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The thing is, it’s not a old generic chart. Maybe that specific one is but it’s the same data as any other I’ve found and I’ve seen nothing that says they’ve their grade criteria . However, I’m more than buying in on the engines being designed for 0w-20 but manufactures can’t recommend a variety and service bays don’t want to have to store several drums of different grades. While the 0 is great for winter months, its pointless from mid Jun through mid Sep when the sun rises around 20°C.

That said, I do agree that going heavier than x-30 might not be a great idea. I just want know why.

—Gotta go!
It has to do with the tighter tolerances of these newer engines. When it is cold (or cooler), oil is thicker (even 0W). So when the engine first starts up, you want the oil to start circulating to all parts as soon as possible. Thinner oil helps that. It is a well known fact that most of your engine's wear actually happens on start up. And synthetic oil also provides better lubrication in tight tolerance engines.

In contrast my air cooled aircraft engine does not have tight tolerances. So it tends to use much heavier oil. In summer, 50 weight is recommended, and in winter, 40 weight. In severe conditions, 20W-50 can be used.

Older cars (many years ago) used to use heavier weights, too, 30 or 40 in the summer and 20 in the winter and 10 for severe cold. Eventually they went to 10W-30.

Now a days, some new cars are going to 0W-16 and as low as -8. You certainly wouldn't want to put thicker oil in those engines.
 

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It has to do with the tighter tolerances of these newer engines. When it is cold (or cooler), oil is thicker (even 0W). So when the engine first starts up, you want the oil to start circulating to all parts as soon as possible. Thinner oil helps that. It is a well known fact that most of your engine's wear actually happens on start up. And synthetic oil also provides better lubrication in tight tolerance engines.

In contrast my air cooled aircraft engine does not have tight tolerances. So it tends to use much heavier oil. In summer, 50 weight is recommended, and in winter, 40 weight. In severe conditions, 20W-50 can be used.

Older cars (many years ago) used to use heavier weights, too, 30 or 40 in the summer and 20 in the winter and 10 for severe cold. Eventually they went to 10W-30.

Now a days, some new cars are going to 0W-16 and as low as -8. You certainly wouldn't want to put thicker oil in those engines.
Another O I L thread... ?

I think I understand the basics but I don't fully understand why our mechanic recommended 5W-20. Perhaps because it's never freezing overnight here and the higher viscosity on startup will protect the engine better, 99.9% of the time (except for the few times we're up in the mountains in the winter. Once the engine gets to operating temperature the ambient temperature should be moot, right? So why 20 and not 30? Because of the tolerances?

He did say he would consider switching to 5W-30 when the engine had 60K+ miles on it.
 

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Another O I L thread... ?

I think I understand the basics but I don't fully understand why our mechanic recommended 5W-20. Perhaps because it's never freezing overnight here and the higher viscosity on startup will protect the engine better, 99.9% of the time (except for the few times we're up in the mountains in the winter. Once the engine gets to operating temperature the ambient temperature should be moot, right? So why 20 and not 30? Because of the tolerances?
He did say he would consider switching to 5W-30 when the engine had 60K+ miles on it.
Depends what kind of cars your mechanic (old school?) is used to working on. 0W- gives best protection at start-up (not higher viscosity), in all weather situations for our cars (tight tolerances). And -20 gets best fuel consumption, but -30 is actually better for your engine (per Subaru Japan). 5W- can be used in a pinch (as per manual), but 0W- is better ongoing.

I am actually going to be switching to 0W-30 Mobil 1 AFE (Advanced Fuel Economy) in mine (once my box of 0W-20 is used up). Have heard that is supposed to make your engine a little quieter, too, after warm up.
 

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Well, being independent, he probably doesn't see the new models until they're a few years old but I've seen some fancy cars in his shop. So, you'd say 0W-30 is best with our balmy 50-80F year-round temps?
 

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Well, being independent, he probably doesn't see the new models until they're a few years old but I've seen some fancy cars in his shop. So, you'd say 0W-30 is best with our balmy 50-80F year-round temps?
Yup, that is my opinion. I'm sure there will be others that may disagree...
 

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Discussion Starter #666
Lol, so much to read.

