The $20 tweeter upgrade! - Page 4

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Thread: The $20 tweeter upgrade!

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brendenv View Post
    Yea I get what the capacitor is for. Sorry my question was vague. What uf do I need for the capacitor? The ones I got are rated at 3500-20000hz at 4 ohms. They are polypropylene apparently.
    Depends where you want the lows to be cut off at.... Most speakers don't do well (ie. distortion) at the ends of the rated frequency range so I wouldn't send anything below 5/6,000 Hz to that tweeter.

    Have a look at this handy dandy guide for sizing - Car Audio - Speaker Crossover Chart and Capacitance vs. Frequency Calculator(High-pass)

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  3. #32
    Quote Originally Posted by rlouie View Post
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    Sorry, I posted from my phone and the mobile site did not allow me to use the quote function so it looked like pure spam while in truth it was intended as sage advice.

    I hate that some posts look like I am spamming but the fact is that buying the right brackets are the best solution, and there happens to be no other bracket for that particular purpose. There are other options for door speaker brackets but let's face it- having used several I am not in the mindset to make a recommendation for something that I would not put in my own car. The link above happens to reflect what are (IMO) the best option.

  4. #33
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    Great ideas in this thread. No point wasting money when you can mod your OEM speakers. The stock speakers are worth less than most adapters.

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  6. #34
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    Hi I just bought a 2016 Subaru Crosstrek sport and I was in the middle of installing some new front speakers.... Hertz k 165, it's a two way system. So I got the front door speaker wired up. I was moving on to the tweeters and I was getting ready to sodder them in but I wasn't sure what wires were positive so I was cursing threw the forum trying to find which wires were the positive and negative, and I came across this thread. So now I found these tweeters will wreck my stock deck....

    I'm really bad at understanding electrical, I'm just a dumb bricklayer. Can some one please give me a link to amazon for the capacitor I need please.

    18471369_10154336780772447_795174083_n.jpg
    Also do I sodder one to the negative and the positive? Before or after the black thing or do I just totally get ride of the black thing?

    Can you please help me I don't want to wreck my new crossover.

  7. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by blair99 View Post
    Hi I just bought a 2016 Subaru Crosstrek sport and I was in the middle of installing some new front speakers.... Hertz k 165, it's a two way system. So I got the front door speaker wired up. I was moving on to the tweeters and I was getting ready to sodder them in but I wasn't sure what wires were positive so I was cursing threw the forum trying to find which wires were the positive and negative, and I came across this thread. So now I found these tweeters will wreck my stock deck....

    I'm really bad at understanding electrical, I'm just a dumb bricklayer. Can some one please give me a link to amazon for the capacitor I need please.

    [iurl="http://www.subaruxvforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=229698&d=1494975218"]The  tweeter upgrade!-18471369_10154336780772447_795174083_n.jpg[/iurl]
    Also do I sodder one to the negative and the positive? Before or after the black thing or do I just totally get ride of the black thing?

    Can you please help me I don't want to wreck my new crossover.
    Why are you splicing any wires associated with the crossovers? You have a crossover. 2 wires (one positive, one negative) go to the mid. 2 wires go to the tweeter. Nothing else is needed. Adding any additional capacitors will change the properties of the signal sent to the speakers. You don't want that - Hertz designed the crossover to do everything without additional complexity.

  8. #36
    Senior Member coletrain's Avatar
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    Yeah blair99, you just need to connect the black to the neg and the red to the pos and keep the black thing. That's assuming you ran new wires from the "box" that came with the hertz speakers to the tweeters... I looked at the instruction manual online and you run the wires going to the stock door speakers to the hertz box. from the box (which should be a crossover network) you run wires to the door speaker and tweeter. The "black thing" you speak of is a inline capacitor for your tweeter that is acting as its crossover or high pass filter/bass blocker. Keep it. You need no other components than what you bought. Manual: http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/wp-co...al_Rev16B5.pdf

  9. #37
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    ok I was worried I thought because the stock tweeters were 6 ohms and the and the new ones were 4 ohms that was a bad thing. I'm confused when you say box.....? I wired the door speakers to the stock wires. I found the right polarity from another thread speaker wire polarity.

    I'm not running a new wires for the tweeters I was just going to clip off the connector from the stock tweeters and then sodder the wires together because I don't have those 2-Count Splice Wire Connectors.
    But I'm not sure what the polarity is to the old tweeters because it's a different color then the doors, and it's not in the manual that I see.

  10. #38
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    So do you know the polarity of the factory wiring for the tweeters ?

    The driver side is red with a yellow stripe and black with a white stripe

    The passenger side is red and brown with a white stripe

  11. #39
    Senior Member CRAZYHAWK's Avatar
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    High frequency polarity is not as critical low. High frequency has short wave length, low frequency has long wave length.

    Quote Originally Posted by blair99 View Post
    So do you know the polarity of the factory wiring for the tweeters ?

    The driver side is red with a yellow stripe and black with a white stripe

    The passenger side is red and brown with a white stripe
    Last edited by CRAZYHAWK; 05-19-2017 at 09:13 PM.
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  12. #40
    Senior Member coletrain's Avatar
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    The "box" I mentioned is the one that came with the speaker set that I saw in the instruction manual. If your set did not come with that, then disregard. maybe I looked at the wrong page.

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