Upgrading audio (non-kicker), and sound deadening -- looking for advice.

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Thread: Upgrading audio (non-kicker), and sound deadening -- looking for advice.

  1. #1
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    Upgrading audio (non-kicker), and sound deadening -- looking for advice.

    Hi all,

    2016 premium, love everything about this car except when I have to drive for more than 10 minutes and the head unit functionality with my iPhone and speakers drive me crazy! I can't comprehend how such garbage was put into a modern car -- so I'm going to change it.

    First order is to replace the head unit. I'm looking to install a 4200NEX -- going to have a custom wiring harness made so I can easily have my rear camera and console USB work, as well as a Maestro RR steering wheel adapter. This 4200 will work well with the 2 channel pioneer d800 amp I plan to install under either the drivers or passenger seat.

    Next is the speakers. Looking at Hertz HSK 6.5 components, planning on hiding the passives behind the dash if I can, otherwise in the door. With the amp I'm obviously going to need to run new wiring.

    Lastly I'm going to do some sound deadening, a combination of damplifier as well as mass loaded vinyl.

    My questions:

    1: does anyone know if it's possible to run RCA inputs to the amp and then front speakers, and have the regular wiring from the HU power the rears? I'm not really interested in replacing the rears, at least right now, because i never have rear passengers; however, I've read not all head units will let you use both wires and RCAs.

    2: anybody know a good place to get a custom wiring harness made?

    3: anyone have any info on the front speaker mounting depth and speaker hole diameter? The HSK is a large 6.5 and I'm trying to figure out if there's even enough space to fit it -- I'll obviously need an Mounting ring to give myself more depth.

    4: anyone have experience mounting larger tweeters? Will they fit well in the stock location, or do they need to be mounted on the pillar? I'd rather keep them in the stock location just for a cleaner look, although understand this might now be possible with a bigger 1" tweeter.

    5: where's the best bang for your buck locations for deadening? I'm not feeling up for taking the seats and carpet off and doing the floor, so I'm leaning towards just the 4 doors; however, if anybody has any experience with other locations that significantly reduced road and/or engine noise then I'd love to hear.

    I think that's it, thanks for any help!

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  3. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by diggMINN View Post

    My questions:

    1: does anyone know if it's possible to run RCA inputs to the amp and then front speakers, and have the regular wiring from the HU power the rears? I'm not really interested in replacing the rears, at least right now, because i never have rear passengers; however, I've read not all head units will let you use both wires and RCAs.
    That should be possible but you might have some funkiness with the fader and/or balance controls.
    Quote Originally Posted by diggMINN View Post
    2: anybody know a good place to get a custom wiring harness made?
    Depends on how custom and what exactly you need. There's at least two people I know who can make custom harnesses for Subaru but they might not have the connectors for your new HU so you might have to supply those as well as a wiring diagram.

    Quote Originally Posted by diggMINN View Post
    3: anyone have any info on the front speaker mounting depth and speaker hole diameter? The HSK is a large 6.5 and I'm trying to figure out if there's even enough space to fit it -- I'll obviously need an Mounting ring to give myself more depth.
    Have a look at my thread on mounting Polk 6.5". I have a few pics as well as a link or two for mounting rings (angled ones to boot). - Best Buy - Polk DXi650 6.5" Speakers - $39.99 (60% off) - Free Shipping

    Quote Originally Posted by diggMINN View Post
    4: anyone have experience mounting larger tweeters? Will they fit well in the stock location, or do they need to be mounted on the pillar? I'd rather keep them in the stock location just for a cleaner look, although understand this might now be possible with a bigger 1" tweeter.
    There's a thread on DIY tweeters which may help you out - The $20 tweeter upgrade!
    Quote Originally Posted by diggMINN View Post
    5: where's the best bang for your buck locations for deadening? I'm not feeling up for taking the seats and carpet off and doing the floor, so I'm leaning towards just the 4 doors; however, if anybody has any experience with other locations that significantly reduced road and/or engine noise then I'd love to hear.

    I think that's it, thanks for any help!
    Doors, hatch door, hatch quarter panels, hatch floor (spare tire) as well as the roof area of the hatch.

  4. #3
    Senior Member CRAZYHAWK's Avatar
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    Check with

    Subaru radio and radio wiring harness information

    for a custom harness.
    2016 Crosstrek Limited Crystal White / Black leather
    (GRD - 23) Moonroof Package W/Navigation/Eyesight
    Auto-dim Mirror/Homelink + Alarm/shock sensor + Side moldings

    Polk Audio DB651 front speakers + de Auto Key 5000k HID kit
    Alla Lighting LED backup 921 800 Lumen
    Philips 9011 HIR1 SpyTec A118-C Dash Cam

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    Quote Originally Posted by rlouie View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by diggMINN View Post

    My questions:

    1: does anyone know if it's possible to run RCA inputs to the amp and then front speakers, and have the regular wiring from the HU power the rears? I'm not really interested in replacing the rears, at least right now, because i never have rear passengers; however, I've read not all head units will let you use both wires and RCAs.
    That should be possible but you might have some funkiness with the fader and/or balance controls.
    Quote Originally Posted by diggMINN View Post
    2: anybody know a good place to get a custom wiring harness made?
    Depends on how custom and what exactly you need. There's at least two people I know who can make custom harnesses for Subaru but they might not have the connectors for your new HU so you might have to supply those as well as a wiring diagram.