I figured tighter tolerances had a major impact on it. I thought the filter remained full to ensure oil pressure is instantaneous and protecting on a cold start but yeah, thinner stuff gets sloshed about much easier in those first 15-30 seconds.

@ AK, trying not to turn it into an O I L thread but it’s my current burn item, along with considering what gift to buy Stamford and I with my first month of no car payment fast approaching.

@ RP, I’m liking your sales pitch for 0w-30 and it’s probably where I’ll end up. It makes the most sense but I’m still going to have a look at 0w-40 and try to watch a few side-by-side product tests to see how it compares. If it moves the same as 0w-20 at -30°C, why not get the 40 and be covered when starting temp is +20?

Off to compare 0w-30s. The fun never stops.
 

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If it moves the same as 0w-20 at -30°C, why not get the 40 and be covered when starting temp is +20?
Off to compare 0w-30s. The fun never stops.
Yes, all 0w- works the same at cold temps. But if -40 is too thick for your car's tolerances, then you will get more wear at the higher temps. Remember, these new engines normally go 10K kms without hardly using a drop now (with 0w-20). That's because of the extremely tight piston/rings/cyl clearances we now have. But if they don't always get properly lubricated whether cold or hot, you're going to get wear, and eventually oil burn.
 

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This will be fun! ?

From what I've read, 0w is great when starting in very cold temps but not so great at higher ambient temps. It seems that more viscous oil, when cold, provides more protection during startup when the ambient temp is higher (and when the engine is experiencing the worst wear).

I'm not sure 0w-20 is the best recommendation for all of North America, from Southern California to Northern Canada...
 
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I'm not sure 0w-20 is the best recommendation for all of North America, from Southern California to Northern Canada...
Well, actually, whether it is winter or summer, Southern California or Northern Canada, once the car is fully warmed up, it runs at the same temp, around 109C (oil temp). Unless it is overheating because you are pulling a heavy trailer up a long steep hill at 120F. And in which case you would get a warning light(s). So, yeah, same oil is good for all conditions. That may not have been true in the old, old car days, when oil and coolant were not cooled together. That's when you had to use different oil for winter, and summer. But today's cars are a lot better at engine thermal management.
 

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Discussion Starter #670
Stamford brought home my new little girl on Saturday. Hopefully she’ll soon have a name.
 

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Discussion Starter #672
Congratulations to you all ???‍?‍???? and Stamford
I forgot about my last post. I did bring a new little lady home and Stamford was very excited but it's probably not what you're thinking.
Here's my new, still without a name, little girl enjoying the Kingston Brier, from the hotel.
299285
 

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I forgot about my last post. I did bring a new little lady home and Stamford was very excited but it's probably not what you're thinking.
Here's my new, still without a name, little girl enjoying the Kingston Brier, from the hotel.
Oops. I should never assume. Still congratulations! She's gorgeous.
 

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Discussion Starter #675 (Edited)
That was the longest I’ve been off the forum in a long time. Nothing new, just catching up.
 

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I haven't been here a lot lately myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #677
Got my Harman G3.0 warranty extension notice today. Had no idea Subaru Canada was going to push it but they even failed their ’follow SoA’ schedule.

Still love my Stamford, still dislike Subaru Canada. Truthfully, I haven’t yet let go of the SC boobery in the days leading up to Canada’s MY18’ release. An email reply simply saying “thanks” would have sufficed.

A huge thank you to Subaru of America for publishing information that customers find valuable such as, what may be wrong with or upcoming changes involving their vehicle.

Oh.. yea.. It’s a 5 year/160,000km warranty for the head unit. I’m kinda surprised my OEM radio has lasted almost 3 years but I don’t think it’ll make 5. With my car payment gone in a couple months, I can get an awesome head unit “for free”. By that I mean the money I’m not paying for Stamford can be diverted to a head unit fund. After that, solid gold rims and rockets.

300076
 

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Interesting. We got the 100K Gold warranty free due to the dealer's screw ups, so I haven't paid much attention to this.
 

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Discussion Starter #679
I checked and there’s no denying it.

Six!
 

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Discussion Starter #680
Five!
 
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