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Discussion Starter · #61 · (Edited)
Without bass blockers the Infinity 3.5”s distort as I push up the volume, too much mids getting thru. The best I can do is sum the front and rears with the LC4, keep the HP’s at 80-100hz and use the fader to ease the bass/mids up front then it sounds halfway decent but not optimum. We are definite losing sound with the the DSP.

Since this is primarily the wife’s DD, I can’t run straight line into the amp ( she likes her FM country stations , not tech savvy ) otherwise I’d be done already!

Wondering if I install the BB’s in the amp out wiring ahead of the DCM? It should still see the direct impedance of the speaker since they are two separate signals. Have to cut two more wires to try that
Either that or put the HK tweeters back in.

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Without bass blockers the Infinity 3.5”s distort as I push up the volume, too much mids getting thru. The best I can do is sum the front and rears with the LC4, keep the HP’s at 80-100hz and use the fader to ease the bass/mids up front then it sounds halfway decent but not optimum. We are definite losing sound with the the DSP.

Since this is primarily the wife’s DD, I can’t run straight line into the amp ( she likes her FM country stations , not tech savvy ) otherwise I’d be done already!

Wondering if I install the BB’s in the amp out wiring ahead of the DCM? It should still see the direct impedance of the speaker since they are two separate signals. Have to cut two more wires to try that
Either that or put the HK tweeters back in.

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That sounds like a winning solution... the dash speakers sounded like the biggest upgrade to my ears. Do you know what type of connectors the amp (straight from the HU right? or is this from the same connector/amp under the seat?) to dcm harness is? Is there an off the shelf splicing harness for this?

Also...I can't believe you are doing this in your wife's car! AND there are AT tires on it :shocked:
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 · (Edited)
On the amp speaker output (30-pin) the tweeters + pins are 9(right) and 13(left). This is where the BB’s would connect in series which is before the DCM.

Yep her ride! I get to pay for it and drive it once in while! We had a JK wrangler rubicon prior so AT tires was an easy sell. Audio upgrades, not so much

BTW sitting here listening to Clapton /Unplugged with iPhone patch cable straight to my amp with HU turned off and sounds awesome LOL. Even with no EQ to boot!

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I just ordered PAC BB-2PR (~600hz) which will be here monday, will let you know how they turn out. I will try it at the dash first since it will charge faster and is lower capacitance so maybe it will just work, but if not will put a male/female pin on it and pull the pins from the amp connector
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 · (Edited)
Ordered two 50uF 100V non-polarized caps from Parts Express, gonna wire them in at the amp end. (Roughly 800Hz?)

Right now I’m running my front and rear factory amp speaker output channels to the LC4 front and rear speaker level inputs, summing them together, and sending combined signals to all four output channels, with the dash speakers running off the factory amp. Once I get the BB’s in the 3.5’s I think I’ll be good. I’m also utilizing the Infinity +3dB tweeter boost in the front 6x9’s, (may turn them off if the BB’s clean up the dash enough), with the HP on the amp outputs both set to 75-80Hz. This will keep the HU Volume & EQ in play.

One thing I’ve figured out is not to use shuffle play since I’m constantly adjusting things based on song content LOL!


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"One thing I’ve figured out is not to use shuffle play since I’m constantly adjusting things based on song content LOL!"

We are birds of a feather. It took me two years to stop fiddling. Album by album is definitely the best for picky listeners like us.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 · (Edited)
Well after taking a break from all this madness, i was able to consult with a “car audio guy”. He suggested not summing the front and rears since the factory amp DSP is likely hurting more than helping when summing things together. He says I pretty much proved it by running my iPhone direct.
Since I prefer to keep the HU and all the factory integration, amping the front and rears “as is” is better since separation is a “good thing”. Just like how stereo sounds better than mono, while adding more power will help the aftermarket speakers. We also agreed the BB’s are needed to clean up the dash since they are still running off the factory amp and the factory HK speakers are likely tweeters only. (Duh! )

In hindsight, I probably would be better off with component speakers up front and try running directly from the factory Amp tuning.


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Discussion Starter · #69 · (Edited)
No question a sub would top it all off for a more complete system. I think the efficiency of the Infinity 6x9's combined with the factory amp front channel (low/mids) tuning results in the fronts to sound slightly overpowered, I'm finding I have to set the front channel HP to about 125-150Hz, where the rears i can leave it set all full range since the factory amp rear channel seems to bottom out at about 125 Hz.

Ill say it once again, source content quality makes a huge difference!

Let me know if you can get the BB's to work directly at the dash 3.5's without tripping the Telematics. Also what value are the caps?
 