    Quote Originally Posted by diggMINN View Post
    3: anyone have any info on the front speaker mounting depth and speaker hole diameter? The HSK is a large 6.5 and I'm trying to figure out if there's even enough space to fit it -- I'll obviously need an Mounting ring to give myself more depth.
    Have a look at my thread on mounting Polk 6.5". I have a few pics as well as a link or two for mounting rings (angled ones to boot). - Best Buy - Polk DXi650 6.5" Speakers - $39.99 (60% off) - Free Shipping

    Quote Originally Posted by diggMINN View Post
    4: anyone have experience mounting larger tweeters? Will they fit well in the stock location, or do they need to be mounted on the pillar? I'd rather keep them in the stock location just for a cleaner look, although understand this might now be possible with a bigger 1" tweeter.
    There's a thread on DIY tweeters which may help you out - The $20 tweeter upgrade!
    Quote Originally Posted by diggMINN View Post
    5: where's the best bang for your buck locations for deadening? I'm not feeling up for taking the seats and carpet off and doing the floor, so I'm leaning towards just the 4 doors; however, if anybody has any experience with other locations that significantly reduced road and/or engine noise then I'd love to hear.

    I think that's it, thanks for any help!
    Doors, hatch door, hatch quarter panels, hatch floor (spare tire) as well as the roof area of the hatch.
    2: I figured I'd need to do that -- I really just want to maintain my arm rest USB outlet functionality, backup camera, and have it wired up to plug-in the steering wheel adapter.

    5: Any idea on a ballpark of how much dampener and MLV one would need to complete all that?

    Thanks for the links! My only concern is that the hertz is going to be considerably bigger both in height and width compared to the Polk, and I'm curious how much room in front of the speaker there is to play with before it hits the door panel.

    Thanks for the help!

  7. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by diggMINN View Post
    2: I figured I'd need to do that -- I really just want to maintain my arm rest USB outlet functionality, backup camera, and have it wired up to plug-in the steering wheel adapter.

    5: Any idea on a ballpark of how much dampener and MLV one would need to complete all that?

    Thanks for the links! My only concern is that the hertz is going to be considerably bigger both in height and width compared to the Polk, and I'm curious how much room in front of the speaker there is to play with before it hits the door panel.

    Thanks for the help!
    Actually not that much. According to many sites, you don't need complete coverage of the dampening material (I like to refer to it as 'Dynamat-like' so that others will know what I'm talking about) - only about 25% coverage that is correctly placed - ie. away from any bends and as close to centre of large flat areas of sheet metal as possible. This should save a significant amount of weight. I've actually placed the dampening material on the door cards instead of the door metal so that condensation and rain water that gets into the doors themselves have a straight path out of the door. I did the doors, hatch quarter panels, and hatch door with 10 sq. ft of dampening material. For the MLV, I would estimate about 45 to 50 sq. ft. depending on thickness and if you want to put a couple of extra layers in certain places. I would also recommend that you put some closed cell foam in as well.

    There's a lot of room in the door especially once you factor in the angled mounting bracket.

  8. #6
    Large tweeters will fit fine in the stock location. I bought 1" silk domes and after prying open the grill, wished I bought much larger tweets. You could fit tweeters at least double the size of my 1" polk tweeters. I believe DB1001 is the model of tweeters I have if you want to look up dimensions for reference. Not sure how big your crossovers are for your component kit, but they may fit under the tweeters. There's a small rectangular compartment beneath each tweeter.

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    Check out www.sounddeadenershowdown.com they show you how to measure so you know how much of each product you will need. And I also recommend some closed cell foam to decouple the mlv.

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    Any suggestions on where to buy dampener and MLV for a reasonable price? I'm in Michigan if anybody knows of a more local source.

  11. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by diggMINN View Post
    Any suggestions on where to buy dampener and MLV for a reasonable price? I'm in Michigan if anybody knows of a more local source.
    Dampener is actually fairly cheap over the internet as there are a lot of 'similar' products out there so you'll just have to find one you like. I like to use anything that has a lot of butyl (which cost a bit more) than the cheaper asphalt based stuff as I don't want any off gassing if the weather turns hot. If you are going to do the 25% coverage thing, then get the packages that come in 1 sq ft sheets as they are easier to manage and you are going to cutting them into small pieces anyways. I used one pack of GT Mats Onyx product - https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Dead...&keywords=onyx.

    MLV is a much harder product to get a hold of at a reasonable quantity and a good price. I still haven't really found one. Shipping is a killer and you often have to buy a large roll.

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    Awesome, I'll be on the look out.

    I've been trying to read through previous threads but can't find a concensus on this:

    For most aftermarket HUs, have people been able to:

    1) Maintain function of their rearview camera, without running new wiring to the back?

    2) Maintain use of the aux/usb in the center console? I've heard some people having issues with this. How hard would it be to just run a USB extension from the rear USBs on the HU to the center console?

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