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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a 2013 Subaru XV Crosstrek Limited CVT with 118K miles at the time of incident. For starters, I knew something was wrong when my dash lit up like a Christmas tree. My “Check Engine Light” lit solid, “Traction Control OFF” light lit solid, ABS light lit solid, uphill light lit solid, “At Oil Temp” light flashing constantly after about a minute of driving, and the white “Cruise Control” light constantly flashing. My dash was lit similar to the one pictured below [not my vehicle].

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My car’s transmission shifting was sluggish and would jolt from time to time while turning at slow speed. My cruise control would not work, no active traction control, I assume no ABS [although I never tested it], and I could not manually shift my CVT using the paddle shifters in automatic Drive or in Manual Mode. The first time my dash lit up like a “Christmas tree”, I only displayed error code P2764. My car limped around with this issue for less than a week while commuting back and forth to work a total of 60 miles daily until one morning I started my car, the dash lights cleared and my vehicle drove light normal. I was able to drive my car for about a week issue-free before my dash lit up while driving. The “Christmas tree” effect was back, but with error code P0700 and P2764!
Again, I had already deduced that either my CVT control valve body lockout solenoid was bad or one of the other solenoids in that valve body were bad based on online reviews and comments found. I talked on the phone 3 times to the local Subaru dealer in Bloomington, IL, regarding my issue and to see if this known CVT failure would be covered under warranty. I told the service clerk that that my vehicle had over 118K miles on it and that I believe one of my solenoids in my CVT control valve body was bad. She kept saying Subaru transmission warranty on my vehicle has been extended to 100,000 miles or Aug. blah of 2021, I believe. She also continued to say that “some components in my transmission may be covered under warranty." This was like a broken record going back and forth not really sure whether this was going to be covered under warranty. I reluctantly scheduled service that was 2 weeks later due to COVID-19 backlog.
I limped my vehicle for an additional 2 weeks. Now it’s been 4 weeks since the initial problem and I have 121K miles on my vehicle. I was getting ready to drop my vehicle off and sign the paper work when I saw that the diagnosis fee was $150 not including repair cost. I asked the service clerk, if my CVT control valve body is bad, will it be covered under warranty? She says your vehicle was what about 84K miles on it. I said no, I had 118K miles when the problem occurred and now I have 121K miles on the vehicle. I told whoever I talked to over the phone this several times. She responds, well if we do not do the diagnostic we can not warranty the repair and that we fixed the problem. I said well I’m 99% sure I already know what the problem is and I don’t need you to charge me $150 to tell me what I already know. I asked again, if the control valve body on the CVT needs to be replaced, is the repair covered under warranty? She says, no because your vehicle is over 100,000 miles. So do you just want us to do the repair, she asked? I said, I don’t want you to touch my car! I don’t need the diagnostic and you can’t help me with the repair! “Thank you, but no thank you,” and I left.
So now I’m really pissed because the dealer wasted my time, I limped my vehicle twice as long as I would have, and I felt like they tried to bamboozle me into getting my money; even though, they knew all along that they were not going to cover my repair cost under warranty. I knew I could get all the repair parts I needed for about $730 shipped to my front door online. I priced with the dealership previously that they would charge $803 for the control valve body kit, about twice the cost of o-rings and gaskets that I found elsewhere online, and at least $300 in labor. Estimate repair alone would cost at least $1200 from dealer if not covered under warranty and not including $150 non-refundable diagnostic charge. I ordered my parts soon as I got home. In addition to the highlighted part numbers (below) I also had to get Three Bond 1215 gasket sealant (Amazon). I also had a $25-30 digital 2011-2014 Subaru XV Crosstrek Repair Manual (via html index with PDF links) that walks you thru step by step for pretty much any repair, diagnostic steps w/ resistance measurements, and all torque specs. I still haven't ohm'd the old valve body yet, although it is still in my possession.

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I got all my parts a week later and started the repair this past Saturday. The repair took me about 7 hrs taking my time to setup, clean work area, replace control valve body, and clean up. I had a few "oh craps" during the repair. (1) The manual told me to remove the throttle body for control valve body clearance. There is 1 electrical connector to the throttle body and 2 hose lines that are preheat fluid lines. Only disconnect the electrical throttle body connector, unbolt the 4 bolts securing the throttle body, and move off to the side. No need to disconnect those 2 hoses unless you want to lose unnecessary fluid. (2) The lower rear bolt (the one with the chassis to transmission grounding factory wire) on the transmission snubber mount took me about 30 mins fighting to get it loose. It was just in a acquired position for 1 person trying to keep tools secured firmly on the bolt and the nut. Use a buddy's help if you have one available. I rounded my nut head a little due to wrench and socket slipping off. I was able to torque the bolt and nut back to 32 ft-lbs, but I'd replace the nut if I ever have to get back there again. (3) The control valve body cover clearance is a little tight; even though, I made a 3/8" drive torque wrench work, a 1/4" drive torque wrench would have been way easier. I already ordered a 1/4" drive torque wrench. (4) I was real timid to use a prying device, fearing the tool might chip or I would chip a piece of the transmission or control valve body cover into the transmission. I had a hell of a time trying to get the control valve body cover up after removing the 12 bolts holding it down. I ended up hitting the only side with clearance with a 5 lb dead blow hammer repeatedly. I eventually started to see the cover move and then "oh crap" to see this cover had 2 holes that have a small stud I guess to align the gasket and cover. I broke 1/3 of the outer edge of the hole that the passenger side front corner stud protruded through. After inspection I concluded that the gasket would still be well secured and sealed. I got super lucky! Now I had the control valve body cover loose except it took me forever to wiggle it and get it to slide off the driver's side middle stud.

