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Been looking all over the website for any info on installing a component speaker system, specifically installing new tweeters and how to run the wiring for them from the crossover box? I've sen the "plug and play/bolt-in" Kicker tweeters but am looking for info on installing a total component system, anyone, please? I've taken my front speakers off, got some angled brackets and mounted my Polk MM6501 speakers in the doors, wired to the existing wiring from the HU to the doors. But am having trouble trying to figure out several things:
A. Where/how to install the crossover boxes?
B. how to "fish" the new tweeter wires from the dash to the crossover boxes?

Any info help with this is greatly appreciated, Thanx!!
 

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Over on a Forester forum, I saw someone install the crossover boxes in the door trim to the rear of the cup/map holders in that large empty space. You can probably mount it next to that big piece of foam.

As for fishing the wires back, I'm assuming you would have remove the rubber boot, feed the wire out the door through the boot and into the main body of the car, and then re-attach the boot.... I don't know how easy or hard it would be to remove the boot but it's probably a similar system as the wiring boots for the hatch.
 

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Thinking about it a bit more...

You might be better off to remove the tweeter dash cover first, then drop the speaker wire down the hole to the floor then try to fishing it through the wiring boot... I've always found it easier to drop wires down than to push them up... :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Richard and Waterlogged. I took a good look at the door and the rubber boot. I did get the MM6501's mounted in the front doors, I think they really sound very good! The tweeters are njext and then the DXi650's in the rear doors.
 

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You should be able to install the crossover in the area up near the inner door handle and back-run the tweeter wiring through the door boot and up to the tweeters. The other option is to install the crossover behind the dash and re-use the OEM door speaker wire to feed the midrange and run a very short run up to the dash tweeter location.

Here are a few links to help...

Where to mount the crossover: Audio System | Subaru Audio (Under the "Front Stage" section)

How to wire up to use the factory wires to feed the midrange: Wiring | Subaru Audio (Section/tab "Wiring the Amp to the Front Speakers Using the Factory Wiring")

General XV installation info: Crosstrek XV | Subaru Audio
 

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... The other option is to install the crossover behind the dash and re-use the OEM door speaker wire to feed the midrange and run a very short run up to the dash tweeter location. ...
That is the plan I have: put the crossovers behind the HU. But where do the existing tweeter wires come from? Is the source side of those tweeter wires split off from the front door wires somewhere behind the HU?

I'm wondering why I would need to run new wires for the tweeters since I already attached my new tweeters to the existing wires and they work. I also re-used the existing white connector (minus capacitor):

View attachment 86441
 

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the stock tweeter wires split off of the speaker wires going to the door speakers.
Your new component tweeters need to be wired to the crossover (the box that comes with them). The crossover will have + and - IN which will attach to the HU. The crossover will have High + and - OUT and Low + and - OUT. The low out goes to the door or woofer, and high must be wired to the tweeter. You cannot use the XV's existing tweeter wire without defeating the purpose of the crossover. maybe this pic can shed some light on how yours needs to be wired.

FWOLQH6FJ1I6AV9.MEDIUM.jpg

The stock configuration is a "Y" from the head unit to the door speak and tweeter and the crossover is the small cap attached directly to the tweet which is essentially a low quality "bass blocker."

What you have is a higher quality crossover network that divides the sound from the HU into two separate frequencys for each speaker. The stock set up runs full range audio to both speakers.
 

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In order to install the crossover behind the dash, you will cut the font left and right coming out of the head unit and install in the pos and neg IN on your crossover, the remaing wires cut going to the speakers will be for the LOW Freq out on the crossover. Then you just need to make a short run of wire from the crossover HIGH to the tweets. Ignore the stock tweeter wire. Make sense?
 

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Got it coletrain, and yes it makes perfect sense.

I think I know how the new hookups go, but was uncertain that the actual stock "Y"-split for the front door and tweeter was located behind the head unit, and I don't know why some people say I need to run new wires for the tweeters. Maybe because the stock tweeter wires are in a tight place and it is easier to fish a new set? Or do they just want fatter wires? I have some 16 gauge.

I have pretty much all my parts in-house now, including "enough" sound deadening material. I will get a powered subwoofer later if needed (probably will to get the full spectrum).

While I'm here and you are online ..one more. I know the power cable run from the battery to the amp needs to be physically separated from the signal wiring to minimize noise, so did you run it along the floor by the driver's door, or on the opposite side of the center console?

Sorry that my questions are scattered all over this "interior and audio" forum.
 

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I believe the Y split happens somewhere deep in the wiring harness under the dash where no one will ever see without removing the entire dash. Just easier to run wires.

I ran my power cable from the batt through a gasket behind the front drivers side fender (much cleaner looking than punching a hole in the fire wall- who wants a high power wire dangling around the engine bay). You will see some stock wiring going in there (Subaru knows best). It enters the cabin up high above the left foot rest and I ran it up against the fire wall to the passengers side and back along the center console down the carpet to a hole I cut in the carpet under the passesgers seat. If you put your amp under the drivers seat you could go either along the console or the door jam on the drivers side. there is a lot of room under the console to keep bundles of wires separated and its pretty easy to remove. check my subwoofer install pics in my build thread for some ideas. I am not sure how thick your wire is so that may limit whether it can go along the door jamb.
 

