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I have an appointment in the middle of October to have the B6's installed. The cheapest install price I could find, including four wheel alignment, is a Subaru specialist in Temecula. But they are booked solid until mid October. Some places want over $700 just for the installation, that seems crazy high.

What prices are you all paying to have shocks and struts installed (regardless of brand) on your Crosstrek's?
 

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I have an appointment in the middle of October to have the B6's installed. The cheapest install price I could find, including four wheel alignment, is a Subaru specialist in Temecula. But they are booked solid until mid October. Some places want over $700 just for the installation, that seems crazy high.

What prices are you all paying to have shocks and struts installed (regardless of brand) on your Crosstrek's?
$700 isn’t bad for a strut change & an alignment.
Seriously, it’s not that tough of a job. If you brought your car to my house for that, you’d be paying more than $700 for it.
You can get it done in a few hours. As for the alignment...,...,...you can do that too.
You can pull information for the car off of sucross.com
 

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$700 isn’t bad for a strut change & an alignment.
Seriously, it’s not that tough of a job. If you brought your car to my house for that, you’d be paying more than $700 for it.
You can get it done in a few hours. As for the alignment...,...,...you can do that too.
You can pull information for the car off of sucross.com
I am getting the Bilstein's from Discount Tire Direct. The Subaru specialists are charging me $586 for installation and a four wheel alignment.
 

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Yet you’re unhappy with the price?
I just lowered mine & did the alignment. It’s a good amount of work to swap out struts (I didn’t get complete struts either, I swapped springs & top hats onto the new struts) & do the alignment. I’d say you’re getting a deal.
I think you should do it yourself once to see what it takes & then tell me if you still think it’s too much.
I bet you have a different opinion then...,...,...
 

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Simply asking others on here what they have paid for the same job, out of curiosity. I never want to overpay for anything. I am not going to dumbly pull up to a shop and say "hey, whatever you want to charge me for the job is fine with me. I can't do it myself, and I know it's a lot of work and possibly dangerous, so here you go have at it."

I price shop quality, highly rated shops against each other. The best price from a quality shop wins my money. Thats how I do things, if you do things different, bless your heart.
 

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So you’re saying maybe I took your post wrong.?.?.?.?? You weren’t complaining about the price, you were asking about it as to find the best “bang for the buck”? Got it.
Also, I do, do things differently. I do it myself.
 

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Sorry for the delay in uploading this but I finally installed front and rear B6 Struts, LP Lift Kit and replaced a damaged front driver DSS Axel shaft. Total installation time for everything took about 8 hrs over the span of two days. I'm not a mechanic but this installation went very smoothly. I recommend doing your homework and watching the videos recommended in this forum plus other resources.
For all of my fellow DIY rookie mechanics. Notes on the install that were not covered on a video or additional literature: The B6 front struts do not have alignment indicators when compared to the OEM struts. The instructions recommend a professional alignment after installation. I did my best to adjust the top camber bolts to be as close as possible to the original location. Recommend marking and taking a picture prior to removing the original strut.
Pay special attention when removing the rear struts and note the location of the top hats and the alignment of the spring perch, along with the striping on the springs (mine were painted and facing inward). When migrating the components to the new struts its important to get it aligned correctly. Hope this help the next DIY'er. I'll upgrade wheels and tires at a later date, but for now I want to see what kind of MPG I get with the added lift. View attachment Front Strut Installed.jpg
View attachment B6 REAR STRUT.jpg View attachment DSS AXEL.jpg View attachment FINAL.jpg
 

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Where have you guys found B6's for sale for 2018's? I read some of you got them from Discount Tire Direct and Tire Rack but I've come up empty handed.
 

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Just out of curiosity, it's typically agreed that you should replace things in pairs, ie: tires, rotors/pads, struts. Shouldn't this apply to the axel shafts too? Using a used OEM one with a new performance one seems to set my OCD alarm off lol
 

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Pay special attention when removing the rear struts and note the location of the top hats and the alignment of the spring perch, along with the striping on the springs (mine were painted and facing inward). When migrating the components to the new struts its important to get it aligned correctly.
What do you mean by this? Do you mean the Bottom part of the top hat, where its dented to seat the spring? do you have pics?

Also, what do you mean by stripping on the springs? does the orientation of the assembly matter. For Example if it came installed one way, then you flip it 180?

Awesome post by the way!
 

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What do you mean by this? Do you mean the Bottom part of the top hat, where its dented to seat the spring? do you have pics?

Also, what do you mean by stripping on the springs? does the orientation of the assembly matter. For Example if it came installed one way, then you flip it 180?

Awesome post by the way!
The top hat rubber gasket and spring had to sit perfectly for me. I installed one that slipped slightly when I put everything together, and this cause some squeaking. I had to dismantle it and readjust a second time. The stock springs should have an indicator stripe on them. Make sure to rotate them into the correct position.
298126
298128
 

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Just out of curiosity, it's typically agreed that you should replace things in pairs, ie: tires, rotors/pads, struts. Shouldn't this apply to the axel shafts too? Using a used OEM one with a new performance one seems to set my OCD alarm off lol
I thought about swapping both in the beginning. After talking to several local subi mechanics they only suggested replacing the broken CV. OEM vs. aftermarket was not discussed. As luck would have it the wheel bearing just went bad on the CV I didn't replace. Looks like I'll be replacing both.
 

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The top hat rubber gasket and spring had to sit perfectly for me. I installed one that slipped slightly when I put everything together, and this cause some squeaking. I had to dismantle it and readjust a second time. The stock springs should have an indicator stripe on them. Make sure to rotate them into the correct position. View attachment 298126 View attachment 298128
Thanks for the info. Unfortunately, I do not have the OEM springs anymore, I am running on Ralliteks. Additionally, I want to point out that you have to align the middle hole on the Tophat to the bottom Middle hole on the Strut, based on Subaru Manual.

I would've missed the rear alignment had you not mentioned it.

Did you have a hard time aligning the holes in the Rear arm? I removed the arm from the link at the center, not the one behind the disks. Let me know how you handled that part.
 

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Thanks for the info. Unfortunately, I do not have the OEM springs anymore, I am running on Ralliteks. Additionally, I want to point out that you have to align the middle hole on the Tophat to the bottom Middle hole on the Strut, based on Subaru Manual.

I would've missed the rear alignment had you not mentioned it.

Did you have a hard time aligning the holes in the Rear arm? I removed the arm from the link at the center, not the one behind the disks. Let me know how you handled that part.
Since I was I was installing the LP lift, I removed all three bolts from the lower arm. I had to drop the entire rear sub-frame to finish the lift install which might of made it a little easier to get things into place.
298172
 

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Unfortunately the B6s are not yet available in Europe, they will be though from next month or so.

How does the ride quality of the B6 compare with the OEM shocks? Better/worse?
 
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