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Do you have a water purifier for the lake water to make it safe to drink?

Yeah, hard for guests to remember the "if it's yellow, let it mellow" rule to avoid unnecessary well pump cycles. I don't even try for the "pee on a tree, s#*t in the pit" rule.
We used to drink it right from the lake, just filtering through a 30 micron filter for any larger particles. Lake is very clean, large, 45 miles long, and 1000 ft deep in the middle (deep canyon lake). No such thing here as beaver fever or other parasites, etc, here. It is on the water expansion list for Vancouver sometime in the future when it will be needed. You can see 50 or 60 ft in the water, it is so clear. Having said that, we now bring in big water jugs for drinking fresh water. Anything boiled is OK, though. BTW, in winter, we catch trout right off the dock, nice large sea run cutthroat that follow the salmon runs up in the fall. They go back to the ocean in the spring.

Lake is normally cold, but we are at the top end (north) of a bay, and in summer the prevailing south winds bring all the warm surface waters up here. It can reach 80F sometimes here at our dock. Meanwhile at the south end of the lake it would be only 55F with all the up welling. We have quite the micro climates here.
 

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I have a 2019 Crosstrek plug-in hybrid and drove it once a week around the block during the quarantine.

Well earlier this week, I drove it a bit and parked it... but was listening to the stereo using my phone's Bluetooth and the battery died (stereo and gauges started flickering like crazy, I couldn't even lock the car).

It got towed to a Subaru dealer, but they are backlogged and haven't looked at it yet.

Was shocked this could happen to a brand new battery!
 

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Well, normally you don't have to use an external charger. I still haven't on my Crosstrek, but I do monitor it with the cig plug insert. When I had my truck (before the Crosstrek) I sometimes didn't drive it for months at a time, and had to occasionally top up the battery with an external charger.

But I occasionally do long trips on my Crosstrek and that gets it fully topped up often enough. I have seen it go from 14.4 and then down to 13.2 and even then dropping to 12.7 or so when driving. It takes a couple days of driving to see that. I have even seen it do an equalization charge at 15.1V. So it has a pretty smart charging scheme.

Like I said the worst is running it down or dead, and then not fully charging it and letting the car do it instead. Just because your car starts doesn't mean your battery is fully charged. Even an external charger will take a couple days to properly charge your battery. A poor one will do it quickly and your battery will not be fully charged and may even be damaged (sulfation and/or erosion of the +grid plates).

There 3 main stages of charging. First is bulk (high current and high voltage), which happens pretty rapidly, then topping charge (high voltage but tapering current) and usually takes about 7 or 8 hours on a car battery. The final stage is floating, which keeps it fulling charged. On my trip, it didn't take too long after a stop before it would kick down to the floating charge voltage, which was a good sign.

I learned a lot about batteries and charging on the solar forums, when I did my solar installation at the cabin. Those batteries can last 15 - 20 years if properly cared for, and only 3 or 4 years if not (very common, like my neighbour at the lake).
When I anticipate not driving the car for more than a week or so, I keep it plugged and charged with my NOCO Genius G3500 and it’s served me well so far.

My Crosstrek is a 2015 model and keeping it charged now and then for the past two years has kept my original battery maintained in peak shape. I do the same, or actually more often for my wife’s 2017 BMW since she doesn’t drive it much at all, to make sure the battery gets charged up properly.
 

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When I anticipate not driving the car for more than a week or so, I keep it plugged and charged with my NOCO Genius G3500 and it’s served me well so far.

My Crosstrek is a 2015 model and keeping it charged now and then for the past two years has kept my original battery maintained in peak shape. I do the same, or actually more often for my wife’s 2017 BMW since she doesn’t drive it much at all, to make sure the battery gets charged up properly.
Yup, that's the charger I have, and recommend.
 

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Well, I hope you didn't pay too much.
Same price in USD, LOL!

When you posted the first link in Canadian dollars for the older one, the newer model was much cheaper here. Sorry... 😸
 

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Same price in USD, LOL!
When you posted the first link in Canadian dollars for the older one, the newer model was much cheaper here. Sorry... 😸
Mine was actually the .com (not .ca) amazon site, but I know this gets changed around on diff computers in diff sites. I just wanted to make sure you were getting the best price, and searched around a bit, to other sites. Locally, the best deals on that charger (3500) has always been the local stores (big box) when on sale (better than amazon). It is a very popular charger so should be no shortage of sellers.

If it is as good or better than the 3500, you should be happy with it. Just remember that to get to the final floating charge (green light), it can take a long time (which is good), esp if your battery has not seen a full charge for a while. A poor charger will provide too much current (not voltage) in the final stage and you will end up with a quick, but temporary surface charge.
 

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Yeah, I've noticed the Amazon links get redirected. Maybe to do with how they generate revenue for the site.

From the description on NOCO's site, it appears to be an updated 5A version of the G3500 (3.5A): NOCO - 5-Amp Smart Battery Charger - GENIUS5

It's "out for delivery"! 😸
 

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Well, it has a VERY different charge profile from the Battery Tender! It has been going a couple of hours now and there are spikes up and down on the battery monitor. I'll post the chart when it's done.

The peak charging voltage is still only 14.2V which seems very low, especially as it's on the AGM setting.

The green light is pulsing. Does that mean it's optimizing or in maintenance mode? The manual is ambiguous.
 

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I restarted the experiment after letting the battery sit for a while. Previously, every time I walked past the car with the fob in my pocket it would wake up and the lights would come on and the voltage would drop and ruin my experiment, sigh.

So, now, the fob is far away and it's interesting to see what the charger is doing...
 

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Doesn't appear to have a Force mode. That can be very useful to recharge a battery that went completely dead. Most chargers need a voltage of 9 or 10 before they can even be started. The Genius5 sounded the best to me. Remember, when it comes to chargers, it is not about amp or speed of charge, but how well it does a full charge. Generally slower chargers work better than fast ones.
 

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Well, it has a VERY different charge profile from the Battery Tender! It has been going a couple of hours now and there are spikes up and down on the battery monitor. I'll post the chart when it's done.

The peak charging voltage is still only 14.2V which seems very low, especially as it's on the AGM setting.

The green light is pulsing. Does that mean it's optimizing or in maintenance mode? The manual is ambiguous.
Not sure what you mean by pulsing. A slow steady off and on with the green light means it is fully charged, and reverted to maintenance mode (float charge), which is both a lower voltage, and a very low current. At least that is how the 3500 worked.

When you remove the charger check the voltage (after an hour rest or so). If the voltage is between 12.8 and 12.9, that means it is fully charged.
 

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Not sure what you mean by pulsing. A slow steady off and on with the green light means it is fully charged, and reverted to maintenance mode (float charge), which is both a lower voltage, and a very low current. At least that is how the 3500 worked.

When you remove the charger check the voltage (after an hour rest or so). If the voltage is between 12.8 and 12.9, that means it is fully charged.
I was using the term they used in the owners manual. The "pulsing green light" could mean more than one thing...
 

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I was using the term they used in the owners manual. The "pulsing green light" could mean more than one thing...
Actually, just checked online, and I was wrong in my previous post. A pulsing green light means it is still not finished charging and is in the final topping stage, and you need to wait until it is a solid green. And when I think back to my charging that indeed is what I look for. I would just leave it on for a long time, until it finally stays green.
 
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