He wasn't there!
16 Crosstrek Premium Quartz Blue Pearl
Hopefully Cutlass will respond. All of these LED companies say “ for off-road use only” for the low and high beams.
I used a DeAutokey HID kit in MY16. I used the 9011 HIRs in the highs. I contacted Nick at DD and received free freight. I used DD’s H11 SL1s 5000K in the fogs, and they widened the light.
The DD LEDs in the the high beam slot will both flicker, and be at 100% brightness all the time. There is a work around for this, and you can do that and get just a different DRLs, or you can go without DRLs. I did the work around. And while done is done, and I like the affect, the cost and difficulty of doing it was such that I wouldn't recommend it, or do it again.Do the Diode Dynamics flicker with DRL on?
I am on the fence totally about upgrading to LED's in these headlights. The DD's do look like a normal white though. But the package I got had both 9005's and H11's. So I'd like to see both before committing to the extra cost. If nothing solves the DRL strobing, then I am not going to attempt a convert to any other light. I see DD offers 9005's, but if you go to their site an search by vehicle, the only things they list as compatible are the fog lights.
What is the work around to get the DRL's to function?
I wonder if a pi filter ( 2 capacitors and an inductor) would smooth out the 6 volts. That would be for the EEs to ponder.The reason all the LED's flicker is because Subaru uses a PWM, pulse wave modulation, for the daytime running lights. Halogens react to this by appearing dimmer, but LED's will see full voltage pulsing on and off very fast. Nothing you can really do to change that.
I went down this rabbit hole trying to have off road lights automatically turn on, via a relay, with the high beams and not the DRL's. I was able to mostly achieve that by using a second relay tied into the parking lights circuit.
Oh, there is no doubt that you can create am electronics circuit to filter it out. It was just too much of a pain for me to worry about. I did try using a relay thats latching voltage was less than 6v, but it still picked up the PWM signal.I wonder if a pi filter ( 2 capacitors and an inductor) would smooth out the 6 volts. That would be for the EEs to ponder.
I was not considering off-road lights. If there's a fuse for the high beams, either in the engine compartment or interior fuse box, use a fuse tap and relay to turn on the off-road lights.Oh, there is no doubt that you can create am electronics circuit to filter it out. It was just too much of a pain for me to worry about. I did try using a relay thats latching voltage was less than 6v, but it still picked up the PWM signal.
What I wanted was to be able to have my A-pillar mounted offroad lights turn on and off with the highbeams. I hated fumbling in my forester to turn them off seperately when I came upon another driver. So I just made a simple logic circuit; If the parking lights are on (relay one), then the highbeams signal can then pass through to relay two, which is controlled by the highbeam signal, to turn on/off the offroad lights.
The only issue would be if you wanted to have just the parking lights on, but no headlights, then the DRL signal still gets to the offroad lights and they'll flicker. Not really an issue since I have a OEM switch that acts as a bypass, it has to be on to even allow the offroad lights to work. So it never happens in reality. Obviously the offroad lights are LED's.
lol, um... yeah. Since the DRL's and the high beams share the same 12v source (and fuse), that isn't an option. I have a good workaround for my situation, it's people like OP that want to replace the halogen bulbs with a LED lamp that can't get around the PWM making them flicker and/or incorrectly see full power.I was not considering off-road lights. If there's a fuse for the high beams, either in the engine compartment or interior fuse box, use a fuse tap and relay to turn on the off-road lights.