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Got it coletrain, and yes it makes perfect sense.

I think I know how the new hookups go, but was uncertain that the actual stock "Y"-split for the front door and tweeter was located behind the head unit, and I don't know why some people say I need to run new wires for the tweeters. Maybe because the stock tweeter wires are in a tight place and it is easier to fish a new set? Or do they just want fatter wires? I have some 16 gauge.

I have pretty much all my parts in-house now, including "enough" sound deadening material. I will get a powered subwoofer later if needed (probably will to get the full spectrum).

While I'm here and you are online ..one more. I know the power cable run from the battery to the amp needs to be physically separated from the signal wiring to minimize noise, so did you run it along the floor by the driver's door, or on the opposite side of the center console?

Sorry that my questions are scattered all over this "interior and audio" forum.
Assuming that you will be using a wire harness (Metra, Scosche, etc.)
to install an aftermarket HU, I would try to do it this way:

1. DON'T connect the front speaker leads from the aftermarket HU to
the corresponding wires on the aftermarket harness.
2. Take the speaker wiring from the aftermarket HU and extend it with 16
gauge speaker wire that runs directly to the crossover INPUT. I'd
plan to stash the crossovers either behind the headunit or in the
kickpanel area.
3. Run the TWEETER output fron the crossover to the aftermarket tweeter in
the dash and be sure to disconnect any OEM wiring that was connected
to the OEM tweeter (this should be done when you remove the OEM
tweeter). You may need to extend the wiring from the crossover with
more 16 gauge speaker wire.
4. Run the WOOFER Output front the crossover up to the aftermarket HU
harness wires that you did not connect when wiring up the headunit.
5. Connect the crossover WOOFER outputs to the harness so that you can
re-use the OEM wiring that runs to the doors.
6. Use Metra 72-8104 connectors in the doors to connect the aftermarket
woofer to the OEM wiring.

This avoids cutting the connector off of the OEM tweeter wiring and doing any additional splicing, which is often a concern in aftermarket component installs.
 

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2. Take the speaker wiring from the aftermarket HU and extend it with 16
gauge speaker wire that runs directly to the crossover INPUT.
Come on, man. 16 gauge is for sissies. Be a man and run 12 gauge to the crossover input and 12 gauge to your midbasses. Tweeters are fine with 16 gauge.
 

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Come on, man. 16 gauge is for sissies. Be a man and run 12 gauge to the crossover input and 12 gauge to your midbasses. Tweeters are fine with 16 gauge.
For that short of a run anything larger than 16 is a waste unless you push ~100 watts. And on top of that my procedure was based on a simple install that relied on backwiring through the OEM wiring to get to the doors rather than snaking new wire to the doors. Running 12 gauge to just splice into OEM 18 or 20 gauge is a waste.
 

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For that short of a run anything larger than 16 is a waste unless you push ~100 watts. And on top of that my procedure was based on a simple install that relied on backwiring through the OEM wiring to get to the doors rather than snaking new wire to the doors. Running 12 gauge to just splice into OEM 18 or 20 gauge is a waste.
mishide did say anything about waste... he said "be a man". :)
 

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my procedure was based on a simple install that relied on backwiring through the OEM wiring to get to the doors rather than snaking new wire to the doors. Running 12 gauge to just splice into OEM 18 or 20 gauge is a waste.
Sorry for meddling. And yes, for people shooting at a simple install utilizing the OEM wiring your advice is adequate. My post was partly a "smart-*** comment", but partly a hint to bite a bullet and run new proper wires. Disregard.
 

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Sorry for meddling. And yes, for people shooting at a simple install utilizing the OEM wiring your advice is adequate. My post was partly a "smart-*** comment", but partly a hint to bite a bullet and run new proper wires. Disregard.
No offense taken- I figured you were joking. But your point is valid that new wires are the best solution. I have found that for people doing things in phases, people who lease their vehicles (or don't hang onto them for a long time) or are not comfortable with some aspects of modification that re-using the stock wiring is their preferred course of action.

In my 2011 WRX I actually used the back-wiring tactic as a temporary thing...3 years ago. But only pushing 40-50 watts per channel I felt no need to replicate the OEM wiring with a second run just to say that I ran new wires. In other vehicles that was the first thing that I did, but in the WRX I had heard horror stories about snaking new wires so I piggybacked on the OEM wiring and just used the tactic that I laid out above. For my low wattage it was not worth the effort to run new wires. Even though it would have been the "right" way to do it there was not really anything wrong with my tactic.

I thought it was funny :icon_lol:
I did as well. It isn't often that I am told to "be a man" about something but that was pretty funny.
 

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I was waiting for someone to bring up the idea of using duct tape to secure the speakers in place as well as insulate the bare wires!
 
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