Front Bumper Tow Hook Question

1291 Views 7 Replies 5 Participants Last post by medtech, 7 d ago

VespertheTrek

Discussion Starter · 6 mo ago

Hi Crosstrek Fam,

New member here. I have a 2023 Crosstrek Sport that I got back in October. This car has been a fun project and I’m looking for some advice regarding tow hooks.

I purchased two, D-Ring shackles online for mainly aesthetics, but also in the case they need to be used as I am an avid hiker in the PNW, often traveling into the backcountry.

I saw some other Crosstrek owners on Instagram who have drilled into the tow eye covers so that the “hole” behind the tow hook remains covered. I noticed that the OEM tow pin that comes with the car extends further out of the rear bumper than it does on the front bumper since I have the extra plastic cladding with the sport model on the front. Unfortunately, I would not be able to keep the tow eye cover on the front with a hole drilled because the OEM pin isn’t long enough.

I know there’s all sorts of tow pins I can get online, but they all come with the “shackle” or ring already attached. I’d really like to keep the matching set of D-rings that I already have. I think the tow pin would need to be roughly 7.5” for it to clear the plastic cladding.

Does anyone know of a tow pin I could get that would extend long enough past the plastic cladding and match the thread?

Thank You!

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medtech

· #2 · 3 mo ago

Keep in mind that the tow hooks are NOT recovery points. Under too much force, or under any significant lateral force, will rip those right out. Use caution and make sure everyone is out of the way, in case the thing turns into a projectile.

A 2” tow hook would be a recovery option for the rear. I haven’t found a solution for the front yet.

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Iwannadie

· #3 · 3 mo ago

medtech said:
Keep in mind that the tow hooks are NOT recovery points. Under too much force, or under any significant lateral force, will rip those right out. Use caution and make sure everyone is out of the way, in case the thing turns into a projectile.

A 2” tow hook would be a recovery option for the rear. I haven’t found a solution for the front yet.

I have always wondered why people want to rig that up as a recovery point. It is meant for a tow point under normal road conditions not to snatch someone out of some mud or a ditch?

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AstroKats

· #4 · 3 mo ago

Iwannadie said:
I have always wondered why people want to rig that up as a recovery point. It is meant for a tow point under normal road conditions not to snatch someone out of some mud or a ditch?

Yeah, I've seen the tow guys use that on my L-car to put it on a flat bed (happens a lot, LOL) but I can't see it being used to pull a car out of a ditch. Tow balls are a bad idea, too as they can become deadly projectiles when they snap off.

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medtech

· #5 · 3 mo ago

AstroKats said:
Yeah, I've seen the tow guys use that on my L-car to put it on a flat bed (happens a lot, LOL) but I can't see it being used to pull a car out of a ditch. Tow balls are a bad idea, too as they can become deadly projectiles when they snap off.

Please, everyone research the proper way to recover your car with straps, etc..Tow hitches should be a minimum of 2”, and class III/IV. You will also need some soft shackles, at a minimum.

There are a lot ways to do it wrong. there’s lots videos on various things becoming projectiles, including the one where the hitch ball came off and launched directly through the front windshield.

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Raleighmclemore

· #6 · 3 mo ago

Went through quite a bit of back and forth on "recovery" points with Subaru Corporate masters when i discovered that the OEM hitch covers the tow point at the rear of the car. I was surprised when Subaru Corporate folks told me that the OEM hitch should not be used as a recovery point. During this discussion I was using the example of "What if..." my Crosstrek was nose deep in a snowbank with a wheel trapped in a low ditch.
They said the tow pin provided with the spare should be used to extract/tow/recover the car (but not the OEM hitch). I don't doubt that if the Crosstrek were trapped down a very steep hill that the single tow point provided by Subaru would potentially cause damage to the car if the entire weight of the car was pulled from off center.
Subaru seemed to be saying that "If the car is in a very dangerous position specialized needs would have to be done by professionals."
Not a Jeep, no frame and the single tow points on front and back are the only Subaru Corporate approved points of extraction, recovery, towing or whatever term you use. If the extraction seems too extreme for the single point it probably is and Subaru says get a "professional."
Subaru could not suggest any other point from which to safely extract or recover the vehicle other than the two points recommended in the manual.
Oh yeah, since the Subaru OEM hitch covers the only recovery/tow/extraction point in the rear I asked if I should just leave my car stuck in a snowbank until spring since I couldn't tow it out from the hitch. They sent me the entire cost of my OEM hitch and labor without admitting to any problem with these things. Merely a way to improve customer relations. I took the money and have never gotten stuck head on in a snowbank so I dunno.

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VespertheTrek

Discussion Starter · #7 · 1 mo ago

Raleighmclemore said:
Went through quite a bit of back and forth on "recovery" points with Subaru Corporate masters when i discovered that the OEM hitch covers the tow point at the rear of the car. I was surprised when Subaru Corporate folks told me that the OEM hitch should not be used as a recovery point. During this discussion I was using the example of "What if..." my Crosstrek was nose deep in a snowbank with a wheel trapped in a low ditch.
They said the tow pin provided with the spare should be used to extract/tow/recover the car (but not the OEM hitch). I don't doubt that if the Crosstrek were trapped down a very steep hill that the single tow point provided by Subaru would potentially cause damage to the car if the entire weight of the car was pulled from off center.
Subaru seemed to be saying that "If the car is in a very dangerous position specialized needs would have to be done by professionals."
Not a Jeep, no frame and the single tow points on front and back are the only Subaru Corporate approved points of extraction, recovery, towing or whatever term you use. If the extraction seems too extreme for the single point it probably is and Subaru says get a "professional."
Subaru could not suggest any other point from which to safely extract or recover the vehicle other than the two points recommended in the manual.
Oh yeah, since the Subaru OEM hitch covers the only recovery/tow/extraction point in the rear I asked if I should just leave my car stuck in a snowbank until spring since I couldn't tow it out from the hitch. They sent me the entire cost of my OEM hitch and labor without admitting to any problem with these things. Merely a way to improve customer relations. I took the money and have never gotten stuck head on in a snowbank so I dunno.

Very interesting! Thank you for providing your experience with Subaru regarding extraction. Hopefully I don’t end up in a ditch and if I do, seems like I should only rely on professionals to get me out! It seems silly, but I’m mostly using the hooks for aesthetic purposes.
What can I say? I love my trek 🚙💨

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medtech

· #8 · 7 d ago

Factory screw in hook is for pulling in a straight line on even terrain. Any lateral force will run the risk of shearing off the head. A off-road recovery point is something like a good quality 2” tow hitch in the rear. The front either needs an off-road bumper, or some type of welded recovery points.

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