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For those who want to obsess about their battery state of health, here's a monitor that you can permanently attach to your battery, and then access logs and data from your phone. It only draws 1mA, so will not drain your battery over a long period of non-driving.
Here is a sample graph (not mine), and you can see the voltage drop when the car was started. The weaker your battery, the bigger the drop will be.
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For those who want to obsess about their battery state of health, here's a monitor that you can permanently attach to your battery, and then access logs and data from your phone. It only draws 1mA, so will not drain your battery over a long period of non-driving.
Here is a sample graph (not mine), and you can see the voltage drop when the car was started. The weaker your battery, the bigger the drop will be.
My battery project is on the back burner but I have been on the lookout for something like this to try to keep track of what's happening to the battery over time. I found the same one from another vendor on Amazon Prime at a lower price and ordered it, and it just arrived. I'm testing it with a spare 12v security system battery on my desk and already hit what will probably be a showstopper - the app says it needs access to my phone's location data and won't launch without it. That's BS...

So, it will probably be on its way back to Amazon if they don't respond to my posted questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
- the app says it needs access to my phone's location data and won't launch without it. That's BS...
So, it will probably be on its way back to Amazon if they don't respond to my posted questions.
So how else are they going to sell your data to the local retailers that keep you informed of all their great deals for you?...:unsure:

I take it you don't have a Google Home device in your kitchen (or bedroom, haha)?:D
 

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Battery drain is a curse in new cars. I remember when you had a battery, plugs, points, ignition coil, stater, a couple relays and an ignition switch. Batteries lasted years and you could fix things without plugging in a computer. But you actually had to get in the car to start it. So to help in this nightmare, heres a bit of info...
 

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Thanks Eddie and yes, it's a nightmare. I've documented a lot of it in my battery thread and the drain is pretty low unless the dash cam is on in parking mode. I disagree with you about the good old days but then I was dealing with Lucas Prince of Darkness... ?

And, no, RP, nothing from Google Home or similar, and especially not in the bedroom!
 

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So how can I reduce the battery drain for my '19 Trek premium that sits for several days at a time before starting again. This drain/recharge cycling must be reducing the battery life. Right ? Thought about shutting off Starlink and the alarm, but I'm sure that there are some other drain sources too. Any ideas would be welcome. Thanks.
 

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It's OK, it's "very safe" LOL:

299268


Edit: regarding Google Home, we were talking about the score for a particular wine the other day and my new Google Pixel 4 XL suddenly burst into life and announced where that wine was for sale locally. That's the first time that has happened and is probably due to the recent major Android update. That "feature" has now been turned off!
 

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Before returning this device I thought I would look into why they think it needs location data and found this from 2015:

Access to Hardware Identifier
To provide users with greater data protection, starting in this release, Android removes programmatic access to the device’s local hardware identifier for apps using the Wi-Fi and Bluetooth APIs. The WifiInfo.getMacAddress() and the BluetoothAdapter.getAddress() methods now return a constant value of 02:00:00:00:00:00.
To access the hardware identifiers of nearby external devices via Bluetooth and Wi-Fi scans, your app must now have the ACCESS_FINE_LOCATION or ACCESS_COARSE_LOCATION permissions:
WifiManager.getScanResults()
BluetoothDevice.ACTION_FOUND
BluetoothLeScanner.startScan()

Any comments from the app developers out there?
 

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Out of curiosity, I tried it with OAK's old iPhone 6 and got the same message about it wanting location data. However, the iPhone app will function without location services whereas the Android app will not allow you to continue to pair with the device. Not sure which phone is providing the consumer the best protection... ?

I've tested it with the security battery on my desk and it's working as advertised, so I'll hook it up to the Crosstrek and monitor the battery for a few days, with and without the dash cam on and see what happens. It saves 30 days of battery data, supposedly.

@rickeroo, I've been struggling with this ever since we got the car as OAK has a short commute in traffic. I also want to run a dash cam in parking mode and that just kills the battery. Maybe this little device will shed some light on what's going on.
 

