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2021 Ice SIlver Sport
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Is it cheaper to clean the PCV valve instead of replacing it?
Wouldn't the PCV valve condition be the same as on any other model of this engine as far as oil / crud accumulation goes? The engine valves would be extremely hot so that oil gets burnt onto them since there is no fuel to wash it off. But the PCV is the same as any other FB, DI or not.

Am I thinking correctly?
 

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Not sure if you've started looking but I know they make an adaptor to make walnut blasting easier for other cars like VW/Audi products. I hope someone could make one for the FB series engine. I know there's one available for the FA20 but not sure if it'll work for the FB engines.

Is it cheaper to clean the PCV valve instead of replacing it?
The adapters were the first thing I looked up after posting. Ive only ever had experience with bmw adapters so finding practically none was a little sad. The adapter from Subie bros looks like it will fit fine since it doesn't appear to be too specific. Think I've decided to just invest in the adapter and media and clean it from the get go instead of the cleaning kit. The adapter makes it really straight forward so why not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Same here. Was planning on starting the yearly cleaning around 10,000 miles. May actually move that up to next oil change to try to stay on top of it.
If Subaru made the induction service part of their maintenance item I think it would keep build-up to a minimum. I know Hyundai/Kia recommends an induction cleaning for every oil change on all their vehicles.
 

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Not surprised in the least to see this. Thanks for posting.
Arthur, Thanks for the pics of the valves, I as well, am not surprised at all. That's why I'm running a catch can to slow down what happened to your valves. I did attempt to look at the valves using a borescope , but was unable to get it by the tumbler valve thingy's in the intake. I now get repeatable , 3 ounces of oil in 5000 miles. Had alot of haters saying how that little bit , tiny , minuscule amount of oil could hurt anything. Thanks to you, now we know! If you don't mind me asking, how long did it take to pull the intake. I see walnut blasting in my future.
Liquid Drinkware Jägermeister Solution Cup
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Arthur, Thanks for the pics of the valves, I as well, am not surprised at all. That's why I'm running a catch can to slow down what happened to your valves. I did attempt to look at the valves using a borescope , but was unable to get it by the tumbler valve thingy's in the intake. I now get repeatable , 3 ounces of oil in 5000 miles. Had alot of haters saying how that little bit , tiny , minuscule amount of oil could hurt anything. Thanks to you now we know! If you don't mind me asking, how long did it take to pull the intake. I see walnut blasting in my future.
It took me about 30-45min to get everything taken apart. I took my time to make sure I didn't miss anything during the removal process because I don't want to break anything. I didn't unplug the fuel line so I took the bolt off that holds the hanger on the manifold because I didn't want to deal with de-pressurizing the fuel system.

The only thing I can say that's tricky to remove is the HPFP cover because of the shape and location but you'll figure out how it comes out then it'll be out of your way. Also, there's a 10mm bolt that holds the EGR pipe on the backside of the engine. It's somewhat hidden but you must remove that bolt or else you'll have a very hard time removing the intake.

When putting everything back together just make sure you triple-check everything because I thought I connected everything and I forgot to connect my MAP sensor... So my dash looked like a tree and I got worried that I messed something up, LOL!
 

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It took me about 30-45min to get everything taken apart. I took my time to make sure I didn't miss anything during the removal process because I don't want to break anything. I didn't unplug the fuel line so I took the bolt off that holds the hanger on the manifold because I didn't want to deal with de-pressurizing the fuel system.

The only thing I can say that's tricky to remove is the HPFP cover because of the shape and location but you'll figure out how it comes out then it'll be out of your way. Also, there's a 10mm bolt that holds the EGR pipe on the backside of the engine. It's somewhat hidden but you must remove that bolt or else you'll have a very hard time removing the intake.

When putting everything back together just make sure you triple-check everything because I thought I connected everything and I forgot to connect my MAP sensor... So my dash looked like a tree and I got worried that I messed something up, LOL!
Yea I cant leave anything alone. Still wanna take a peek at the valves ,I installed the catch can the first day we got the car. Now @ 35,000 Curious to see if they look any better than yours. Thanks Again.
 

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If you end up taking a peak please take pics and send them here for comparison because it'll let us know if the catch can works or not. What kind of driving do you do? Have you done any fuel induction cleaning since owning the car?
Mostly city driving. I had planned on not doing any intake cleaning to see at 30,000 miles what the valves looked like . But after failing with the borescope, I later ran one can of CRC thru for the heck of it before an oil change, but if I get a buildup , walnut blasting is the best solution.
 

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Scotty Kilmer uses Lucas through a vacuum line;
 

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Scotty Kilmer uses Lucas through a vacuum line;
He also probably gets a paycheck to say he uses it. LOL

I plan on using CRC and Berryman. Berryman seems to be a bit easier to use by yourself, as it's done at idle and has a metered release of the product.
 

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He also probably gets a paycheck to say he uses it. LOL

I plan on using CRC and Berryman. Berryman seems to be a bit easier to use by yourself, as it's done at idle and has a metered release of the product.
 

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2020 Crosstrek Limited
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Can the walnut blasting be done with everything still on the car, or do you gotta remove the head?
I believe that the walnut blasting is done on the car- only requiring removal of the intake manifold. The engine has to be turned over by hand to keep the valves closed in the cylinder number being blasted. Then clean-up with a strong vacuum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
this is a great example of how it to do it with and without the adapter on a Mini Cooper. would be simpler on our engines I think.
My friend can 3D print the FA20 adaptor. When I hit 100,000km I'll try to see if the adaptor will work on the FB series engines, and I think it should work because the FA and FB are very similar engines.
 
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