Model Year 2012 to 2017 Is there a battery issue? - Page 2

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Thread: Is there a battery issue?

  1. #11

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  3. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by djriful View Post
    Cold climate sub -20c, the stock battery with 390 CCA is not enough power for the starter. The energy CCA dip low 100-130 CCA after overnight parking. Got mine replaced by Subaru with 500-600 CCA, my lights and dash do not flicker anymore when I start the car in sub -20c.
    Actually, 390 CCA is enough for the starter. The problem is that most people don't maintain or do preventative maintenance on the battery so when it gets to -20C, you are no longer getting good performance out of the battery.

    We have to remember that the rating of 390 CCA is when the battery is new and fresh from the factory. Once the battery is shipped from their warehouse, stored at Subaru, installed and shipped from Japan, then sits on the lot, a year may have passed resulting a loss of capacity even in a 'new' car - that battery might be a year old and hasn't been fully charged since it left the factory. Given that lead acid batteries have a self-discharge rate of 5% a month, over a period of a year, the battery would have drained to just 55% of the rated capacity over those 12 months. To make matters worse, the initial 26.5% of the battery's capacity may not be recoverable at that point due to the soft sulfation changing into hard sulfation so after fully recharging the battery, you would get a max of 73.5% of the original capacity.

    So what does that mean for us?

    That 390 CCA battery might actually have a performance of a 300 CCA battery for your first Winter (provided that the dealer fully recharged your battery before delivery which they probably didn't). This Winter I measured that the CCA of the battery drops during sustained (a week or longer) sub-zero conditions of at least 15 to 20% from above zero conditions as measured by battery analyzer. The lowest CCA I measured over this past Winter was 250 and the car still started fine.

  4. #13

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  6. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by DallasJW View Post
    What it means is Subaru should have put in a bigger battery.
    A larger battery will only 'kick the can further down the road' but it won't take care of the can.

    Most newer cars, and the Crosstrek is no exception, have smart/eco-friendly alternators in an effort to save gas by limiting how often the alternator is loading the engine (think A/C compressor) and using the battery's stored power to power the car during those times when the alternator isn't loading the engine. Unfortunately, that means that the battery typically won't get a full charge and will sit somewhere largely under 80% charged. For a lead acid battery, that's not good for longevity as the battery likes to be fully charged all of the time and the longer it's not fully charged, the more capacity it loses over time unless the battery is fully charged with an external charger every few months.

    So, by starting with a larger battery, it will just mean that it will take a few more months, maybe a year, before the issues start happening with that new larger battery. This point has been tried and verified in other Subaru forums - ie new larger batteries suffer the same fate as the OE supplied battery but just after a bit more service life.

  7. #15
    Senior Member CRAZYHAWK's Avatar
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    I found that adding

    https://www.walmart.com/ip/Charge-It...iABEgJ1ovD_BwE

    helps the battery last a long time.
    2016 Crosstrek Limited Crystal White / Black leather
    (GRD - 23) Moonroof Package W/Navigation/Eyesight
    Auto-dim Mirror/Homelink + Alarm/shock sensor + Side moldings

    Polk Audio DB651 front speakers + de Auto Key 5000k HID kit
    Alla Lighting LED backup 921 800 Lumen
    Philips 9011 HIR1 Diode Dynamics XML2 5000k Fog Lights
    SpyTec A118-C Dash Cam

  8. #16
    Senior Member djriful's Avatar
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    If you have winter cold weather, I stick with AGM. Lead Acid doesn't cut it even my battery is at max distilled water line. My remote start didn't even budge.

  9. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by djriful View Post
    If you have winter cold weather, I stick with AGM. Lead Acid doesn't cut it even my battery is at max distilled water line. My remote start didn't even budge.
    3rd party remote starter?

  10. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by rlouie View Post
    A larger battery will only 'kick the can further down the road' but it won't take care of the can.

    Most newer cars, and the Crosstrek is no exception, have smart/eco-friendly alternators in an effort to save gas by limiting how often the alternator is loading the engine (think A/C compressor) and using the battery's stored power to power the car during those times when the alternator isn't loading the engine. Unfortunately, that means that the battery typically won't get a full charge and will sit somewhere largely under 80% charged. For a lead acid battery, that's not good for longevity as the battery likes to be fully charged all of the time and the longer it's not fully charged, the more capacity it loses over time unless the battery is fully charged with an external charger every few months.

    So, by starting with a larger battery, it will just mean that it will take a few more months, maybe a year, before the issues start happening with that new larger battery. This point has been tried and verified in other Subaru forums - ie new larger batteries suffer the same fate as the OE supplied battery but just after a bit more service life.
    But kicking the can down the road = a longer duration between battery replacements. However, I agree with what you are saying.. in that another way to address "dead" battery issues is to make sure its charge is maintained through other means than just the alternator.. But a larger battery would also help address this issue but having more CCA than a smaller battery at the same percentage of battery capacity.

    My understanding was the same as yours on the eco-friendly alternator.. However, watching the battery voltage on my idatalink maestro OBD headunit feed has led me to believe differently. As well as something I read in a Subaru doc. I rarely, if ever see the battery voltage drop below 13.3, very often ~ 14 volts. I read a Subaru doc that was saying originally, the alternator of my 2014 could be configured with different levels of "aggressiveness" for alternator output, however, the doc said that in North America, using a reduced output results in DRL output that is too low for some national standards, and so they hard-coded the alternator to high output.. If I get a chance Ill try to find that doc in my stash.

  11. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by DallasJW View Post
    But kicking the can down the road = a longer duration between battery replacements. However, I agree with what you are saying.. in that another way to address "dead" battery issues is to make sure its charge is maintained through other means than just the alternator.. But a larger battery would also help address this issue but having more CCA than a smaller battery at the same percentage of battery capacity.

    My understanding was the same as yours on the eco-friendly alternator.. However, watching the battery voltage on my idatalink maestro OBD headunit feed has led me to believe differently. As well as something I read in a Subaru doc. I rarely, if ever see the battery voltage drop below 13.3, very often ~ 14 volts. I read a Subaru doc that was saying originally, the alternator of my 2014 could be configured with different levels of "aggressiveness" for alternator output, however, the doc said that in North America, using a reduced output results in DRL output that is too low for some national standards, and so they hard-coded the alternator to high output.. If I get a chance Ill try to find that doc in my stash.
    There seems to be two camps when it comes to the voltage readings when driving - one that sees those low voltages and ones that don't. Subaru has hardwired in various things that will trigger the high output mode of the alternator so if those conditions exist, the voltage drop won't be seen. It's possible that how we drive (or more accurately, what conditions/situations we drive in) will have a bearing on what we see. For example, some people love to drive with the headlights on regardless of the time of day and I suspect that will force the alternator to have a higher output.

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