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It's OK, it's "very safe" LOL:

View attachment 299268

Edit: regarding Google Home, we were talking about the score for a particular wine the other day and my new Google Pixel 4 XL suddenly burst into life and announced where that wine was for sale locally. That's the first time that has happened and is probably due to the recent major Android update. That "feature" has now been turned off!
Lol, Naante must be the responsible entity for the "all your base are belong to us" saying; what with the phrasing and syntax of the message.
 

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Well, I didn't expect to report back so soon. I thought it would take a few days to see anything useful but the data from only part of the day yesterday is really interesting!

FYI, after I got the device hooked up to the battery, and paired the app (WITHOUT location data, LOL), I confirmed with my multimeter that it was accurate within 0.02V or so. Way better than those cig port adaptors that are +/- a volt...

I'll paste the chart for the first day below. Here are some comments on it:

1. Ignore everything up to 12pm. In the morning, around 8:30am, I tested it on a spare security system battery. Around 11am I installed it on the battery in the Crosstrek then tried various different things to make sure it was working properly and that I was getting the same readings on my multimeter (I was). Then I left it alone for about five hours. What this DOES tell me is that I need to charge my spare security system batteries! ?

2. Around 4:45pm, the car was started and was driven for about 20mins in LA traffic. It dipped to 12.11V while starting then went up to 14.26V while being driven. Then it settled to around 12.60V. The new Odyssey battery gained a LOT of charge during that short drive in LA traffic!

3. We didn't use the car again yesterday, so I suspect that the blip around 10:30pm is the fuel pump evaporator kicking in, around five hours later. It then returned to the previous voltage and ended at 12.62V for the day. Awesome, since I rarely saw our old OEM battery over 12.2V, often 11.9V, when it was less than two years old. Also, that the Odyssey battery went from around 12.5V to 12.6V after starting the car and only being driven for 20mins in traffic. That's from 80% to 90% depending on which chart you believe.

Actual data:

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Apparently, I picked the perfect time to test a solar panel here - the one week of the year that it's raining...
 

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I still have the OEM battery. I may put it back in and see how it fares... ?
 

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Here's a typical work day (raining, so no solar charging). I'm very pleased with the new Odyssey battery. It hardly breaks a sweat when starting the car. Overnight it only dropped 0.01V from 12.56V to 12.55V so lost in the noise really, which means there's no significant drain going on (until I set the dash cam to parking mode again, LOL).

Overall, I'm pretty happy with this little gadget. Thanks @R P !

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Discussion Starter #16
I still have the OEM battery. I may put it back in and see how it fares... ?
Give it a full offline charge first.

I just got back from a long road trip and was interesting to see my charging behaviour along the way. It took a whole day of driving before I saw my voltage drop down from 14.3 or .4 to a more normal 13.6 after a start and often 12.6 when driving. Also noticed an immediate improvement in gas mileage after that from 6.9L/100kms to an avg of 6.4 (about 37 mpg) according to the car (not manually measured).

Also on long steep declines with ACC engaged (and engine revving higher), often saw the voltage jump up to 15.1V which is actually an equalization charge rate to balance all cells. The charging system seems to be pretty smart.
 

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I've done a lot more tests but given up posting to these threads as no one seems to be interested. The new battery was 98% charged when I installed it a couple of months ago and is doing fine. It drops to 12.0V when the dash cam is on but still starts the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
That dash cam seems to really take a big bite when it is turned on!!
 

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I've done a lot more tests but given up posting to these threads as no one seems to be interested. The new battery was 98% charged when I installed it a couple of months ago and is doing fine. It drops to 12.0V when the dash cam is on but still starts the car.
I searched but can't find where you mention the amperage draw of the dashcam.
Nice reporting on your testing, BTW.
 

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I've done a lot more tests but given up posting to these threads as no one seems to be interested. The new battery was 98% charged when I installed it a couple of months ago and is doing fine. It drops to 12.0V when the dash cam is on but still starts the car.
AK:
Go ahead and post them up, I (if no one else) am interested.
-steve
 
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