable, so if plugged in, it does nothing, everything works as normal, but I now have access to all the HK input wires.

For now, I am just using L+ and R+ and SLD (see page 2 of thread for pinout), using those to go to RCA inputs on a miniDSP DDRC-24

ACC I use for power to the miniDC isolator, and I found a grounding point nearby.

Output of DDRC-24 creates a balanced output, so I have 4 outputs, I have two normal and two inverted, so L+, L-, R+ and R- can be created. (Channel 1 is L+, channel 2 is also L, but inverted to create L-, etc)

These go into amp, (SLD is ground to the RCA connectors).

Works so far. Main issue is that there is a noise floor with volume high (not unexpected) as I'm not using the full balanced input into the DDRC-24. I ordered an RDL TX-A2D that will help with that, as I'll get the full balanced signal into unbalanced.

DIRAC takes the system, and now there is a clear balance between left and right. Works a lot better now, and I could smooth out a few of the issues in the stock tune.
 
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