[George261]

Hello, please be kind and read this post.
I have subaru xv 2014 nonhybrid, fb20 engine, 105000mile.
I have dissasamblied and cleaned injectors with abro carb cleaner, they was partialy cloged and after cleaning injectors spraied better, but when I assembled and started engine, I have received rich fuel ratio, long fuel trim was -6% and short fuel trim -3 % on iddle 660 rpm, whithout rough.
Now car does not acceleratied as earlier and mpg is bad (18-19 mpg in city).I have replaced air filtre, cleaned MAP, MAF and upstream o2 sensor, trottle body, PCV valve, replaced spark plugs, but without any result.(voltage of every sensors are in normal range)..
Please tell me what to do?
Thank you everyone

 

[Skyfix]

I have Subaru xv 2014 nonhybrid, fb20 engine, 105000mile.
I have disassembled and cleaned injectors with abro carb cleaner, they was partially clogged and after cleaning injectors sprayed better, but when I assembled and started engine, I have received rich fuel ratio, long fuel trim was -6% and short fuel trim -3 % on idle 660 rpm, without rough.
Now car does not accelerated as earlier and mpg is bad (18-19 mpg in city).I have replaced air filter, cleaned MAP, MAF and upstream o2 sensor, throttle body, PCV valve, replaced spark plugs, but without any result.(voltage of every sensors are in normal range)..
Please tell me what to do?
Thank you everyone

I would be curious as to what OBD codes you would be getting?

I would also be curious as to the speeds you drive at including how much time spent idling the vehicle? City speeds? Highway speeds? What is your fuel milage for highway speeds?

It sounds as if you've tried a number of things, so the reason I ask about the speeds has to do with vehicles that have a lot of city driving. It is to my understanding that slower speeds can result in excessive carbon buildup in the engine. As this carbon loosens, it breaks free and then it starts (or could start) clogging the Catalytic Converter. In that scenario, then fuel milage would be affected.

If this is what happened, then a simple solution would be to take the vehicle on a trip at highway speeds for a few hours. 65 MPH to 70 MPH - 100 KPH to 112 KPH of steady driving might help. (I would add a good fuel additive before the trip to help clean the injectors/carbon as well.) The idea is to get the engine at higher RPM's and Temps to help clear things out.

(Catalytic Converters can be damaged by excessive carbon)

Hopefully, someone will read my post and have a better idea - I'm just trying to throw out an idea or two to help!

Hope this helps!

 

[George261]

Thank you for answer..
I have Creader3001 and will not show any fault codes, check engine is not bkinking on Dashboard..
In city I drive on short distance home -work and so.. I drive 20 km per day maximum, and max speed is 50km/h on 2000 rpm. On Higway mpg is from 30 to 35 on steady speed 100km/h and without bagage. With bagage and passangers from 25 to 30mpg.
I am owner of this vehicle one year and used only good fuel (98 octane).
I have also thought about catalitic converter, but how check i dont know..

 

[George261]

I would be curious as to what OBD codes you would be getting?

I would also be curious as to the speeds you drive at including how much time spent idling the vehicle? City speeds? Highway speeds? What is your fuel milage for highway speeds?

It sounds as if you've tried a number of things, so the reason I ask about the speeds has to do with vehicles that have a lot of city driving. It is to my understanding that slower speeds can result in excessive carbon buildup in the engine. As this carbon loosens, it breaks free and then it starts (or could start) clogging the Catalytic Converter. In that scenario, then fuel milage would be affected.

If this is what happened, then a simple solution would be to take the vehicle on a trip at highway speeds for a few hours. 65 MPH to 70 MPH - 100 KPH to 112 KPH of steady driving might help. (I would add a good fuel additive before the trip to help clean the injectors/carbon as well.) The idea is to get the engine at higher RPM's and Temps to help clear things out.

(Catalytic Converters can be damaged by excessive carbon)

Hopefully, someone will read my post and have a better idea - I'm just trying to throw out an idea or two to help!

Hope this helps!

Thank you for answer..
I have Creader3001 and will not show any fault codes, check engine is not bkinking on Dashboard..
In city I drive on short distance home -work and so.. I drive 20 km per day maximum, and max speed is 50km/h on 2000 rpm. On Higway mpg is from 30 to 35 on steady speed 100km/h and without bagage. With bagage and passangers from 25 to 30mpg.
I am owner of this vehicle one year and used only good fuel (98 octane).
I have also thought about catalitic converter, but how check i dont know..
this is today data streem with obd

 

[Skyfix]

There are several videos on YouTube that you can find. Here is one that you can watch.