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Bass blockers at the amp are a success :wink:

Kind of a pain in the *** to work with that connector/harness for the first time. Needed to do the 4 bolts for the passenger seat, then the 2 nuts holding the amp on before I could really get going

I tried at the speaker and while the starlink light stayed green 1 out of 4 times, I eventually couldn't get it to turn green again so just said forget it and moved to the amp side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
Bass blockers at the amp are a success :wink:

Kind of a pain in the *** to work with that connector/harness for the first time. Needed to do the 4 bolts for the passenger seat, then the 2 nuts holding the amp on before I could really get going

I tried at the speaker and while the starlink light stayed green 1 out of 4 times, I eventually couldn't get it to turn green again so just said forget it and moved to the amp side.
Yeah not much slack on those amp connectors, PITA! I removed the wrapping on the 30-pin to get a little more slack. I cut the front/rear output wires and re-pinned with Molex M/F pins to make a breakout for the LC4, guess I'll have to do the same for the dash (+) wires to add in the BB's. I'm gonna try 47uF caps (800Hz) since I'm pushing the doors a little harder with more power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 · (Edited)
Ended up installing the BB's behind the right front kick plate, was a little easier to access the dash (+) speaker wiring here, but still ahead of the DCM. I think the 50uF may be too much filtering for the 3.5's and I'm losing some mids between the doors and dash. I think it sounded better with the 270uF caps that came with the Infinity 3.5'. Seems the front doors go dead above 500Hz, while the dash are not seeing below 800Hz, so im losing everything in between, at least up front.
 

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Hi Subaru fans. Great discussions, solutions and ideas! . I really enjoyed it. Thanks for all of the useful information and all the hard work. I own a 2018 legacy with the nav and HK upgrade. I've enjoyed the sound for so long and grew tire of it. I'm going on 3 weeks of research now and you guys have made it possible for me to move forward with my plan of integrating a second dsp with a "real sub woofer". I feel that the rear speakers isn't a base speaker, it's just using all the extra air and space from the trunk to mimic a bass effect. Also, if you thought the factory speakers are garbage, go and check the new models like on my own vehicle, they are made from planet friendly recycled materials! . My only question if anyone can help me is to help me find where are the real speaker wires hidden under. I can't seem to find them, not even around the speaker it self. thank you.
 

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I would love to do a side by side comparison of a stock Limited /HK system with my modified/amped sytem, using an identical audio source with equal Volume/Fade/EQ, etc.
Congratulations Vulcan, this is the only clear and definitive description on the Internet of what is going on with all these Subaru HK amps. Although there may be model year and model differences among the Outback, Impreza and the one described here, the information on all of those is consistent with what you have written and what I see described for all of years and models since 2010 with their HK amps and its HU requirements. (There is otherwise lots of incorrect information and speculation as well across the relevant forums.)

I went down the "speaker only" path as soon as I saw the quality of the dash and rear door drivers on my 2012 Outback no-Nav HK amped system. After trying out the best of the top midline drivers in many different configurations and flavors, I found that speakers over the 1.5-2 Ohm originals are pretty much crushed by the channel frequency limitations and 'enforced' DSP going on in the HK amp one either the fader goes to the rear, or the volume is raised above just what is modest for the HK low ohm originals. (The 'Nav' option on this has some kind of 'surround bypass' setting, which is lost in the more common non-Nav, then stuck in some kind of a home theater simulation mode.)

Given what you found about failing to find any unprocessed full range signal source anywhere in the car that will work with the factory HU volume knob (controlling volume apparently at the amp by CANBUS, despite speculation to the contrary repeated around the forums and now corrected), did you consider swaping in a HU factory unit intended or from a Base or Fosgate upgrade?

A last resort perhaps, other than changing your musical preference to jazz, and keeping your quality earphones in the glove box. :)

Others have described uncolored volume controlled output suitable for bypassing the HK monstrosity under the passenger seat as long as they had the base auido or fosgate upgrade originally, great example describe here for a 2017 Impreza "without Fosgate package" = no amp:
(see Factory Audio Augmentation, by hybridflux)

Best
-SF
 

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The "30pin' plug hardware does not seem to be available to make a pass-through harness at the HK amp, according to those who should know.

That leaves the passenger front door kick plate as the least noticeable place perhaps to pick up the 4 wires needed to use as a subwoofer signal (Front right door pos/neg and Front left door pos/neg).

If we can get a picture of what Vulcan called "intermediate connector (R465)", then perhaps someone can make a pass-through harness for that to branch off the 4 speaker level source lines needed. Even better if anyone can recognize the plug and determine where to get one. :) Likely be the same in the Impreza 17+, but will verify for the '18.

Anyone? Thanks!
SF
 

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(y) I will try to find and photograph next week. Otherwise probably also make splices or Posi-tap depending on how tight it is after it comes up from the passenger door sill plate behind the kick panel.

(Vulcan seems long gone already, no message response either.)
 
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