Here are a few glory shots during the repair. See if you can see the chipped valve body cover.

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I got everything buttoned back up and torqued to spec. I started the car up and no more lights. Took it for a test spin without issue. Three days later and my transmission is functioning as designed. Success! Saved myself at least $620 in 7 hours. I plan to do a CVT fluid flush later, but I was running out of daylight and I was tired, so that will be another weekend project.
 

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Nice description and pictures r1ashad. Had a couple questions for you. Got the dreaded P0700 and P2764 codes today while driving to work. First, can you tell me where you bought your parts? I'm not seeing anything close to your pricing. Second, what did you do about the learning mode? Says you have to clear the parameters and complete a procedure to relearn?

Thanks

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Nice description and pictures r1ashad. Had a couple questions for you. Got the dreaded P0700 and P2764 codes today while driving to work. First, can you tell me where you bought your parts? I'm not seeing anything close to your pricing. Second, what did you do about the learning mode? Says you have to clear the parameters and complete a procedure to relearn?

Thanks

View attachment 301771
I got my parts from SubaruSource.com. As soon as I installed the parts, reconnected the battery and started the Crosstrek up, all my engine codes cleared immediately w/o a dealer relearn. I took it for a spin around the block, then the hwy, and it drives like new. I ended up doing my planned rear diff fluid change, center diff fluid change, and cvt fluid pan drain and refill that following weekend. All has been well since!
 

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Thank you for the info. Their pricing is a lot better than what I was seeing.

On the relearn, the manual clearly says your supposed to have it done. With all wheels off the ground, you hold the brake pedal hard and I believe the computer must rev the engine and compare pressures to RPMs which calibrates it. At least seems like that is what it is doing. I see many not calibrating but the pros say it should be done. So at the moment I'm trying to figure what to do. Hate to do the valve body and fluid change only to ruin the complete transmission because I didn't do a relearn.

The local Subaru only shop did a terrible job with my engine, I will not go back. Local dealer sucks since they were bought out so got a bit of a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you for the info. Their pricing is a lot better than what I was seeing.

On the relearn, the manual clearly says your supposed to have it done. With all wheels off the ground, you hold the brake pedal hard and I believe the computer must rev the engine and compare pressures to RPMs which calibrates it. At least seems like that is what it is doing. I see many not calibrating but the pros say it should be done. So at the moment I'm trying to figure what to do. Hate to do the valve body and fluid change only to ruin the complete transmission because I didn't do a relearn.

The local Subaru only shop did a terrible job with my engine, I will not go back. Local dealer sucks since they were bought out so got a bit of a problem.
I'd definitely redo it....it wasn't really that hard.....just take your time. The online E-manual definitely helped.....If your getting those codes then your valve body already is be partially or completely bypassed anyway. You could do the repair, drive it, and if you still feel the need to take to dealer for the calibration, then do so after-the-fact. Just my 2 cent.
 

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I'm not seeing a few of the part numbers as needed or even what they are for. I also see 803916010 as the tranny pan gasket not on your list? The Subaru fiche is very poor and broke up making it hard to confirm the parts needed. Can you confirm?

I'm thinking:
31825AA052 valve body
806912200 (2) o-rings below it
31338AA020 top cover gasket
803916010 drain seal
803918060 fill seal

Plan on changing the fluid. I didn't see the need for the top o-ring where the wiring goes into the cover as no real reason to remove.

Thanks again for your detailed info!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm not seeing a few of the part numbers as needed or even what they are for. I also see 803916010 as the tranny pan gasket not on your list? The Subaru fiche is very poor and broke up making it hard to confirm the parts needed. Can you confirm?

I'm thinking:
31825AA052 valve body
806912200 (2) o-rings below it
31338AA020 top cover gasket
803916010 drain seal
803918060 fill seal

Plan on changing the fluid. I didn't see the need for the top o-ring where the wiring goes into the cover as no real reason to remove.

Thanks again for your detailed info!
Yeah, the part number for the drain bolt crush washer is 803916010....same crush washer the engine oil pan uses. I have several of those washers cuz I do my own oil changes, so that's why it wasn't listed.
 
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