Ok. Here is the full report. I would encourage you all to try a can of the Liqui Moly Ceratec -- it seems to make the engine sound more refined/quieter -- AND the wear numbers were below average.

Click on the blue link to download and open full size report.

View attachment XV UOA 4 2015 pdf.pdf

 

Ok - well that really didn't work -- can't see the image. Any guidance on how to attach the report in life size?

 

Too small to read. Make sure you are linking the full pic and not just a thumbnail. A sound meter on the engine with and without the additive will show whether a sound difference is a placebo result or a measurable result. It really isn't needed for longevity.

 

Ok - I think if you click on the link to XV UOA 4 2015 pdf.pdf, above you should be able to download and review the full report. Someone else will need to do the sound meter test -- as I already added Ceratec about 6,000 miles ago and Liqui Moly states it is good for 30,000 miles.

I also tried to do a UOA on the prior oil change with M1 EP, but Blackstone advised they never received, even though sent via USPS priority mail.

 

The idea that moly coats the parts and stays between oil changes is fallacy. You don't need oil additives.

 

Generally agree and haven't used oil additives before. Not here to argue -- just to report that it does seem to quiet the buzzy engine noise. But, maybe going to a 0W30 would do so as well. Did not buy it for the "protection," but the wear numbers look good. In looking at other UOAs from the original factory fill it looks like Subaru is using high moly in the initial factory fill.

Also, I don't think Liqui Moly is claiming the moly is the benefit in the Ceratec, but rather boron nitride -- but you can get all that back on forth on B.I.T.O.G. forums and the Liqui Moly website if you are interested as to their claims. I'm not able to evaluate the claims one way or another.

Would be interested in others who decide to take the $25.00 plunge to try the Ceratec. If you don't want to try it that is your right -- but don't think Liqui Moly is a fly by night company -- indeed they are well respected German oil company.

 

Would be interested in others who decide to take the $25.00 plunge to try the Ceratec. If you don't want to try it that is your right -- but don't think Liqui Moly is a fly by night company -- indeed they are well respected German oil company.

For anyone who takes the plunge, I would suggest that you do an oil change, measure the sound levels at start up, and then let the engine warm up to operating temperature before measuring it again. Once that's done, add the additive, and run the engine to mix the stuff in, and then let the car cool off overnight. In the morning do the same measurements as you did with just the oil (once cold and once when warm) to see if there is a difference.

 

Yes, and run it about 100 miles too when you first put it in. My understanding is that it takes heat and pressure to anneal to the surfaces. And don't change your oil for about 3 to 5,000 miles after you add the Ceratec.

 

I'm thinking of putting in a can of Ceratec at the next oil change. Anyone else use this regularly?

 

Ceratec may not be the best for new engine, it makes engine quieter but for gasoline engine it risk spark plug fouling. Liquimoly suggest for new car to use their new molygen motor protect.

 

I’ve been using zmax with my oil change for years, and hundreds of thousands of miles. I have a 16 Trek with 57k on it. I’ve used it since break in, and do oil changes every 6 k. Full synthetic on all vehicles. Had an 04 Mazda 3, and took it to 240 k with no oil usage whatsoever. Maybe topped off with a half a quart of oil in all those miles. I’ve never had an oil analysis, and don’t plan on it.


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back in the day it was STP and then Slick 50. automotive snake oil

 

In olden days we would put the dipstick oil we were testing between our bare fingers and rub gently. If this left gouges/cuts in your fingertips it was time to change the oil or add just a bit of sawdust. If pulling the dipstick out to check level was becoming difficult and the dipstick would be sucked back into the crankcase by remarkably elastic used "oil" without gravity assist then I would reduce number of cans of STP oil additive per week. Another test was to hold a powerful magnet above the oil fill plug and if this would draw the used oil out into the air as a thick viscous snake you might think of new oil or adding a bottle of Rislone (came in beautiful blue or green shades.) Finally, if you could drive the car without an oil pan or drain plug then it was time to replace the oil although the car was sure quiet and that was nice.

As for Slick 50, we didn't start seeing the real miracle oil additives until the late '70s.