2016 Crosstrek Limited With New Sound System

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Thread: 2016 Crosstrek Limited With New Sound System

  1. #1

    2016 Crosstrek Limited With New Sound System

    I upgraded the shitty factory system with 4 kickers and a 12 in bazooka base cannon powered by a 2000w pioneer amp. The biggest thing I noticed while the sound really good. I also installed the dynamat in it as well. What i did notice was the acceleration. Now when I do soft or hard acceleration it sounds like I have this fake like turbo sound. Like when someone hits the turbo yet i don't have turbo. Just seems a bit under powered now ..

    Now i did hear that the Crosstrek is underpowered a bit anyway from what i have read and seen. But i am wondering if this sound system is pulling a bit too much power or if there is something i can do. The noise isn't that bothersome. Almost kinda cool like I have a turbo which i don't.

    What i did notice was that I've only had the system in about 2 months now and about 2 weeks ago i blew a fews the connection where the power cable connects to the batter for the amp had gone bad. I was told it was a defected fuse assembly so that was easy fixed. But when this happen of course the turbo sound went away. Yet I think during the time I was without amp and sound system i did notice what seem to be a bit more power accelerating .. So I am not sure if its related or what.

    Oh left factory head unit just speaker upgrade and amp. I kinda didn't mind the nav factory that was in there.
    See pictures



    IMG_8043.jpgIMG_8587.jpg
    IMG_8516.jpgIMG_8038.jpgIMG_8033.jpg
    Last edited by sobeservices2; 04-17-2017 at 09:10 PM. Reason: adding additional pictures

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  3. #2
    I'm by no means an audio expert. But in my experience, that whistling noise your hearing is most likely interference into your RCA cables. Typically this occurs because during an amp install because the RCA wires are run right along side the power wire to the amp. At least that's what seamed to cause it when I've gotten that noise. I ended up running the power and RCA on different sides of the car. You could also look for RCA cables with more shielding.

  4. #3
    Thank. I am not sure how its run but I will have to look again but I am pretty sure the speaker wires ran from the back to the front on the passenger side and the drivers side only has the power cable. Might have to look for some thicker RCA cables to.

    What about the reduction in power. I noticed a slight lost of acceleration power. I know the car is slightly under power according to what i've heard.

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  6. #4

  7. #5
    Senior Member CRAZYHAWK's Avatar
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    He might be picking up the ignition signals and amplifying them.


    Quote Originally Posted by Moopey View Post
    I'm by no means an audio expert. But in my experience, that whistling noise your hearing is most likely interference into your RCA cables. Typically this occurs because during an amp install because the RCA wires are run right along side the power wire to the amp. At least that's what seamed to cause it when I've gotten that noise. I ended up running the power and RCA on different sides of the car. You could also look for RCA cables with more shielding.
    2016 Crosstrek Limited Crystal White / Black leather
    (GRD - 23) Moonroof Package W/Navigation/Eyesight
    Auto-dim Mirror/Homelink + Alarm/shock sensor + Side moldings

    Polk Audio DB651 front speakers + de Auto Key 5000k HID kit
    Alla Lighting LED backup 921 800 Lumen
    Philips 9011 HIR1 SpyTec A118-C Dash Cam

  8. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by sobeservices2 View Post
    I did notice this a capacitor but i am guessing it won't do too much for me plus i have no idea where I would hide it . https://www.crutchfield.com/S-HWhqSC...itors/faq.html
    From what I remember from my younger days, adding a capacitor to a sound system would alleviate problems like dimming lights when the bass from a large amp/woofer would kick in since the draw would be taken from the capacitor rather than the vehicles electrical system.

    I don't know if it would solve an acceleration issue. I don't know enough about vehicles to know if the resistance on your alternator pulley varies with the load put on the alternator.

  9. #7
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    I would highly advise using a capacitor on a system with a 2000w amp. Your alternators voltage regulating rectifier will eventually blow due to the overload.

    As for the noise, I concur with the other findings--use a higher shielded cable.

    For the acceleration issue.. Try doing a controlled test if you can--with the amp powered and with it not powered.

    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

  10. #8
    How would I do that test ? is there a place that can do it? Someone told me auto zone or advance auto parts can do test on alternator test. What do i ask for ?

  11. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by sobeservices2 View Post
    How would I do that test ? is there a place that can do it? Someone told me auto zone or advance auto parts can do test on alternator test. What do i ask for ?
    I was saying disconnect the amp and take a drive. Is it possible the acceleration issue is in your head and not really happening? That's what I meant by a controlled test.

    as for checking your alternator output--disconnect the amp, use a voltmeter(fluke or a no name brand) and check the voltages across the battery at idle and also when the car is above 3000 rpms. Now hook the amp back up and check voltages again the same way. If its lower, it means your stressing your charging system and will destroy the battery and/or the alternator. You may not see any difference, which may still be taking a toll on your charging system.

    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

  12. #10
    Now if it is lower or maybe no difference should i do a battery upgrade ? or alternator ? or both? some said a capacitor might be sufficient to . Thanks for taking the time by the way

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