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Actually, just checked online, and I was wrong in my previous post. A pulsing green light means it is still not finished charging and is in the final topping stage, and you need to wait until it is a solid green. And when I think back to my charging that indeed is what I look for. I would just leave it on for a long time, until it finally stays green.
I disagree and I was just looking at the manual. I don't want to post in this thread any more - the OP hasn't interacted and we're way off topic. I'll update one of my other threads.
 

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With a 10A device you have to be concerned about breakers, plus how long and how good your extension cords are, and their rating...
10A at 12V is 1A at 120V. I don't know of any extension cord or house breaker that can't handle 1A. Even 18 AWG zip cord is rated for 7A. House wiring is 14 AWG minimum which is good for 15A.

Doesn't appear to have a Force mode. That can be very useful to recharge a battery that went completely dead. Most chargers need a voltage of 9 or 10 before they can even be started. The Genius5 sounded the best to me. Remember, when it comes to chargers, it is not about amp or speed of charge, but how well it does a full charge. Generally slower chargers work better than fast ones.
Point well taken.
 

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10A at 12V is 1A at 120V. I don't know of any extension cord or house breaker that can't handle 1A. Even 18 AWG zip cord is rated for 7A. House wiring is 14 AWG minimum which is good for 15A.
Yep, you're right, and it's getting late here (for me). Sorry.

I have also been trying to figure out how to wire an outlet for a UK kettle here (i.e. 240V at 13A)...
 

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Actually, if you check carefully, the NOCO Genius 10 does have a force mode. It can also act as a supply which the NOCO Genius 5 cannot.
Yeah, just looked at it again. I didn't see a Force but like the 5 has, but upon further reading the instructions, they say hold down the selected charge mode button for 5 seconds. So just a different way of using it. I am sure it is a good charger, just a little more money.

I know their prev gen chargers were highly rated (and popular), so if these can beat that, hard to go wrong. I sure like my little 3500,... does a lot for the money. I think you can buy those now for about $25.
 

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Then look up youtube videos on the subject.

Or just google.
I know what to do, it's just a question of where to run the cable. I even brought a British socket back with me the last time I was in the UK. It's a silly project really, just to boil water for tea more quickly, and it's way far down on the priority list.
 

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I know what to do, it's just a question of where to run the cable. I even brought a British socket back with me the last time I was in the UK. It's a silly project really, just to boil water for tea more quickly, and it's way far down on the priority list.

And you're doing exactly what else with your time recently?
 

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I ordered this meter. It clips on to the battery cable, reads DC current in mili-amps.
I used a Watt meter to measure the draw on ours, which also records the cumulative draw but you should be able to use that to measure the draw.You'll need to connect it inline, so don't try to start the car or you'll fry it, LOL.
 

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I used a Watt meter to measure the draw on ours, which also records the cumulative draw but you should be able to use that to measure the draw.You'lld to connect it inline, so don't try to start the car or you'll fry it,
This meter uses the magnetic field around the cable. It only reads DC amps to 100 amps.
 

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Got it, sorry, from the pic it just looked like a regular multimeter. It would be interesting to see how accurate that is for testing for small power drains, which is what I have been trying to do.
 

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Got it, sorry, from the pic it just looked like a regular multimeter. It would be interesting to see how accurate that is for testing for small power drains, which is what I have been trying to do.
It's a simple amp clamp. Useful so you don't need to make a series connection.
 

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It's a simple amp clamp. Useful so you don't need to make a series connection.
I see that now, I didn't click through to the link, as I thought it was just a multimeter. I'm curious how accurate that would be for the small levels I've been seeing (e.g. less than a Watt when the car is not "woken up"
 

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I received the meter today. I clamped it around the negative battery cable. It read from 16 to 19 milliamperes.
 

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Yep, that's consistent with what I saw with a Watt meter inline.
 
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