Scotty also has a video that you can check out:

I would hope that you would search and watch a few more. (I am sure there are better videos out there!)

On this forum, there are some strong opinions about fuel and octane. I am not wanting to start a fight or debate and will just make a few statements for you to think about.

The only thing octane does is control the burn rate of the fuel. The higher the number, the slower the burn rate, which is why high octane is used in higher performance/compression engines to prevent preignition. That's my very short explanation!

Subaru recommends 87 octane fuel. Their engine doesn't have the compression or horsepower of a 2021 Corvette. So it does not need 98 octane fuel. (High octane does not equate to high quality.) Because of this, I only use what the owners manual recommends!

On 8/23/2021, I purchased our new Crosstrek Limited. I now have 14,318 miles on it (23,042 Kilometers). I only use 87 octane fuel and at highway speeds of up to 85 mph, I will get 28 MPG to 29 MPG. If I slow down, I can get over 30 mpg.

I will run "Seafoam" fuel additive through the engine or "Techron" fuel additive. I like watching "Project Farm" videos because he seems to know what he is doing. (Some fuel additives can cause damage and many people believe they are a waste of money.)

On my 2013 Crosstrek with 110,111 miles, I noticed oil on the #3 spark plug (passenger side closest to the firewall). After having a short block replaced and valve springs replaced, it should have looked like the other spark plugs. IMHO, that would eventually cause problems. Just something to check out and think about.

Again, I hope one of the other members with more engine and diagnostic experience will chime in with their thoughts!

While writing this up, my spouse asked for my help so that she could move our compound miter saw by herself:

So we made a cart and base for her. Our solar powered shed is in the background and you can see the tomato & cucumber cages in our small garden (Rain water is collected from the shed and stored in rain barrels for the garden.) We also have our neighbors 3 year-old, 5 year-old and Australian Shepherd who love to come over and visit. (Our two cats get along with them just fine.) This is part of the reason why I've been editing my answer so often - we have a bunch of projects going on and I am being pulled in a lot of different directions today!

Okay, so I went back and looked over your reply. Based on what you wrote, you are driving a maximum of 31 mph for 12.5 miles each day at 2000 RPM's. I would suspect that is not helping matters. Would it be possible to run a few bottles of injector cleaner and run the engine at around 2500 RPMs? Perhaps run the vehicle for an hour or so several times over the next few weeks? My guess is that the slow speeds and short trips are part of the issue... I could be wrong!

(Another link to consider!)

Anyway, I hope this helps!

 

[George261]

There are several videos on YouTube that you can find. Here is one that you can watch.

Scotty also has a video that you can check out:

I would hope that you would search and watch a few more.

On this forum, there are some strong opinions about fuel and octane. I am not wanting to start a fight or debate and will just make a few statements for you to think about. (I had one member accuse me of posting "Click Bait" who didn't and doesn't know what click bait is!)

The only thing octane does is control the burn rate of the fuel. The higher the number, the slower the burn rate, which is why high octane is used in higher performance/compression engines to prevent preignition. That's my very short explanation!

Subaru recommends 87 octane fuel. Their engine doesn't have the compression or horsepower of a 2021 Corvette. So it does not need 92 octane fuel. (High octane does not equate to high quality.) Because of this, I only use what the owners manual recommends!

On 8/23/2021, I purchased our new Crosstrek Limited. I now have 14,318 miles on it (23,042 Kilometers). I only use 87 octane fuel and at highway speeds of up to 85 mph, I will get 28 MPG to 29 MPG. If I slow down, I can get over 30 mpg.

I will run "Seafoam" fuel additive through the engine or "Techron" fuel additive. I like watching "Project Farm" videos because he seems to know what he is doing. (Some fuel additives can cause damage and many people believe they are a waste of money.)

Again, I hope one of the other members with more engine and diagnostic experience will chime in with their thoughts!

I hope this helps!

Thank you for attention and information,
I will watch this videos...

 

[George261]

There are several videos on YouTube that you can find. Here is one that you can watch.

Scotty also has a video that you can check out:

I would hope that you would search and watch a few more. (I am sure there are better videos out there!)

On this forum, there are some strong opinions about fuel and octane. I am not wanting to start a fight or debate and will just make a few statements for you to think about.

The only thing octane does is control the burn rate of the fuel. The higher the number, the slower the burn rate, which is why high octane is used in higher performance/compression engines to prevent preignition. That's my very short explanation!

Subaru recommends 87 octane fuel. Their engine doesn't have the compression or horsepower of a 2021 Corvette. So it does not need 92 octane fuel. (High octane does not equate to high quality.) Because of this, I only use what the owners manual recommends!

On 8/23/2021, I purchased our new Crosstrek Limited. I now have 14,318 miles on it (23,042 Kilometers). I only use 87 octane fuel and at highway speeds of up to 85 mph, I will get 28 MPG to 29 MPG. If I slow down, I can get over 30 mpg.

I will run "Seafoam" fuel additive through the engine or "Techron" fuel additive. I like watching "Project Farm" videos because he seems to know what he is doing. (Some fuel additives can cause damage and many people believe they are a waste of money.)

On my 2013 Crosstrek with 110,111 miles, I noticed oil on the #3 spark plug (passenger side closest to the firewall). After having a short block replaced and valve springs replaced, it should have looked like the other spark plugs. IMHO, that would eventually cause problems. Just something to check out and think about.

Again, I hope one of the other members with more engine and diagnostic experience will chime in with their thoughts!

While writing this up, my spouse asked for my help so that she could move our compound miter saw by herself - without my help:

View attachment 311099

So we made a cart and base for her. Our solar powered shed is in the background and you can see the tomato & cucumber cages in our small garden (Rain water is collected from the shed and stored in rain barrels for the garden.) This is part of the reason why I've been editing my answer so often - we have a bunch of projects going on!

Anyway, I hope this helps!

When I replaced spark plug, ignition coil was little wet with oil,, and inside the tube was 1-2ml oil maximum, I have dried and and put spark plugs. I have asked to master and told me that its normal, I am changing oil every 5k mil without adding 0w 20 Motul. And today I was higway and noticed that o 140 km/h when I turned on cruise control, CVT worked on 5th gear, when I shifted on 6th, cvt automaticaly reduced, as I remember on my car history on carfax, first owner has changed cvt fluid on 50k mil in USA..
Good luck in your garden work...

 

[77'911]

Your mpg doesn't seem too bad. Having said that, at 100k , you might consider checking the fuel pressure. At that mileage, there is a good chance the filter at the pump assembly is starting to clog at a minimum.
regards

 

[kr_xv]

Hello, please be kind and read this post.
I have subaru xv 2014 nonhybrid, fb20 engine, 105000mile.
I have dissasamblied and cleaned injectors with abro carb cleaner, they was partialy cloged and after cleaning injectors spraied better, but when I assembled and started engine, I have received rich fuel ratio, long fuel trim was -6% and short fuel trim -3 % on iddle 660 rpm, whithout rough.
Now car does not acceleratied as earlier and mpg is bad (18-19 mpg in city).I have replaced air filtre, cleaned MAP, MAF and upstream o2 sensor, trottle body, PCV valve, replaced spark plugs, but without any result.(voltage of every sensors are in normal range)..
Please tell me what to do?
Thank you everyone

When you drive short distance from cold morning, mpg will be bad. Based on fuel trim, your fuel syatem looks ok. Another item you can check is tire pressure, brake (not stuck). What plug do you use and what is the gap setting?

 

[George261]

When you drive short distance from cold morning, mpg will be bad. Based on fuel trim, your fuel syatem looks ok. Another item you can check is tire pressure, brake (not stuck). What plug do you use and what is the gap setting?

Tire pressuere is 32psi, spark plugs are SILZKAR7B11 bought on ebay for 50 usd 4 item(as seller wrote, original item).
I have cganged all Brake calipers because of corosion, also changed rear brake disks (front was ok) and all brake pads with hanbrake pads. So brake system is idealy... what about gap setting, old plug and new one was same visuality...

 

[George261]

Your mpg doesn't seem too bad. Having said that, at 100k , you might consider checking the fuel pressure. At that mileage, there is a good chance the filter at the pump assembly is starting to clog at a minimum.
regards

Agree with you, only what I have not checked yet is fuel pump... but when I have rich ratio it means that I have more fuel, If pump filtre is cloged I would have lean fuel ratio...

 

[mycj7]

Oxygen sensor readings look high, looks to be excess un-metered air getting into the engine which is being read as a high voltage. Could be a bad o2 sensor. Did you have the intake off or leave a vacuum line off? Check for loose fitting/ cracked intake tubes past the Mass Airflow sensor.

 

[77'911]

Agree with you, only what I have not checked yet is fuel pump... but when I have rich ratio it means that I have more fuel, If pump filtre is cloged I would have lean fuel ratio...

When the pump can't make the proper pressure for the injectors, it has a tendency to stream into the cylinder instead of atomize the fuel(IE goes through way more fuel, wears down rings/cylinder walls, etc..). The car's ecu will try to offset this, but it is what it is. On the family's 2011 Outback I had to change the pump assembly out at 35k due to a clogged filter in the assembly.

 

[Skyfix]

I like some of the other members answers better than mine. Starting with the simple and cheapest and working up to the more expensive and complicated is best!

If the issue turns out to be a clogged fuel filter, then you might consider what the turn over rate is at the fuel station. Which fuel is replaced faster? As a rule, the more expensive gas sits in the storage tank longer because people choose the less expensive fuel.

FYI: I've never personally experienced a clogged fuel filter for my gas powered vehicles, but have had to replace fuel filters in my diesel powered vehicles. I also avoid fueling my vehicles when the gas station is getting a delivery. I try to purchase from stations that have a lot of traffic from people buying fuel. I also try to keep my fuel tank full, which helps reduce morning condensation inside the tank.

Just something else to consider!

I do hope that this helps!

 

[George261]

When the pump can't make the proper pressure for the injectors, it has a tendency to stream into the cylinder instead of atomize the fuel(IE goes through way more fuel, wears down rings/cylinder walls, etc..). The car's ecu will try to offset this, but it is what it is. On the family's 2011 Outback I had to change the pump assembly out at 35k due to a clogged filter in the assembly.

Thnks I will check fuel pump....

 

[George261]

Oxygen sensor readings look high, looks to be excess un-metered air getting into the engine which is being read as a high voltage. Could be a bad o2 sensor. Did you have the intake off or leave a vacuum line off? Check for loose fitting/ cracked intake tubes past the Mass Airflow sensor.

Vacuum lines and intake tubes is ok. I have ask for o2 sensor to master and told me that 2.1v is normal, but as i have read it must be from 0.1v to 1v.. I have cleaned with carb cleaner sensor. How do think must i replace it?

 

[sas-XV]

Vacuum lines and intake tubes is ok. I have ask for o2 sensor to master and told me that 2.1v is normal, but as i have read it must be from 0.1v to 1v.. I have cleaned with carb cleaner sensor. How do think must i replace it?

I believe that the latest iteration of O2 sensors use the higher voltage. I do not remember when the change was made.

 

[George261]

I believe that the latest iteration of O2 sensors use the higher voltage. I do not remember when the change was made.

Ok thank you, i think too that voltage is high, will try to replace and test.....

 

[kr_xv]

Ok thank you, i think too that voltage is high, will try to replace and test.....

If the O2 sensor voltage is out of spec then it would be the one need to solve first, other possibility is weak ignition coil, so even though you change new plug, with weak coil it is better to gap the plug slightly smaller (e.g. 1 mm instead of 1.1 mm default) to reduce misfire chance that may impact MPG. Of course, if you had not buy the new plug, the new NGK dual point tip will work even better. FYI, the new Crosstrek actually only use 0.8mm for the gap on dual point tip, but the old one use 1.1 mm as default in single point tip.

 

[George261]

If the O2 sensor voltage is out of spec then it would be the one need to solve first, other possibility is weak ignition coil, so even though you change new plug, with weak coil it is better to gap the plug slightly smaller (e.g. 1 mm instead of 1.1 mm default) to reduce misfire chance that may impact MPG. Of course, if you had not buy the new plug, the new NGK dual point tip will work even better. FYI, the new Crosstrek actually only use 0.8mm for the gap on dual point tip, but the old one use 1.1 mm as default in single point tip.

Ok thank you, first of all will replace o2 sensor....